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If you have a CCC-built aluminum creeper, those need 85W-140 gear lube.

In either case, no ATF.

The 'underneath' one on the new V/R is the "GEN" terminal. Don't connect anything to the "L" terminal, and the other two remain the same.

Looks pretty homemade to me.

Could I just use the nf one as a template to drill the 4 holes in the Briggs one,then cut off the two mounting holes that is on the mag for the coupler? You still have the same alignment problem that you'll have with the other method you wanted to try. I don't understand why you keep wanting to re-...

Okay, I found that plate and no go on the bolts lining up. Let me throw this one out there,adapter for the Briggs driver. I have a 3 pin driver to use as a template to drill new holes on the Briggs 3 pin driver,the one fits inside the Briggs tight,drill the 4 holes.then I would use a 3" hole saw to...

What's keeping it from running as-is? It sounds like the piston is pretty worn, and putting in a set of rings isn't going to be worth it. If you're just trying to see if the hydro works, run it as-is.

The number of fins is irrelevant on anything but a K341, as all of the K241-321 engines have 13 fins. Only the K341 has either 13 or 12.

The water pump bearings were used at least into the mid '80's...The aluminum housing spindle is an MTD product. I don't think that came around until 1990 or so.

CI-ended deck was only 70/100 and 71, 1x2/3. Stamped-end decks from 72, 1x4/5 until partway through the 86, 1x8/9 series. 44/50" one-piece stamped shell decks after that. The 38" stamped-end deck was used even into the 90's by CCC.

You need to look into that rag joint...either the engine is too far forward or the driveshaft is too short.

I put the filter before the pump on my loader...I don't see any reason to have contaminants going though the pump, the least debris-tolerant part of the whole system, before the filter. I will do the same when I add hydraulics to my 582.

I think the pistons, crank, and maybe the rods are all different. The stroke might be a bit longer.

For the D600B engines at least, the 'new' glow plugs are NGK Y103V and about $8 each from NAPA. You will have to add an additional solenoid and wiring to run them since the start switch can't handle the current they will draw. Here is the thread I started when I performed this mod on my 782D.

Hey Matt Nice job. I want one. Just wondeing if it would have been easier to use a keyed or a splined shaft rather than the pins? Sam Well, splines would have been difficult (if not impossible) to implement on the shaft where the lift bar arm connects. I also don't have any keyway broaches to cut t...

Sounds like either the shifter or one of the shift forks broke...split the tractor and remove the shifter. The issue will likely be obvious at that point.

I've had a couple from '87, neither had the emblem.

That looks very similar to the one I fixed up and mounted on my 682:

My 1872 has 1900 hours on it and does not appear to have ever been apart.

SteveWoods wrote: Yes I find the drawbar interesting too. Was this a factory option at the time?

Nope...PO mod.

Looks good! I'd use floating lift straps though...there's no need for down pressure with a properly-adjusted plow. I just use chains for plowing, and have it set up such that there is a little slack in the chains with the plow in the ground.

After having it designed for 5 years and slowly collecting all of the parts, I finally got around to at least starting to build a Cat-0 3-point for my 582 while I was back at home between Christmas and New Years. I'm trying to correct a couple of shortcomings in the original design, namely the lack ...

I assume that bushings will be welded into those holes, and the actual pivot pins will be 3/4" or so?

Vince, that looks like the one they sell for the 582 now. That's going to wear out the release arm faster because there is no soft shoulder like the throwout bearing for the older tractors. My 582 has the older QL-on-down throwout bearing in it because I wasn't happy with one of those.

I'm with Vince, it's definitely safer to have it pull stuff through on its own. You can stand pretty far away and toss stuff in and stay out of the way. My Dad has the green stationary version of that with its own engine that called a 'Mighty Mac' or something like that...I think the 59M was made by...

It would be awfully hard to remove the flywheel shroud and flywheel with it in the tractor to get to that one, so I'd pull it if by 'rear' you mean 'flywheel end'. You don't need any special tools to install the seals if you are careful. I doubt that both ends have the same seal.

Unless there's some history I'm not aware of, the 982 entered the market in 1979, with a 50A deck. The 60" Haban arrived much later under CCC, circa 1987. The JD 400 was released in 1975 with a 60" shaft driven belly mower. It took over 5 years for IHC to respond with the 982, and far longer for th...

The best way to make sure you get the right parts for the carb is to take all of the numbers off of the engine to a small engine place so they can look them up. Unlike Kohler, Briggs made about 300,000 different carb variations over the years...

Like this, Steve? The other side is a sleeve hitch...

A lot of aircraft radial engines and some of the early jets were started that way.

The NF and WF spindles are different heights, so that will not work. You could just change out the whole axle, though.