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Tom, Since you mentioned PB, Kroil, etc I thought I'd mention what we ended up using on this project. We have had this product at work for a couple years now but I had never tried it. We have a pretty high volume local auto repair shop that buys about 2 cans a week from us. I had been wanting an exc...

Couple more thoughts on removing the broken stud. I have done quite a few. Drill the whole way through the broken stud. As Tom said the hole has to be perfectly centered. A set of left hand bits can help too. Once you get the initial pilot hole drilled, the next size bit may catch and back the stud ...

Mine is the better one made in Brazil. So apparently the ones we sell at NAPA are the good ones.

We will be leaving in a few hours and make our way out there. should be there sometime mid afternoon.

Doggone Ken. Now I have to go home and check the one I got for my Son's puller. I was able to get
it through NAPA so I hope it is the better one.

Here is the website you were talking about;
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html

There are two versions and some models spanned the changover. 90-92 models will have the axle with the same height as the older models like the 82 series. The one from the 93 and up models will raise the front of the tractor up 2-3" higher. This later axle allows the use of the 48" or 54" decks. The...

I won't say the pump can't come out without removing the rear, but I wouldn't try it, or you will probably end up doing it twice. It is really hard to get the pump guided into the rear without messing up the gasket. The best way I have found is to have the rear tipped up so that you are going straig...

Might want to put some gussets in the corners.

Looking forward to it! Going to bring my diesel puller to play with again too.

You will have to remove either the engine or the transaxle to get the driveshaft out. Engine might be easier since you wont have to disturb the hydro linkage. It is a fairly involved job. I believe we have the service manual somewhere on this site that you can download. It would help to read over th...

I like that pliers idea! I have done it many times using two pairs of pliers. I tried one of the tools like Mike posted, but I
wasn't impressed with how it worked and went back to using pliers.

Only 986 I know of is a big IH farm tractor. I'm guessing he meant to type 982. Apparently CCC built 982s with front hydraulics and rear pto and while the model code on the tag read 986, the hood decal was still 982.

Here is a thread I started a while back;viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1385&p=19480&hilit ... net#p19480

TP tools has really good deals on cabinets.

I have never had a problem with the 82 series fans. They seem to be a lot more flexible and hold up much better than the ones for the earlier models. The earlier ones seem to break if you even look at them funny. I took an 82 series fan and cut the blades down (to clear the hyd cylinder) and put it ...

Ken,
I can't really say one is better than the other. I just figured that like everything else, they don't make them like they used to. But on the other hand, an older one has more chance of being worn out.

I have done the trick of drilling a small hole in the dust shield, cleaning them out, then injecting new grease in and sealing the hole with RTV. I have been running one of these on my diesel
puller for several years now. It is one of the older style though.

All colors are invited!

Ben,
You have to hold some pressure on the gears as you rotate them. That will rub the blue off in where the main contact is. You can see that in my pic that Ken posted.

The substitute bearing I was talking about is SKF 204RY2.

Ken, Have you even taken a stock one apart? Anyone else? I'd like to see what they look like. I often thought the shell was a seperate part. But I had thought they were a true thrust bearing.

You and everyone else. Cub Cadet has an exclusive contract on that bearing with the manufacturer. Some guys have found a substitute angular contact bearing and made it work, but it isn't a true thrust bearing. I haven't heard any reports on how long they will last though. I'm trying one in my son's ...

The book does say the pinion, but unless you have some kind of scope, you can't see it unless you take the carrier out. I do have a scope and I use it to verify, but I read the pattern on the ring gear to make the adjustments.

I usually polish the pinion shaft with emery cloth so the bearing will slide on and off easily.

Do you have a lathe now? I made a bracket for mine to mount a die grinder to the tool post. I did it for grinding valves, but I have found other uses for it as well.

I remember someone on the old site did something like that. As I recall, they bought a set of riveted S10 pads and drilled out the rivets then riveted the lining to the Cub Cadet backing plates. I don't think they were necessarily the exact same size and shape, but were close enough and they were ch...

Some guys have successfully relined the external brake pads using lining and adhesive from McMaster-Carr. If you are adding them, I would use rotors and calipers from an 82 series with an aluminum rearend. These should be easier to find and cheaper to get pads for than the ones from the earlier mode...

I had my numbers confused. There is no RV17YC4. There is an RV15YC4 which replaced the RV15YC. The RV17YC is what is currently recommended for the opposed twins.

To back up what Tom said; I'm pretty sure the difference in the two champion plugs is that the RV17YC4 is designed to work with the wider gap.

Prussian Blue is what the pros use. You should be able to get a small tube at an auto parts store. Some types of grease will work as long as they are fairly opaque.
This might help;
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/ ... tterns.pdf

Congrats! I got 4th in the 1150 diesel class.

You could leave the internal brake connected to the clutch pedal as stock. That would function as your parking brake and general stopping. Then connect the external brakes to seperate pedals to give steering brakes.