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Kevin,
Go to a NAPA store and get part # TG7071 switch. It is rated for 50 amps.If you need more than that you should probably
use relays.

I'm running a NAPA/Wix 4100 base and 4104 filter on my pulling diesel. It has a bleeder built in. Only drawback to that one is that there is no mounting bracket. I had to drill and tap the top to attach a bracket. The only reason I used that is because I started with nothing on a custom build and it...

I put a 3L200 on it tonight. It seems to run about 3/4 in the pulley. I had to pull pretty hard to get it on but it seems like it may work ok. The pulleys are plastic and are worn some which probably helps. The orginal length was around 20" which works out to 508mm and the belt is marked with 508 on...

I bought a cheap drill press a few years back. Overall it has worked pretty well other than the table flexes down when you put a lot of pressure on the handles. But now the one belt is worn out. It has a spot where it is worn enough that it will slip when I'm drilling larger holes. Anyhow It uses 8m...

What were the pressure readings? Does it speed (ground speed) up if you use the hydraulic lift when you are moving? What is the pressure when you work the lift?

Bill, A leakdown test isn't the same as a compression test. A leakdown test presurizes the cylinder with compressed shop air and measures how much pressure leaks off. A leakdown test can tell you a whole lot more about the engine condition than a compression test will. This explaines it better than ...

Mike,
A leakdown test is done with the piston held at TDC. The compression release is closed at that point.

Looking for a new beater car. Something in a 1990s GM sedan in the $500-$1500 range.
I currently have a 95 Century and wouldn't mind another one similar.

Maybe try what David Kirk did on his QL;
http://www.kirkengines.com/downloads/Ki ... PartII.pdf
It is about 1/3 down the page.

On the newer tractors the deck is a lot louder which may make the engine seem quieter.

I believe it is the same bracket or similar as used on the manual lift 82 series.

13, 16 and 26

It looks like the change was made at 880,000 so his would be the later style. The subframe and lift rod should be the only things different. Someone with some welding skills could easily extend the front upright brackets on the subframe. And a lot of us end up making our own lift rods. A WF/82 serie...

They end up being about the same ratio as the aftermarket 38% overdrive for the later transmissions. The later transmissions have a 7:1 front reduction while the Original is around 4.4:1.

I'm working on a 582 with its original Briggs. It was pumping oil into the air cleaner from the right breather. According to the service manual, only the early engines had two breathers and the later ones only had one. I pulled that breather out and in the course of checking it out I broke the fiber...

Vince,
I have seen people use grease too. If you google search "pinion depth" you will probably find some pics using grease.

Dave,
Try a Stiener dealer. They go by Sunstrand numbers also. When Dad worked for a Steiner dealer he got me the case gaskets.

Dave,
Use one of the online lookups to get the sundstrand part number. The numbers in the later CCC parts lists use the Sunstrand number with an "SU" prefix.
Drop the prefix and you have their part number.

I believe you can just take the two bolts out and rotate the housing without removing the drive shaft or anything else. Looks like the ear with the flat side should go towards the right side of the tractor.

Did you mark which way the charge pump was on when you took it apart? If you have it upside-down it reverses the input direction and won't pump.

There is 12 in/lb per 1 ft/lb so 70 in/lb would be about 6 ft/lb.

I always use gasket cement on them. Permatex Hi-Tack is my preferred brand. You do have the piece with the holes installed with the little hole at the bottom don't you?

I think the hole you are talking about leads to the cylinder bore. So the hole could be open or closed depending on whether the piston is up or down.
Without looking at one I'm not sure but I think there is another hole on the exhaust side that lets the oil drain back.

Just a couple points of clarification to Steve's post. The 1861 and 1862 used Magnum engines while the 1863 and 1864 used Command engines. Most of the second series Cyclops models used the newer style hydro pump except the ones with power steering. Those models (the 1864 and the Supers) still used t...

We are talking about the trunion arm seeming to be too close to the center of the tractor, right? They always seem to wear the outer edge of the trunion slot. I doubt the engineers designed them to be off center. They have probably gotten bent over time, or it could be from wear. It is pretty easy t...

Brandon, What class are you running? It depends on that and how handy you are at fabricating. If you are running the stock classs, a double disc setup based on stock parts will work fine. Brian Miller's site shows how they are made and you should be able to do most of the work yourself for next to n...

Dave, If you can find a copy of the hyd lift installation instructions for a 169 that pretty much covers it. You will move the charge pump relief valve and spring from the top to the side then install the new implement lift relief valve and spring in the top. The spring is NLA from CCC but I'm sure ...

Matt, When I owned a 982 about 4 years ago the coupler was shot. I called my local dealer, Madsens and C&G and they all told me it wasn't available. That was no rumor. So I bought a splined shaft coupler and spent about 6 or 8 hours at my lathe turning into a steel version of that coupler. I wouldn'...

I didn't intend for the set screws to be a substitute for a worn coupler. Although "just replace the coupler" may be easier said than done since the last I heard they were NLA. Eventually the supply of good used ones will dry up. In the two cases that I did it the couplers were tight. In one case I ...

Dave,
I have a correction. The "5 prong ignition switch" is actually the plastic plug for the 5 prong switch rather than the switch itself.

On that rear coupler I would drill the hole in the coupler and tap it 1/4-20 and put a set screw in it and drill another new hole at 90 deg and put a second set screw in that hole. I have done that to two tractors and it seems to work well.