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The tiller is a 2. There's a serial tag on the left of the tiller that will have it on there. You need the right angle gearbox to use it and the only difference in model 2 tillers is the size of the pulley on that gearbox. I think the 2B tiller had a bigger pulley for the x82 series bigger belt widt...

On that tractor, it's very little work to get to and remove the head. Might be less time, research, and expense to just get a new head gasket, take the head off and make sure it isn't warped, clean out carbon and reinstall. Even if it doesn't fix it, it's good to clean the carbon out occasionally an...

Those are common issues but I wouldn't let it stop me if I wanted one... except maybe the rear end bolts tearing up the housing. Yes, things happen but if those issues pop up fix them once and never worry about again. Quitelines have their issues, and every other model has theirs. I wouldn't trade m...

Good to hear! enjoy the seat time!

Sounds like your linkage is out of adjustment. You're holding it in neutral with the brake pedal but the linkage isn't lining up with neutral. It's the rod that runs back to the trunion or the plate that mounts to the rear end with two 9/16" headed bolts with the slot that holds it in neutral while ...

Yes that's correct but a number 1 tiller will fit right on there all the same. The only real difference in them is the 1 was smaller with two optional extensions. The 2 was just 38" regardless.

A good test light (or even cheap one) is great for wiring. Check to see if you have power going into the switch by attaching the test light to a good ground or the negative battery post and the other side of the test light to the terminal on the switch. If it has power going in turn the switch on an...

That was hours of work and research to be way off base. Good learning experience though. Turns out it was a wire that escaped it's clip under the battery box in the rear. Worked down to the rear pto pulleys and rubbed it almost in two. Guess the missing in the motor was something grounding out... I'...

NEVERMIND MY LAST POST. DON'T NEED ANYTHING CHECKED FOR GROUND OR POWER! First to answer your question Dag,its an old style coil with an ignition module under the flywheel instead of points. I attached a pic with my multimeter leads on it. It's not an old round one but external nonetheless. Now, the...

I messed with it further and there's a red wire from ignition module under flywheel to positive coil post and black to negative post. With everything unhooked the red wire is grounded (which doesn't seem right). Since you have one getting spark with electronic ignition, how much trouble would it be ...

Thanks for the link. I remember all the issues you've been having. I love the motor and use the tractor more than any of them the last few years so certainly not hoping to ditch it. I was going to order a coil and condenser but trying to rule out wiring first. I just don't know if I should have powe...

Before I mess anything up is anyone familiar with an Onan performer engine, or electronic ignition in general? My long-time flawless 982 suddenly started sputtering a bit when hot like a fuel issue but carb cleaning and adjustments didn't help. Using it yesterday it suddenly just died after 45 minut...

Do a search on this site or Google "trunion repair". It's a set of springs on the hydrostat you can replace the springs on and even shim a bit with washers and make the hydro more responsive. It's possible it's badly worn and needs service anyway. Might help the start/stop some instead of trying a d...

When I first put my creeper in it leaked. Seal and gasket was new at the time and I finally figured out what you're mentioning, it was coming from the breather and running down to look like a seal leak. I put the extension pipe on made for the deeper tunnel models and it hasn't leaked since in many ...

Sounds like you've already done a lot of your research so i'll just give my opinion. I'd go with the 126. The tiller is a model 2 if it's the full width one and the model 70 will struggle with it with only 7hp. The 147 has the most horsepower but the electric lift struggles to pick up that much weig...

That's an amazing find btw. Looks like Lew covered most of it but here's what I was referring to anyway. Most all of the Original clutch adapter parts are specific to this only. I still run the timed deck with my 3 blade conversion mule drive because I like the look. Also a closeup on the front gril...

My Original has front pto on it and almost nothing crosses over to the narrow frames or anything else. I can take pictures of it all if needed. It was so tight against the front grill mesh I made a separate brace for the grill that doesn't go down all the way. If there's no holes or anything in the ...

I don't know if you can buy replacement gears for that but you can buy the seals and gaskets. My guess though is you could just buy another unit for around $150 ready to bolt in and be both money and time ahead trying to rebuild a unit with missing mechanical parts inside.

Just an outside shot and take it for what it's worth... does that motor still have a condenser? I've seen them idle fine and go wacky with any throttle or load and surge and spit fire with a bad condenser. Just a thought since you've covered a lot of other bases

Awesome deal! Sometimes it just works out. Wouldn't have been my first guess either but nice save

Since it had been sitting possibly governor weights are a little rusted, froze, or just sticking? I had a 71 do that many years ago. Refreshed the motor and carb with new rings, valves, etc and didn't replace governor (yeah I know and learned). Governor looked good while apart but the weights appare...

982 with disc

I think you have to take the snap ring off the hydro linkage to get that off. The rear end needs to come loose I think but if you take the rear fenders off and get the snap ring off you might slide it loose enough to get that piece out. That big plate is called the swash plate or something, can't re...

It was about 30 degrees Friday when I did this and figured pics weren't a necessity even though I considered it. You had to bring it up Dave :lol: There's a factory crimp on the bottom that I chucked in the lathe and couldn't have taken a couple minutes to have removed. It isn't big so an angle grin...

Thanks to a member here and gentleman elsewhere that just did this same rebuild, it was confirmed the standard 008 oring was correct and doesn't have a lot of friction. I cleaned and reassembled and tack welded the valve back together. I ran around a while in forward and reverse, cycled the hydro li...

The relief valve on my 782 suddenly started seeping while not running. Didn't see anything while it was running. I turned it down on the lathe and took it apart. The small oring inside is a 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/16. I tried one from my kit and one from two different parts stores. The new ones just aren't ...

I don't know if I'd just drill new holes in the tiller gearbox mount and mount it. That aluminum rear probably won't hold the weight of the tiller hanging off of it. I know they offered the cat 0 hitch and 400 model tiller or something for this issue. Someone else can chime in on that. They do make ...

Is the solenoid clicking when you try to start or not? If it isn't you may not be getting power to and from it to get to the starter

Electrical parts are less of a concern than more cub specific parts to me. There's so many cubs out there that even if mtd doesn't supply replacement parts aftermarket should. If there's a lot of them and demand, someone typically cashes in on that demand. I restore several old Farmalls pushing 80 y...

test light would make short work of that. If you don't have one start wiggling connectors on the ignition switch and pto switch. I don't remember but I believe there's a separate terminal on the on/off switch for power and starting. One good connector on the coil power still won't allow a bad one fo...