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condition means a lot and post pics.

small leak that lets the fuel bowl leak dry ?

check voltage on the 2 wires coming from the stator at the voltage regulator should be about 28 - 34 volts ac if you don't have that you need a new stator ..if you have good voltage there then check on the third wire on the regulator should have about 13-14 volts dc there ..also make sure you're get...

sounds like the rod that puts it into neutral when you hit the brake might have came unhooked and is keeping you from moving the shifter

check to make sure there isn't any dirt / grass built up behind the lever on the trans. keeping it from pushing the button in. watch the button to see if it moves and adjust accordingly

take the belt /pulley guard off to change the belt

I'd say it looks like the original block was too thin after the boring to install the sleeve which made it very weak and left it break

when you push the forward pedal the reverse pedal should rise up ,if it doesn't then something is definitely wrong, you should be able to lift up on the forward pedal while pushing the rev. pedal and normally it will go faster when the bushings are worn out. i've had a couple that even with new bush...

that or someone stepping on the deck when getting on/off the tractor....sight across the 2 lift arms from the side to see if they're parallel with each other if one is low then it's probably bent , if so you can use a jack to bend it back

the adjustable rods will level it front to back , if you weld the left hanger a little at the top to make the slot smaller which will lift the left side a little more

the documents and manuals section at the top of the page

one of the hubs is off center you'll see it has 8 bolt holes unbolt it and rotate to desired tension and bolt it back down

looks like it's rough in the pic. if it is then replace axle and the needle bearing

probably a bad meter

take ahold of the brake arm on the front of the trans. and see if it moves freely . if not try pb blaster and let it soak a while on the pivot pin to see if it frees up..

what about using a key that is the full length of the crank you could grind the back end to match the groove depth and once you have the pulley on just grind the key down flush with the crank,you could weld the key into the groove at the worn area then take a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to square ...

the set screws for the basket pulley are 5/16" course. thread I think 1/2" long

why not just use the split collars like the supers use

it's either a bad connection at the solenoid or a bad solenoid...take your battery out and use your jumper cables to power the tractor and see if there's power coming out of the solenoid,if not then check connections

won't fit...if you scroll to the bottom of the page it says 2"id. x 10 5/8 long so it would fit the 82 series

TODD first set the tines on the ground and rock the big pulley back and forth to see how much slack is in the chain you don't want it tight if you leave about 2 inches of play it should be ok..[the 1/2 " bolt with a jam nut on the back side IIRC is the adjuster] I usually drill a hole at the top to ...

the 16 hp will have about 1/4 more vibration than a 14hp

put a 1/2" flat washer between the outside pad and the bracket to make up some of the lost thickness from the worn pads ,you will probably have to loosen the caliper mounts to center them on the disc then set the brake and retighten the brackets

just jump the 2 wires together

you should check the compression on both cylinders before you buy a coil just in case there are internal problems

there is an adjustment nut at each caliper just in a little from the wheels looking in from the rear of the tractor

005.JPG 006.JPG I finally had some time to work on the second 3205 that I bought and this is what I found,the right axle bearing went bad and the block that it's in broke which lets the axle flop around which broke the aluminum hub in the differential and I'm assuming the axle and spider gears are ...

ends up it's a 3205 and it multiplied ,both have bad rear axles ,,the black one is the first one the second one followed me home from new York on 6/2/14

if you do that it'll build pressure and hold the check ball in the open position and it won't drive the tractor in one direction,one valve is for forward the other is reverse

tom I did some research and found 2 ser.#ranges for the 3208 and 1 for the 3205 and the rear end assy.#'s are all different,without a serial#on mine I might have trouble figuring it out...this will probably be a winter project but I thought I'd put some feelers out there ...thanks