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I got it on ebay for about $90 shipped. Do an ebay search on the numbers in Todd's thread in the How-to section, and you'll come up with a lot of options. They are basically all the same, just from different sellers at slightly different prices.

Here are a few pictures from when I did the upgrade the other day. I drilled a 61/64" hole in the engine mount plate (I wanted 1" but the biggest non-hole-saw bit I had was 61/64") because I thought 1 1/4" might weaken it too much, as there's already another hole nearby from the factory. I ground a ...

Finally got to try this out yesterday after replacing the starter, ignition switch, and glow plugs on the tractor. 100_8187 (Medium).JPG It works GREAT! None of the three belts slipped, and the engine doesn't even know the tiller is there. I was tilling a couple strips for wildflower beds for my mom...

I'm gonna say that would be a stretch...every one in their image gallery is on a small compact tractor that's the same size or slightly larger than an SGT.

Setting the ignition timing by gapping the points rarely gets the timing right...try this. It sounds like the timing is advanced too far.

The indicator thingy knocks the current down to just over 6A, so 10 gauge would have been more than adequate for the stock setup. According to my measurements of the resistance of the glow plugs and calculation of the current draw, 51A is possible, and the 8 gauge is good for 64A for lengths of wire...

Well, it runs! I wish I had done this years ago...it used to take 25 seconds with the glow plugs to get it to start...now, 5 seconds of glow plugs and it starts as soon as the starter turns it over. BM- I crimp and solder all of my wiring, so I don't think I'll have that problem. At least I never ha...

Thanks Steve! I can't believe I couldn't find that. I was looking for it, but in the wrong place. It's all done now, I just have to try it out after dinner. I wound up mounting my solenoid on the same bolts as the fuel pump so I didn't have to drill additional holes, and I just ran a new wire from t...

Since the starter went out on my 782D, I've decided to upgrade the glow plugs while I have the tractor down for the starter repair. I picked up the NGK Y-103V plugs and am trying to figure out what to do with the wiring. I thought I read somewhere to bypass the glow indicator and apply 12V straight ...

That looks really nice! Don't even think about repainting it, there are very few original tractors in that condition. You likely won't increase the value by having it repainted when it is already in that condition.

The O-rings on the valves are probably shot...it wouldn't be much to take the valve apart and replace those.

Try cleaning the connector on the reverse relay, and/or replacing the reverse relay. Mine did that when I got it, too, and that was the problem. Cleaning the connector fixed mine, but the next time I have a problem with that...out come the safety switches. They are more trouble than they are worth.

Are you sure the engine is turning the correct rpms? My diesels mowed fine with their 44" decks.

It's probably wear. There's no reason to have a taper there, just a chamfer to make it easier to put the end of the driveshaft in the ball bushing. If it was tapered, it wouldn't be tight in the inner race of the ball bushing, so it would completely defeat the purpose of having it. Got a pic of what...

What taper? I've had two GT diesels, and neither had a taper anywhere.

I've seen a couple of magnets come off, but never all of them. You can probably epoxy those back into the flywheel if you keep them in the correct order and orientation.

I think the nosepieces would TIG weld ok...I have seen pictures of it done. We fixed one of those inserts with those aluminum welding rods that are supposed to weld just about any two nonferrous metals together, and they worked ok, but what Jess is doing probably looks a lot better. I may have to tr...

Jude- That is probably a great idea for the cast iron parts of the engine (I gotta get me some of that next time I have to go through an engine) but bare aluminum dissipates heat very well. The coating would not be able to increase the rate of heat transfer beyond what it would be for bare aluminum....

Looking great, but I'd lose whatever that black stuff is on the head...that needs to be bare aluminum.

I'm pretty sure there is a special one that move the regulator further away from the lights. It should be easy to find though; I think I had one of the non-lights type, and about 6 of the one for the lights. I think they may have used only the taller one for the lights after awhile, because I have s...

Got a harbor freight nearby? You can get a digital multimeter there for about $3, or sometimes less if there is a coupon. That'll be fine for what you want to do and many other things.

I got around to putting this on my 1872 today after undoing most of the mods the PO did to kludge it onto the 782 (which actually turned out to be a repainted 1712). There is NO WAY this cab fits both the GTs and SGTs... The PO did a lot of modifying to get it onto the 1712; luckily, most of them we...

It's probably going out through the breather. Is the inside of the air cleaner all oily?

Yes, there is a second bearing above the plate.

I think I had posted about this on the old forum when I started it about a year ago. I finally got this tiller on my 782D and functioning. I had finished the parts to connect the gearbox to the hitch, but didn't have the long belt figured out at the time. Since the long belt for this setup is NLA an...

Did you remove the fuel tank and clean all the gel and crap out of it when you changed the fuel filters? Also don't forget you need to be using Power Service or a similar additive if you are using the newer low-sulfur diesel.

I also feel like nylock nuts would probably melt. I have never had an issue with double-nutting them either. I also have a ground-down wrench just for that purpose.

Glad to see you got it figured out...I was traveling between FL and IL on Saturday and Sunday, and then we had some bad storms last night that knocked out the power for about 20 hours, so this is the first chance I've had to get on the internet.

If you want some pics of part of mine, let me know...

I think the reason that solid-mounting a QL engine is because even if it is solid-mounted, it is less rigid than the solid mounting in the 1x8/9 and earlier tractors, in which the engine bolts directly to the frame. In the QL tractors, the engine bolts to a set of steel plates and then to the frame,...

The flat twin probably won't fit in the 2185. I haven't tried it, though, so I don't know. In a nutshell, here's what I had to do to get the CH18 in my 582: - Drill two additional holes in the mounting plate, and re-use two existing ones; I can't remember which ones I reused...it may become obvious ...