Cub Cadet Collectors dot com

Thanks guys. My nieces rode on it for hours the other night. It's perfect for kids because if you let off the pedals it stops. Come to think about it, my whole family rode it a while. Nieces, nephew, mom, dad, brother... who knew My wife's pretty cool about them. I can't complain. We restored a scra...

I still think about him every time I see an old dealer decal. We were both in I believe Noblesville one year talking Originals. I always considered him kind of a long time guru on them and after talking found out I'd been messing with Cubs as long as he had and it was actually a later hobby of his. ...

I believe it's mostly 14 gauge. Battery cables are 6 or 8 gauge though. I thought there used to be some guys here that built harnesses. They would know for sure too

It's alive. Ran it for an hour today piddling. Got a good washing and reunited with cart while at it. It's the "little" things in life. I used to have a 75 I fitted an 11hp Briggs on. It would pull the front wheels off the ground and almost bushhog in 3rd gear. I ended up selling it when I got this ...

This is my barn ornament I restored years ago. I never ran it much except playing after the repaint so never realized it had motor issues. Sounded good until it ran hard for 10 minutes then smoked out of the top and died a lot. Got a wild hair having it out once, tore it down, found a ring gap of. 0...

If your fiberglass is good that's half the battle. The blue trim is called windlace. Now that you know that it should be easier to find for a classic car or something. I bought blue when I had my old Falcon a few years back. The upholstery I remember someone was doing a while back and the only diffe...

Long awaited baths!

Tom, I believe you're close on that. If I remember correctly, from 1979-1981 IH went all red with the x82 series (even lawn tractors) to look more like their big Brothers of the time, including decal and grill design. When mtd bought them in 1981, they kept the red to fulfill the contract with IH de...

I'd guess a 71 with 12hp, so kind of a 122 without the square rear fender setup. Speaking of which, when are you adding fenders?

I couldn't agree more. Makes them look a little more like the big tractors. Looking good

I enjoy the tools and how to very much and sure others get a lot of good use from it. I've been through cubs enough that most things aren't foreign to me on them but when working on newer vehicles or some newer tractors (after the 1950s) I have issues, such as the torque amplifier, where I have no c...

I'm loving the idea. Something I thought would be neat and build upon the idea is a "how-to" section like this where it's all step by step instructions on fixing issues. Maybe allow one line of text per picture or something. Kind of a write up with pictures only section. Topics like front pto remova...

Probably should have specified. I updated it to a 12hp and all options, in this case most notably a creeper gear, years ago. I've tilled with 10hp though and it's about the least you'd want for the bigger tiller. A 1A tiller without both extensions would probably work for a 7hp.

Just tilled mine yesterday with the 73 and 2B tiller. Always does fantastic.

I personally would not want anything that can spring an oil leak on the muffler or above it. The 1810 and similar models had it on the firewall under the gas tank. Where that one is can't even be changed without leaking oil on the muffler guard that will smoke when hot. Whether or not any manufactur...

After the U, they started at 700,000 for mtd I believe. So that one's fairly early. I had a 482 once that was 701xxx or something. This part I don't remember but I think there's a serial number for the motor too if you're still trying to figure out series 1 or 2. It's on the fuel pump sheet metal co...

Well that's pretty sweet! I need some of those in yellow on mine and a red one on my H

I thought all cc built ones had the series 2 but not 100%. What's the serial number? Maybe it was really early and got a series 1. I've had the little "valves" or whatever they are pop loose on several fuel pumps on those. They'll still run but lose prime and take forever to start because the fuel d...

I had one on a 73 once. Been years but if I recall the 73 already had holes in the frame for it. The 100 I believe needs holes drilled for the bracket. I don't remember any modifications when I did it. It just wasn't strong enough for a tiller or plow like a hydraulic lift. I even had spring assist ...

Yes, the coil is 12V. Yes, you need a voltage regulator. Assuming the wiring is good, check to see if it's charging. If not, jump the F terminal from regulator to a ground on the tractor for a second. If the amp meter pegs to charge, the generator is good but not going through the regulator. I think...

At this point can you post a picture of the rockshaft, lift rod attached to the tractor, and lift rod attached to blade? Maybe we'll see something that doesn't look right that would otherwise never cross anyone's mind?

Have you taken the tunnel cover off in front of the seat and watched the lift work up and down on the rockshaft? Maybe it has a sheared pin or something and isn't getting the full travel.

If they made a blade for it I don't see why you couldn't but personally I wouldn't want to use a zero turn as a garden tractor. You always hear about hydro pumps burning up on them. Maybe yours is an industrial model built to take it but I personally would be hesitant and afraid to burn up the pumps...

Thanks guys. I plan to use it weekly, so I skimped a bit on perfecting the bodywork like I would a hood or fender on a tractor. Figured what's the use if it gets scratched and bent some. I have about two acres and another 3 I mow off once or twice a year. There's woods mowers around here I considere...

Yes, it was on a d series. This one was a 982 size super with 20 hp motor. I want to say d180 or something around that. It's essentially an L59 Or rm59 that turns left handed. I couldn't find parts at all until I searched for similar woods models.

This was a long time coming but finally done and thought I'd share. I bought this last fall, actually used it some, but it needed work. It's a wheel horse 60" 2000 rpm finish mower. After mowing season, I ripped it all apart, new bearings and seals in all noisy spindles and pulleys, new belt, new bl...

Is the battery actually discharging to the point it won't start? Do you have a battery tester you can throw on the battery while running to see what it's actually charging to? Was the voltage regulator the correct one or aftermarket? Just trying to rule out other possibilities before assuming it's a...

Have you tried pushing the clutch pedal down and prying the clutch disc free with a screwdriver? It might have just stuck a bit and need popped free. I've sprayed them with WD40 after popping free before and haven't had slipping issues.

Those fine spline axles are a bit on the pricey side. Glad you found the issue at least. When buying replacements be sure to buy "fine spline" axles. The older style IH Cub Cadets use a course spline axle that won't work. Also since the fluid is drained, try to look closely for broken metal from the...

Since you did all of the obvious like battery and grounds, what about binding? Maybe the front pto dragging a bit or drive clutch grabbing a little and causing it to fight against either one as well as trying to turn the motor over?