Cub Cadet Collectors dot com

You don't need the rear "pegs" as you called them. You just need 2 bolts on each side. One bolt on each side will have a threaded hole, while the other will need a nut on the inside.

Does pretty good for not having weights and chains!

Are you buying it to use or resell? I would think it would be worth $150.

Bill,
The whole rearend won't work. You can take the carrier out of the hydro and put it in your gear drive.

If you are lucky, the hydro may be from a later tractor and have the heavier carrier like the one on the right in this photo;

For touch ups and painting wheels and attacments on working machines Krylon Almond is real close to all three of the original IH whites.

I bet if they had Midwest Super Cub build them one of their monster Kohler Commands it would go a lot faster yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ-7GDfOWkc&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCgARILl33o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kg4MxdVurqU&NR=1&feature=fvwp They have to be making ...

Cover the tractor with a tarp and put a space heater under the tarp.

Ernie,
Did you try Dennis Kirk?

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/common/Frontpage.jsp

I used to buy a lot of parts from them to keep my antique snowmobile running. They have a lot of universal parts that can be adapted to many machines.

BB has been a member since the beginning but he has never posted. Maybe someone should send him an email light a fire under him?

I think some people just want to "belong". I know a guy who has a JD license plate on the front of his truck, wears a JD hat and even has a JD wallet, but the only piece of JD equipment he owns is a lawnmower.

Geezer,
You don't need to remove the dash. All the linkage you need to work with is under the tunnel and fenders.

Paul, I'm not sure if the CCC emblem was even used that long. I didn't think they started using it till after the IH ag line was sold to Tenneco. Before that CCC sold the tractors to IH who then sold them to the dealers. So I'm pretty sure tractors built between 81 and 85 still used IH emblems. So t...

The little "L" shaped piece behind the arm that the cable hooks to is what sets the max RPMs. To adjust, loosten the bolt and rotate the L shaped piece so it limits how much the spring is stretched. The different holes are only to adjust the sensitivity and should not have a significant effect on ma...

Bryan, If you look at the speed control plate you will see there are two cables going to it. One is the throttle (the lower one I believe), and the other is the shut off (upper). If you work the throttle and watch the action of the cables you should be able to figure out which is which. When the thr...

Reset your camera to the smallest image size and you'll won't have trouble posting photos. That is probably true, but if you ever intend to print one of your pictures, you will be better off with the higher resolution. Having said that, I have taken thousands of pictures since I first got a digital...

Brain,
With tractors you normally don't need to know the year like you do with cars. Sometimes you do need the serial number to get the right parts.

I'm pretty sure looking at the side of the tractor, you would stand to the left of the tag and tilt your head to the right to read it.

David,

Here is some good reading on Cub Cadet clutches;

http://www.gardentractorpullingtips.com/clutch.htm

Early 782s didn't have float in the rockshaft, so it may not have any there. The blade for the 82 series had the bracket on the blade with the slot where the lift rod hooks. These were added on the early 82 series because of not having float in the rockshaft like the earlier models.

Here are a some pics I had saved. I don't remember who they belonged to though.

I knew of a 782 that was like that. It had a 682 decal on one side and a low back seat, but it had hyd lift.

Roger,
I did it on an 882 which is the same D-600 15hp engine as your 1572. These mods should work on all the diesels, but I'm not familiar enough with the 1782 to say for sure about it. The 782D, 882, 1512, 1572, and 1772 should all be the same.

I sent Joe an email about the clutch disc. I had posted this question on the Yahoo garden tractor pulling forum also. I got an email from a guy named Scott Larkin and he told me that the OEM National seal can be gotten from this company; http://www.ibtinc.com/ I sent them an email and I'm waiting to...

Just like anything else done with equipment, a lot depends on the operator. We all know there are some people out there that could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet. There are a few companies out there that make plows for on bigger loaders. My Grandad had a blade on his Minneapolis U that has a ...

I guess these are still my best bet for clutch discs then;
http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/store ... cts_id=295

I'm running them in my diesel puller and the work pretty good.

Joe,

I sent him an email a week or more ago about another subject and haven't heard back from him. I'll do a little more digging.

I thought one of you had told me you were making replacement clutch discs?

Matt,
I have seen where guys have used 3 point hitch balls too.

Matt,
Nothing came up. We sell SKF seals at work and I didn't find anything by dimensions in our catalog.

Steve,
I haven't done anything yet. Unless I find an incredible deal on a used one, I probably won't get one till next summer or later. I'm even looking into the possibility of a deckover ATV trailer.

Does anyon have an aftermarket part number for the trans input shaft seal on a gear drive? The IH number is 385076R91. I believe the one for the aluminum transaxle is the same. The bearing is the same part # so I'm not sure why the seal would be different. The seal part # for the aluminum trans is 7...