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Well...., the mystery is solved and my PTO clutch mechanism is now tight as a gun barrel. Unlike unmolested genuine Cub Cadet clutch pulleys, which require an American 1/8" Allen, the Allen wrench size required for my set-screws is 2.5mm Communist . Both set-screws in one of the three holes required...

I first thought maybe a corn grinder, but I have discarded that idea, although it may be correct.
Anyone know what it is ?

Since my initial post, I have found new information and updated that post. My first question remains === Should I be able to wiggle and flop around the pulley ? Also, watching this video brought on another question; when he is installing the clutch back onto the engine, what is he accomplishing by c...

My engine is laying on the work bench. I noticed that I can really wiggle the PTO pulley a good bit; I can also move it for and aft about 1/16-inch. Maybe this is as it should be, but I figured maybe the three little hidden bolts may have gotten loose. I cleaned about a half-pound of dirt-dauber mud...

I have the thick aluminum oil-pan. It says 35 ft-lbs for cast-iron pan on cast-iron block; this is aluminum pan screwing into cast-iron block. With new lock-washers on the Grade-5 3/8x16 bolts, I made a best-guess and torqued them to 372 in-lbs; a bit under the 420 in-lbs (35 ft-lbs) When I removed ...

buy a cheap B series belt and cut it and use it to measure. Thanks ! That is an excellent idea ! I am going to screenshot that and put it in my belt information folder. Back when I made the new pump brackets and had the thing apart and back together a hundred times, in a desperate attempt to keep f...

~~~~~~~~~ Brass PTO button http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/JRD77VET/house/cub%20cadet/parts/parts/DCP_6279.jpg $8.50 each shipped ~~~~~~~ >>> EMERGENCY <<< ! Are these still available ? As best I remember, I bought three from you (or somebody) a few years ago; the first one is getting thin an...

As per the picture: Oil%20Drain%20Plug_Torque%20Values.png I am assuming the size column is the bolt diameter; am I correct ? Also, for the oil-pan torque values, it lists Sheet-metal at 200 inch-lbs, Cast Iron at 35 Foot-lbs, but the Aluminum section is blank. What is the torque value for an alumin...

The posi lock memo I saw from Kohler for k series 10-18 and magnum 10-16 says posi lock has nuts that are oiled and get torqued to 260 inch lbs. Thank you so much for confirming my best guess. Since my slightly-used replacement rod has flanged nuts, I decided it must be the Posi-Lock. I lightly oil...

The kohler book has two torque specs for the rod-cap bolts , one for posi-lock and one without. My old rod has bolts that thread into the rod; the replacement has studs and flanged nuts. Neither has the locking tabs that I have seen mention of. The Kohler manual gives no clue as to how to differenti...

The A belt being narrower than a B, when you place the B in an A sheave, it will ride higher, thus, you'll need a longer belt. While belt manufacturers like Gates and Carlisle have drive engineer software, it all goes by sheave part number for their systems, so calculating a difference of length wi...

I have searched the internet for this answer to no avail. My only-one-in-the-world Mitsubishi R2500 tractor has a loader that has it's own belt-driven hydraulic pump, completely independent of the tractors hydraulics. The pulleys are A and B compatible. I have been using an "A" belt (it was the only...

Harbor freight sells a ring compressor that should fit most Kohler pistons. As I recall less than $10. Good old Harbor Freight ... Thanks ! I will check that out. >>> A few minutes later: I just hung the tape-measure across the piston --- in a scientific manner --- and it shows 3-5/16 diameter. Her...

Unless you guys can suggest a poor-man's solution, it looks like I am going to need a ring compressor to put the piston in my 129 (12hp Kohler) I am assuming that such a device comes in various sizes and I sure don't want to end up buying something too big or too small. Can someone point me in the r...

Hi Bear! You CAN use studs instead of bolts in the bottom of the K-series engine... Thanks for confirming. When I first typed the question, I was thinking studs in the front two holes on account of they are in such an inaccessible location, and just using the stock bolts in the easily accessible re...

Thank You Mr. Dale Campbell !
The engine is now on the floor.

I have just managed to remove the engine from my 129. The front two bolt were --- well, to be nice I will say difficult; I am really looking forward to trying to reinsert them. Is there any reason why I can't use studs in those front holes ? Is there a trick that I am missing ? Thanks for reading an...

dale campbell wrote:yes. you'll have to lift it also because the oil pan will hit the frame

Thanks; also thanks for the bit about lifting the engine.

dale campbell wrote:the engine should slide forward and come off the shaft.

Are you saying, once I get the engine loose from the frame, I just slide it forward without having to disconnect the shaft ?

>>>>> Just a heads up = I just found these on clearance at Rock Auto for $1.49 each --- believe it or not.
Go to "Part Number Search", type in Gates 7315 XL and they will come up.
I got three on the way.

Never mind --- I found it !!!

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4824&p=27291&hilit= ... elt#p27291

Many thanks to Klapatta for posting the pictures and numbers.

If it runs and has decent tires, there's 80% of your cost. A passed-on friend advised me once, to choose my tractor projects based on 'good engine' or 'good tires', as they're the two most expensive aspects of a resto. If you get BOTH, then you're a lucky guy! That is good advice and I will add: Th...

Some years ago, someone posted a picture of a belt that they had found that pretty-much filled the V-grooves on the pulleys; it was a lot healthier looking belt than the little rubber-band that is on mine. I thought I had bookmarked it, but I can't find it. Thanks for reading and all help is appreci...

Pulling the engine on my 129, I have the engine loose from everything except the drive-shaft. At the engine end of the shaft, I see a v-belt pulley with some sort of coupling bolted to it with four 5/16 bolts; this coupling thingie has a slot with a pin that appears to be driven through the shaft. I...

I just want to charge 12-volt batteries that have for whatever reason gotten pretty weak, like 8- or 9-volts weak, without warping plates and boiling them dry. I have a couple "portable" "smart" "automatic" chargers that never were much account; and, once I finally figured out how to test their true...

I am in need of a good battery charger. I have been looking at new ones on Amazon and it is evident that such a thing as a good new battery charger must not exist anymore. I want one that when I probe the business end of the cables with my volt-meter, it will tell me the output and not just say -0-;...

Klapatta wrote: Does the Stens gasket now have the metal ring? It seems to me that a long time ago it did not.

Yes; the Stens gasket that I got does have a "fire ring".

Even after a couple hours last night, it was still too warm to my liking for the second torquing of the bolts. It poured the rain most of today, but it finally quit and I managed to get out there and finish things up. With the engine completely cool, I torqued again to 30 ft-lbs, gaining a hex more ...

Check the compression. Sounds like it could be a leaking head gasket. You NAILED IT ! I ordered in a new Stens head-gasket and waited for a rare rain-less day. I had not attempted to start it since my first post. Today, before taking anything apart, I was intending to run it and squirt some MMO thr...

Might be less time, research, and expense to just get a new head gasket, take the head off and make sure it isn't warped, clean out carbon and reinstall. That's almost exactly what my wife suggested when I told her I needed a tool to test and see if I needed a new head gasket; she said "why not jus...