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I've heard the thicker discs were for increased horsepower but that's hearsay on my part. Whether you use thick, thin, or double thin discs if the spring is adjusted properly it will be the same in all cases. Any time the pto is gone into it's a good idea to resurface the pressure plates.

roadstar30- The bearing is held on the crank by way of a locking collar. It's NOT pressed on. You may need to use a puller to persuade it off after the locking collar has been released. The collar has a set screw and maybe a nut to help keep the set screw locked. Once the screw is loosened there is ...

All earlier IH cubs were narrow frame tractors. In the early 70s IH started making wide frames and one of the biggest differences was the tunnel cover allowing work to be done to the drive train from above vs underneath. The tunnel cover is the plate right in front of the seat that can be removed ex...

The collar on the basket pulley is rather thick so I recently started using a lot of propane type heat there. I also found that if you can get a bent pry bar behind the BP and all of the way to the crank it will put pressure directly on this collar. I found this out by using it as a last resort but ...

It will bolt right in...no problems. I have one out in the barn I always address as my 108/128. What you will end up with is a 128 bolt for bolt. I bought mine with the k301 already installed by the po. It has the black replacement engine and he just upgraded for a couple more horses.

If you're asking for a pic from me I'm a little confused. What, exactly do you want to see? I have a dirty brake style pto pressure plate with the screws already out. Cleaning and prepping for primer is the next step then I'll resurface both plates. I use a 4"x36" belt sander for that and it does a ...

I agree with what Deepsouthsupply wrote. Patience can be the best tool in this situation. A couple of days ago I had one that I started twisting allen wrenches in so I used a version of Vinces idea and removed the whole package, bearing, collar and all by tapping with a long punch from down by the p...

A couple of months ago I had this situation and after soaking the screws for a day or so I used a propane torch to put heat right at the point of each screw. I didn't heat it red hot; it didn't need it. The screws then came right on out. I had the grill removed with good access to the pto. I figure ...

Dave, Thanks for clearing that up. I'm a wf kinda guy mostly and was thinking that way the whole time. I don't want to mislead anyone either. The sad thing is I have several nf tractors and know the front spindles differ...brain fart. I even have a nice 147 I bought two years ago and haven't had tim...

If you go through the complete front end and clean both spindles/spacers, resize the axle channel, and rebuild the steering box I bet your steering problems will go away. There's probably 30 year old grease all through your steering system. The axle from a wf will work but there's just no real reaso...

And all you had to do was reread the third posting of this thread.

I mentioned the sponsors above but forgot what forum I was on. The kit can be gotten from a Case-International dealership or various online stores that do sponsor cub forums. Chris Westfall, a sponsor sells them and can be contacted at breeze43130@yahoo.com .

Sorry for the mental slip up.

You can get the kit from sponsors above that offer them. You'll need to specify narrow frame or wide frame for the correct kit. While you're at it I'd resurface the pressure plates; it makes a world of difference and the pto will work as it should. Be sure and adjust it properly too. The kit will co...

Lance- It's sort of hard to explain but they are really simple to install and it only takes a few minutes. The "point" of the spring is started from the back side of the slot and curls up and over the tip of the hitch bar. Be sure the bar is in the released position (down). Once they have curled up ...

I had a couple of OEM rods lying around and I'll see if I can locate one. I don't understand the question about the broken/missing rod but like I mentioned, length is pretty critical. The "bend" at the bottom is pretty critical as well for proper, easy function. I've ordered a few of these rods in t...

Vince-

I called a couple of times but never got up with him. I can't remember the details of what happened exactly. If you ever talk to him and he still has it tell him about my interest and give him my number/email address.

Thanks for asking.

The lift rods can be a little tricky to repair but they're rather simple. The push button is suppose to unscrew. I use a pair of pliers because if you use visegrips and there is resistance you can twist the button off which renders a mess. The button has a deep relief area in the middle for the lock...

The cover is removable and the engine has to be out. You may be able to lift the engine a little and get to the two bottom bolts that way but just removing it would be the simplest way. That way you could go ahead and remove the grenade gears. Has the engine been decarboned? While you're doing all o...

Robert- You might need to remove the cam gear cover to check the return spring on the ACR if that is your problem. The shifter has an adjustment under the dash. There is a nylon bushing located on the bottom of the shifter shaft that is squeezed by a small bolt in the bracket. I think the manual cal...

Frank- The chances are with it being an AQS engine it doesn't have balance gears but I'm not saying for sure. Another way I'm told is if the dipstick is located on top of the engine it won't have the gears. In this case the dipstick goes down to the area of where the gears are located. If the dipsti...

It's my understanding the 13 fin K-341s can be bored to 4". The pullers found this out early and that's one reason they are getting a little rare. K-301s have 13 fins but lack the "meat" to be bored that much. This is just hearsay on my part but I've read it more than once in various places.

Tim- If you know for a fact that the engine is leaking oil now would be a good time to at least replace the seals. The hardest part of replacing them is getting to them. Both the flywheel and the basket pulley have to be removed. It's really nice to see a hot engine covered with dry dust after using...

I'd definitely get rid of them. The first gear will come off fairly easily and I've always just crumbled the webbing on the second with a long chisel punch after I get the snap ring off. They crumble easy too. I've never even tried to remove the second one without destroying it first. I've always he...

Yep. I paid close attention to the little holes. I had some new gaskets and did a little pounding on the outer plate. It's all good now. It must have just been the gaskets from the start. She's running strong now.

Thanks again for all of the info.

Thanks for the info. I am now thinking the gaskets were failing maybe because of a warped outer plate. The holes seem to be open and most components are new from about a year ago so that's why this leak is so puzzling.

Is it ok to just reverse the reed? That's the only part I reused.

I just put a second engine in a 129. I had never heard it run and was doing a bit of gambling but it turned out to be a good running engine. The only problem is it leaks oil from the crankcase breather under the carb. I took it all apart and found the hole between the tappets for oil drainage was li...

My last post was suppose to be in the "trunion repair" thread. I guess I got away from myself.

I recently had one of my own repairs with the key stock fail while plowing with a 129. I was able to poke along and get it back to the shop and actually found both springs and end pins. The slot had blown out but my welds held. I think I overlooked a stress crack on the underside (did it while in tr...

With a new kit (spring and disc) and having the pressure plates resurfaced plus proper adjustment the pto should work fine with the tiller. Resurfacing is quite important and makes a big difference. The kit will come with an adjustment tool.

Randy- The allen bolt mentioned tightens/loosens the adjustment of the shifter lever. There is a flanged nylon bushing with a diagonal split allowing movement/adjustment that goes in the hole and the shifter shaft goes into the bushing. It's all in the manual and the part number for the bushing is I...