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I figure when the frame wasn't NLA in the past, you could order a replacement so I would consider using a used same part number frame as a legit replacement.

you'll probably have to go by the spec number. Some of the early series II's didn't have the oil filter provision.

Bryan I know what you mean on the car thing. I'd just prefer to drive a lumina or camry around than drive a v6 mustang or charger.

There's a tiller they offered that had a briggs mounted on it and connected to the tractor by using the cat 0. If you have the rear pto they offered a couple tillers powered by your rear pto.

I'm definitely glad I was able to use hyd angling. It's a bear having to get off the tractor every time you want to change angles.

That's a pretty good idea. Someone good at fabbing could even make some type of mounting plate that mounts to the under side of the frame using existing bolt holes and then run a double pulley down from that.

I had to remove the three metric bolts holding the coupler piece to the engine pulley. That was the only way I could get the driveshaft to move off to the side to get everything to come out. I had the joy of doing it twice and will be doing it a 3rd time when I replace the rear coupler. yeah

I don't recall having to mess with the engine or engine cradle when I took my pto out. I think I did take the pulley and such off one at a time to give me the room otherwise it didn't have clearance but it was a year ago so maybe I'm forgetting something.

Thanks for the info BB I thought that's what you told me.

Thanks for the info. I can't use my current lift rod since it''s too short and it's straight. I pretended to order one and it showed a straight rod for the 782 and it showed a bent rod for the 1864. I wonder if they later came out with the bent rod as a replacement.

How long should the lift rod be for a 782? Mine that I just got is 27" and too short. I think it was maybe for a 149 etc... I"m thinking around 30" or so but an accurate number would help. thanks

I've got a 42" inch push blade for the 782. What is the correct length for the lift rod? I know the 27" rod that I have is too short. thanks

Since were on the topic of the driveline, my 1572 doesn't have the clutch thingy on the driveshaft. I believe BB had a regular super driveshaft modified to fit but can't remember maybe it didn't need to be modified. If I were to ever need to replace my driveshaft what part number driveshaft would I ...

My 1572 had the wobble and all I needed to do was change the bushings and a few other things. My input coupling does fit loose on the input shaft so I refrained from using it til I get the coulping ordered I figure as little as the drivetrain vibrates now it'll be even better with a new coupling wit...

I think Scott Murphy was one of the guys. He lives in Tennessee i believe. I think he and AJ are big buddies.

Do you have the correct pto switch? If so something could be wired wrong.

I was ready to give up on my driveshaft vibration problem until I finally noticed the engine was too far off to the right and it was badly misaligned. After moving the engine over it is pretty smooth except now I have to replaced the coupling it's wobbling some on the input shaft probably from all t...

They came out with the "slot in the side panel" change after they already started producing the diesels. I think they released a technical bulletin to put the slots in the side panels. My 1572 has them. I think you could cut the muffler slot yourself if you used the right equipement to avoid tearing...

There's a few members here that have just T'd them at the valve and it works fine no need to do anything else but add lines to the back and have them attach to the back of the Cat 0 if you're using one. I think Aaron at xtrememotorworks has pictures.

xtreme has a nice looking bumper that i want to get. i think you can hang weights on it also.

I went to start the diesel today and didn't have it plugged in and it just barely started after two trys. I need to run power to the cub shed this week. I nearly ran the battery dead so I'll definitely have to do this mod. It'll be pretty cheap for me since I already have the updated glow plugs from...

I didn't realize how easy that mod is I'll have to try that when I get the chance.

I plugged the heater in for an hour or so and was suprised to feel that the block was warm. It started pretty easily at 25 deg.

I have the 14400. I recommend taking the radiator hose off. I tried doing it with it still connected underneath the tractor but it was too cramped to get a good grip on the hose and heater to connect them.

Eden maybe between now and next summer you can snag another cub cadet and use that one for mowing duty then you wouldn't have to potentially swap pto's. It would be a good excuse to get another one! I've really learned alot by reading your guys' posts. Wish I had a reason to get one down here.

I've got to pick up some more zip ties so I think I'll try that or maybe another location where I can possibly leave the hood down.

I got the heater installed yesterday. Where do you guys run the cord?
I've got mine running out the left bottom corner of the grill.

I'm pretty sure that strap is for the supers. It connects that outer attachment arm to the a lift arm to help reinforce it from impacts like ramming a snowbank with the blade etc...

Not without some modifications but a few guys on here have done it.

That thing is awesome!