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Try isolating the problem a little more. Hook your jumper cables (pos to "A" terminal on S/G, the other end to your running truck) loose neg jumper cable end to one of the S/G mounting bolts (don't attach the pos cable directly to the threads on the "A" terminal). If the S/G turns the engine as it s...

I'm pretty sure you will find that there is no neutral safety switch (or any other kind of safety switch) on the 1X2/3 series tractors. You say that it "won't fire". To me, that means the engine turns over but the plug doesn't fire... Does the engine turn over with the key? If it does, turn the key ...

Your timeline is exactly right. The situation (as I see it) is, the cast end deck that you are wanting to use IS the correct deck for your 122. The problem is that I don't believe they ever made a QA cast end deck. Meaning, that they all had the crappy eye bolts on the front and "pin on" hangers in ...

Try going to Partstree.com and look up your model number tractor, they have exploded views and part numbers of everything on your machine.

JMotuzick wrote:my memory is saying the same thing so you must be close!

Good, we must be right then.

I didn't want later to suddenly think that I dreamed all that...

IIRC, with the engine running 1/2 throttle (or more) you should get 28+ volts A/C at the two outside wires on the V/R and around 13.7 volts D/C from the center wire to ground. I think the stator should read .065 to .095 ohms, when unplugged and the engine not running. If you have 28+ volts A/C on th...

LMAO! I hafta say, calling a 3 point, a sleeve hitch, makes me crazy as well.

I'll bet those people don't call their favorite coffee by the wrong name when ordering at the local coffee house.

Congratulations on your 1000th. post.

There is either dirt in the needle and seat, or the needle and seat are worn out, or the float leaks and is sunk in the bowl, or there is corrosion on the float hinge and the float is simply rusted fast and can not push the needle into the seat. It would be best to rebuild the carburetor, soak it in...

Thanks Dave, I'll paste that number in with my other resources and nose around for the best price.

I'm all about saving a buck when I can.

So i just looked it up.... you always replace both races at 5.13 each... so thats 10.26... the complete kit is 10.86.... 60 cents for 2 bearings :o I have been paying about $3.00 each for the cups/races on an internet site, the last "kit" that I bought (from the green dealer) was $32.72 I don't fin...

The options alone were probably worth more than what u paid.....i hope :lol: Nice find! Please understand that real "deals" don't come my way very often, most of the time I end up paying "list + 10%" I guess it was jut my turn. Thanks Lew Grabbed a rebuilt carb off the shelf and put it on, gas tank...

Saw this on Craigslist yesterday (one of those ones with no price listed). Called the guy and got him nailed down to a price and told him I'd like to come look at it today. His wife called me back in a few minutes and asked if I could come get it now, she said she wanted it out of her front yard. I ...

Right on all counts Mike. The Narrow Frames can be somewhat difficult to work on, but getting in there once every 20 years, is better than owning some of this new junk on the market. I also agree about the costs of Older Parts, it is highway robbery, the only positive is that it's just one step bett...

I've heard other people say that when they got their gear box apart, the balls and spacers looked ok and they didn't replace then. This may be true, but I've never rebuilt a column that didn't need new spacers, often times the spacers have worn away to almost nothing. Right, wrong or otherwise, when...

Here are the instructions that you need. http://www.cubcadetcollectors.com/manuals/main.php?g2_itemId=9667 There are no holes in the frame to mount the pump bracket, you will have to drill those yourself, location of the holes is in the instructions. I've done this twice, one on a 70 and one on a 10...