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cubcountry wrote:Assholes are everywhere AJ.
Part it out and and sell the parts to the guys on the Colt forum.
Sweet revenge.

Yea, tear it all apart and post a pic. of it for 'em.

It's been for sale ever since the weekend. The guys on the Colt forums are the biggest bunch of assholes i've seen. One guy had me so pissed I almost put a axe through the hood of it and posted a pic. I figured the best way to get even would be to part it out. If I lose money on it, I don't really ...

Thanks Geezer. I am looking for a dash tin for it and was trying to figure out whether I needed a cut out for the amp gauge or not.

I just bought and 1100 Cub Cadet the other day. I got it running good but what I was wondering was: What kind of charging system did they put on the 1100's and did they have an amp gauge?

It will bolt right on from a 126 to a 104. The were only changed when the wide frames came out. A Haban 402D is for narrow frames and a 402E is for a wide frame.

Cookieman wrote:DAYEMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmm someone is PROUD of his carts......

Yea, I thought they were a little high. Probably explains why they've been on there for about a year.

Very nice!! I would like to own an 82 series but I don't know where I'd put it. Try Ebay or Craigslist for a sleeve hitch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-Pull- ... 2565da0a4a Here ya go.

Typical sight.

Yes, you can replace it from the outside. Just slide it over the crankshaft to the correct depth. I just replaced one on my 108. Its not hard.

The Kohler K301 in your 125 is rated to spin at 3600.

The only way you can accurately measure engine speed is with a tachometer. You can buy one off Amazon or a similar site for around $25. Here's the one I bought. It worked good for the price.http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B000EUT9ZS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1299367556&s...

Yea, You might be better off buying a complete used one off Ebay or a parts supplier . Buying PTO clutch parts can get expensive fast from what Ive found.

Try here,http://ccspecialties.org/ptocreepers.html . It comes with the anti-rattle springs,fiber disc,springs and tool.

Oh,I read it as changing starters before it seized.

Geezer,Did it make any kind of an odd noise when it quit? Was it running funny before it died? I would be inclined to agree with Lew it could be the SG. I would think it would be less likely to seize at idle but that could be one of my crazy theories.

That's a really nice 1650. I've always wanted one of those. And I agree with Harry that can't be a 46" deck probably a 44".

Yea, That is standard equipment on the Original. The next series (70 and 100) had dry air cleaners.

Just wanted to let you guys know how the 125 turned out. The problem was the gas tank wasn't vented. Runs beautiful now.

Don't quote me on it but i believe they will work on all narrow frames.

That is very nice condition for being original; somebody must have taken good care of it. Nice find!!

Nice job. That came out great.

Wow, That is amazing.

Unbolting the engine and sliding it ahead is probably the best way.

Welcome back to the forum, Bill.

Will do Vince. Thanks for the input.

vince_o wrote:Levi
I think your heading in he right direction. Hows the throtal shaft bushing?

Terrible, I thought that might be it too.

I just got a Cub Cadet 125 to work on. My problem is it starts hard and stalls under load. It has a sucking sound at the carb, I'm thinking bad valve or head gasket maybe? I'm wondering if that could cause it to stall and start hard both? Thanks in advance.

Like Ken Brothers said, all you have to do is slide the engine ahead. Removal isn't necessary. You should be able to slide the clutch and driveshaft out underneath.

That's Crazy.