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I had a similar issue with the rear in my 1872...details are on the 1872 page of my website in my signature line.

I could be wrong but somewhere I think I heard the 1772 had a slightly larger (thicker, maybe?) radiator than the other diesels at the time.

If you have anything with an aluminum rear, they can be replaced with a CI rear, and the aluminum case would scrap for 5x as much...

There is no electric shutoff on these. If you've never replaced both fuel filters and cleaned the tank and shutoff valve screen, now is the time. You also should be using an additive like Power Service.

There is no 'interval'...you rebuild it when it needs it, not just because. If you aren't having problems, leave it be.

50". If you put a front axle from a cyclops under it you can probably get a 54" deck on it.

Other than it was like 115 today, nothing! Well, ok, some people drive really slow

What I meant in my previous post is that if I didn't have a job here, I would still be at home or somewhere else...

Vince, mine only runs that hot if the grille screen is clogged with bugs. Most of the time the needle is just to the right of the lower end of the operating range.

Absolutely not. If it wasn't an aircraft industry job, I wouldn't be here

If you get that alternator to work, post some details. When the alternator dies on my 782D, I'd rather not buy another inadequate Kubota one. I'll keep my mechanical fan, but I'd sure like to be able to use the lights and PTO clutch at the same time

Yeah, I got a job, and I'm in Wichita, Kansas now.

For the lower hose, you can either take the old one to an auto parts store with a patient desk guy that will take it out back and compare it to all of the auto ones until he finds something close enough, or get radiator hose that doesn't have any preformed bends in it and just use large cable clamps...

If you are painting over existing paint, you need to prime to avoid any incompatibility between the two layers of paint. Don't use rattle cans either...use the primer that's part of the paint system. That will ensure you won't have any compatibility issues.

That's probably the high-end 'Delstar'. You need their economy line, 'Shop Line' also called 'Omni' some places. The paint is less than $30/quart, plus you'll need primer and stuff too, but you'll probably only spend $250 or so total with that instead of $250/quart.

You will need 2 quarts of yellow if not more. I used 1 1/2 to do a 100 with no fenders. A 2072 has a lot more surface area. You'll probably get away with 1 qt. of white. Here's a paint cross-reference:

I have used PPG 'Shop Line' with good results. I would definitely paint a tractor with it again. The colors looked great to me. IMO, you would probably be happy with just about any auto paint.

All the Cubs are staying at home...I'm in an apartment. I tried to find a house to rent, but all of the ones I could afford were terrible. This will work fine, my Dad uses them for stuff anyway.

Here's something I had been wanting to build for a long time, and finally did a couple days before I moved. It's a 1" receiver hitch on one side: hitch1.JPG And it's a sleeve hitch on the other side: hitch2.JPG Obviously you'd have to turn it around to use the sleeve hitch. I guess I didn't take a p...

I'm going to guess trac-vac since those are trac-vac colored. The left piece bolts to the mower deck chute and is how the collector clips onto the deck. Not sure about the other piece.

If you have a welder and are welding on it anyway, it's FAR faster to weld up the wear in the corners and file them back into shape than welding pieces of shaft key or that repair piece on it. I'm not really a fan of that repair piece...something about throwing all that heat into the trunion seal on...

I wanna say the JD had a different crank end...1" instead of 1 1/8", so you'd probably need a JD PTO clutch, too. I think the air cleaner may also be different, but you could change that.

I don't know of a cheaper alternative. It is a rather special bearing. It's not like you are going to have to replace it again for awhile...spend the money and be glad you can still get it.

If you get any ice at all you'll be totally screwed if you don't have chains. They can scratch your driveway, but if you re-seal it every once in awhile like you are supposed to, they get covered up. If you have enough weight with the chained tires, you won't spin them if you are careful.

If you are using on-road diesel you need a lubricity additive like Power Service if it is the new ultra-low sulfur diesel. That's one difference.

Does the hydraulic lift work?

The engine needs to be turning CCW when viewed from the front of the tractor.

Yeah, WF shifter or heat/bend whatever you have to fit. The driveshaft is probably longer than either the NF or WF tractors. Depending on what you put together for a clutch you'll be in custom-length territory anyway.

You will need an entire 582 clutch and 3-pin driver. You also may need some brake linkage odds'n'ends. They show up on ebay from time to time. When I converted a 580 (yellow and white 582S) to a 582, I bought the 582 3-pin driver and used some NF pressure plates and rear coupler and bought the rest ...

The tiller and gearbox attach to each other the normal way. Here are a few pictures that show how the whole thing attaches to the tractor. I basically reverse-engineered the kit that CCC had to put the IH tillers on tractors with Cat-0 3-points. I have only seen one in person (a long time ago, befor...

Somewhere between 4-8 ohms. Sounds like you may have a short in the wire going to the PTO somewhere.