Cub Cadet Collectors dot com

Moved to the "Coffee Shop" for better visibility.  Welcome Mat is for newbies but Scott is an old timer! Good to see you back Scott.  I doubt we'll get the heydays back, but is what it is.  I'm as guilty as anyone, just busy with other stuff.  Still have all three Cubs I've had for years, ...

Good stuff Ken.  I like how you did this one, built like it was but with more reliable innards.  Covering components with the old paper tubes seems a waste of time to me, nobody can see them anyway.  You're preserving the build and functionality but making it more reliable.

Richard, the bottom drain plug is located in the center of the round cutout sheet metal underneath, pointing straight down.  It sounds like you are indeed on the bottom drain plug I mentioned.  Although the factory plug might have been square as Steve shows, someone could have easily replaced with a...

Hey D2, nice to see you.

Yeah, I missed that, nice catch.  Definitely need to remove the mule drive if you want to access the center drain plug.  Good catch.

It's not but a few minutes to remove and reinstall mule drive, no reason to have in your way.

No, not necessary to open more than one, although depending on the angle of the machine, you might get slightly more out of one than another.  If using the front plug under the pto, I'd drive the rear tires onto 2x4 blocks, but that's splitting hairs as compared to committing to regular oil changes....

Do they have one in the middle underneath like the Magnum 18?  That's the one I find most convenient.  It's just a pipe plug in the middle of the bottom of the crankcase, might be easy to miss if it's a flush plug covered with dirt.

Hi Steve, Hope you've been well!

Wow, that's not a good look to build brand loyalty.  Some companies just don't get it.

Greg, Welcome!  We're a smaller group now, posts might be a few days between discussion, but please stick around and post!  We need some fresh energy here, forums in general just don't get much activity with the advent of Facebook.  "Cub Cadets and Shooting the Breeze" is the main forum fo...

Wow, that is very cool.  I only have dual hydraulics on my 1872, therefore it is my dedicated Haban blade tractor.  Love that power angle. My loader 2182 never sees a center attachment, so it's hydraulics are by definition dedicated to the Cat 0 three point hitch. My other 2182 is dedicated to mowin...

Ah, I forgot about that restriction.  Designed to discourage spammers that join just to get a list of emails.  I'll send Steve a PM.

Hopefully this thread will get your post count up, give you full access!
  

David - Top right of the header bar is "Private Messages".  I suggest messaging him, but ask him to reply in this thread so we can all play along.

Yes, Steve had a good thread about doing it.  I'm not sure he can answer your exact questions, but hopefully he visits this thread soon with some pointers.  I expect he can provide some insight, even if he doesn't have specific water-cooled model details. I have two 2182s myself.  I'd say you'll nee...

Tom, I see what you did there.......more traction LOL :D I'm ashamed... I generally hate puns!  I typed it without thinking about it, saw it was a pun and just let if fly anyway. :roll: Caleb - Rough running is probably a somewhat clogged carb and old gas from sitting.  If it runs ok once you get i...

Caleb, Welcome!

I've moved your post to the forum for IH built machines, should get some more traction there.

Tom

Hi Rick.  Before you go to the trouble of removing the choke cable, first try the penetrating oil all over the outside of that rusted exposed area.  Loosen the fastening bolt at the engine and get it all exposed.  Apply the penetrating oil not just to the end of the inner cable, but to the entire ex...

Hi John, Welcome! That absolutely sounds like a safety switch.  I had a 2000 series at my parents years ago, long gone, but I think I remember enough to possibly help. There would be a safety switch for the brake, and for the seat.  The tractor shouldn't fire at all if it were the brake safety switc...

Ken, Glad it worked out!  I'd been wondering how you're fairing this year. As I mentioned in the other thread, I mounted my blower for the first time in years, but the first threatened "big one" went south of us.  We ended up with just less than 4". More forecast for midweek here and ...

Kevin, the same happened for me a few weeks ago.  We were supposed to get the "big one", around 12".  I put on the 450 blower for the first time in years.  The storm really did produce, but the big snow went south.  I ended up using the blower on 3" that I could have easily pushe...

I have actually just been using the 450 with my large pulley 2182 tractor.  (I have one with a large pto, one with the small.)  Yes, I know it's not correct, but I've gotten away with it.  These blowers can tend to pack up and the higher speed can help keep them clear.  On the downside, it's easier ...

Hi Jerry, Welcome. The manual shows it pretty good.  Similar to a mower deck, the belt runs down from the blower pulley to a set of mule pulleys, then back up vertically to the pto.  "Documents and Manuals" button is always at the top of every page of this site, 451 manual is under Attachm...

Yeah, the problem with hosting is that I've been pigging out for days!  I'll be having another piece of pumpkin pie here in a few minutes! 

Ken, now you need to find something cool to power with it!  The fan and generator are both neat, I'm not sure what else to suggest.

I'm a bit late, but hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving!

Man, I'm bad.  I've had a few things I could have posted, but I've been lazy.  I'll try to get to it now that the weather is taking a turn.

dag, you have it the wrong way round... The water based cleaners (like Steve and you are using) are hard on paint and steel.  I'm using the real mineral oil based parts cleaner stuff (very similar to kerosene), but the parts washer specific fluid is higher flash point.  The higher flash point reduce...

Hi Steve.  I used real solvent from day one, so mine looks brand new, minty fresh.  Same solvent since the beginning of this thread, no noticeable evaporation.  I've done zero maintenance.  It sits there ready to use, always plugged in and ready to go.  One of the best tool additions I've every made.

Ken, very cool, thanks for sharing.

So, it appears the whole tank/base is cast iron, or is that aluminum?  Anyway, very cool, keep the thread going and show us the final result.  Running, of course!  Even cooler if you have some implement to run with it.

D2, I really believe you're overthinking this, creating a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.  When I've used my 1872 hard, I've never detected any issues of overheating due to the side covers installed.   The Kohler fan blows the cooling air through the engine tins from the driveshaft area w...

Gary, that is a "pushrod", not a connecting rod.  A connecting rod is what "connects" the piston to the crank.  When a connecting rod is involved, it generally breaks and it is catastrophic, generally destroys the block, hence Big Mike's questioning that as a failure. So, stuck v...

Gary - Great news, glad it's been saved with minimal cost! I'd recommend using this "scare" to encourage better maintenance going forward. Regularly check the oil and top off as needed. Regular oil changes at factory recommended intervals (I think it's every 50 hours if I remember correctl...

Beautiful!  Congratulations!  The repaint appears to have been done very nicely. Also, just my opinion, I wouldn't consider replacing that engine with a Command.  Even if it was a Series I, there's no reason to replace an engine that's running great.  If it's a Series II, I'd be especially content w...