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So I didn't take a photo of the raw plates and ring chucked in the lathe, so you'll hafta imagine it (like Whirl'd Peas). I centered it by just parking the tool holder out near the edge, off a little bit (not in contact) and observing the runout, and alternately loosening and tightening jaws to brin...

Okay, so today's operations are dedicated to the first steps of producing a completely new axle outer assembly for each side. This is a fabricated steel assembly using the Dana 60 outer tubes and spindles, but a plate steel flange with steel gussets. I'm starting with two pieces of square plate that...

Dave, did that bandsaw come from Michigan? No Mike... it's very ornate. If it was from Michigan, it would have to be substantially more Spartan. :twisted: That's too nice to be called a band-saw, must be an Orchestra-saw, ;) Neal, It's figure is NOT accidental - this machine was clearly built on a ...

One common issue with Kohler K-singles, is the contact points. Look closely at how they're set up... your coil wire connects to a screw, and from that screw, the points are grounded by current passing through the SPRING. Now, that may seem like an innocuous and trivial fact, in reality, it can be ve...

Looks like we've got a fair chance for rain on Sunday, so I'm getting parts pre-cut for machine work. A rainy day, is a great day to spend at the controls of machine-tools.

Hey Tim! Great to hear from you too! Okay, so I haven't gotten a whole lot done on the Mutt transaxle in the last few weeks, on account of... well... many reasons. One is that, the weather being more conducive, I've been working on some outdoor projects... one has been the process of converting a de...

Yeah... I don't think I'd give the Travelall the distinction of "FIRST SPORT-Utility". the 1936 Chevrolet CarryAll Suburban comes to mind, as does the Willy's Wagon and Willy's Overland Jeepster (1948). There were LOTS of vehicles that fit the description of Sport-Utility Vehicle, but the term appea...

Bear- the scrolls you see in the bottom force grain into the grinding plates, on the side above the nozzle. I'm certain that if you threw grapes, or meat, or your shoes in it, it'd come out the other side in much-smaller-parts than they started out as.

Much to the chagrin of my wife, and other beneficiaries of my estate, I'm not dead yet... I haven't been working on the Mutt's future transaxle on account of other outdoor-based projects, and lots of summer activities. At this moment, I have a for-purpose motorcycle transport trailer chassis that's ...

Slow speed surge is usually a circumstance of wear in the hydrostat swashplate linkage... aka... 'trunion'. It's something best fixed using a welder (to fill in the worn spots) and a file (to make them square and flat again)... But before you do that, have you pulled the back cover, cleaned out the ...

Limited-slip and locking differentials come in many flavors, and they're some very clever gadgets... they work several different ways, all trying to accomplish the same thing. IMO, the Auburn Gear design is probably the operationally most robust, but it's also an expensive piece to machine, as it ha...

Sorry to hear that, Ken- was that just today? I've never had issues with chains... I've got 'em on my 109... with ag tires filled with fluid, and the K201 is extremely strong in it's state-of-tune... I've never peeled an axleshaft on it. Judging by the tracks it left, it looks like the right hand si...

Pause for Station Identification.... Please do not attempt to adjust your set... I'm not taking a break from the project, just preoccupied with some other things at the moment... will return, after these messages...

The A belt being narrower than a B, when you place the B in an A sheave, it will ride higher, thus, you'll need a longer belt. While belt manufacturers like Gates and Carlisle have drive engineer software, it all goes by sheave part number for their systems, so calculating a difference of length wit...

If you want a more serious driveline: http://www.cubcadetcollectors.com/forum/download/file.php?id=17034 And... don't worry about the fan. I work the p!$$ out of Loader-Mutt, with a 24hp Honda, and the Hy-Tran warms up, but I've beat it relentlessly for 24 years... and I still haven't cooked the hyd...

That is why they're called 'rag joints'... :roll: Okay, so, the rag joint not only transmits torque, it allows compliance in both radial and longitudinal directions. Radial meaning, the centerline of the driveshaft is not necessarily in-line with the plane of the driven end... a common cardan-type '...

There is NOTHING on Loader-Mutt that will ever be safe from the possibility of my plasma cutter, MIG, or mill. There are many machines in my life that ARE somewhat more 'sacred', but Mutt is a machine first and foremost... it does difficult, nasty, brutal work, not beauty-queen duty... it is self ju...

I totally believe that... and I'll be there's more circumstances of that happening that nobody talked about. :oops: I'm totally prepared to bust stuff, and I totally expect that when I do, I'll hafta find a way to improve it... but at the moment, well, I'm fixin' what broke. I'm certain that horsepo...

Okay, so for a few wheel measurements... Rim maximum OD 13.25". BEAD surface 12-5/8" Wheel inside 10" Rim max width 9-1/8. IF I were to build a wheel to replace it... I think I'd start by looking for a piece of 10" ID steel tubing with at least a 3/8" wall... that's hydraulic cylinder material... 26...

And here's a couple pictures to explain the size relationship... notice that the wheel fits over the axle and spindle in a fairly nice way... but there's not a whole lotta room inside that wheel for additional stuff like disk brakes and shoes. Imagine, though, if that hub was sitting deeper into the...

So it's clear that I have several options with how I deal with wheels. I could... torch holes in existing wheels and slap 'em on... Cut new wheel centers, torch old ones out, and weld new ones in existing wheels using same offset Do same, but different offset... Getting stock brakes to fit in there ...

And here's a few measurements to remember: OD of the D60 tubes indicates 3.125. ID is 2.466. That means wall thickness is 3.125-2.466/2=0.3295"... 0.330" wall. this means the AREA of cross section is Area of outer diam - area of inner diam (1.64*1.64*3.14) - (1.23*1.23*3.14) 8.445 - 4.75 = 3.69 sq i...

So time for a little preliminary thinking-out-loud, and some eyeball and caliper measuring... Here's the IHCC axle housings, one with axle in it (it's the broken off one, so the height is actually fairly correct) and one of the D60 outers with hubs installed. Obviously I'll be shortening the outers ...

And here's the stubs, cleaned up a bit using a flapper-disc in the 4" grinder, and a quick bath in the parts washer.

Next comes a quick visit from the cutting torch, where I cut off the old spring perches, and I made my cut right in the middle of where the perches USED to be...

And here's a look at the side of the cut tube. Notice how thick the wall is on this tubing? Yeah... it's strong...

Another measurement I'll need, is the PILOT opening that the new wheel system will require. It's around 4.75".

Another important point of note... is that the Dana 60's axle shaft is a forged one-piece item, and there's a recess in the end flange, whose purpose is to provide clearance for the bearing lockrings.

On the RIGHT side housing, the Cub Cadet's STOCK setup put the wheel mounting surface approximately 8-5/8" from the TRANSAXLE mounting surface.

Now... pause for a few critical measurements...

I need to know the distance of the wheel flange, from where the wheel mounts, to the transaxle housing.

On the Dana 60, the mounting surface of the wheel is 4-3/4" from the spindle's welded seam.

Now, the other side was a repeat, save for a few things... one is that the axle flange didn't really wanna release from the hub... it took a little coercion with a chisel in the seam...

oh, and here's what that hub looks like off the axle. Beastly, eh?