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If the block has 'K301' cast into the PTO end you could bore that to the K301 standard bore, and then I think you'd also need a K301 crank, in addition to a new rod and different oil pan.

Ok, fine...but I'd be concerned about it going rancid and what it might do to the rubber in the tire. I'll stick with my washer fluid...

J Hayes wrote:I have often wondered why someone hasn't tried good old veggie oil from the local restaurant they can remove animal fat for fuel At least it would be free

It's less dense than water, so it is not as effective for weight, given the same volume.

Dbaumanjr wrote:I replace the fasteners with stainless.

I would not use them if I were you...most hardware-store SS fasteners are about as soft as Grade 2 steel bolts, and thus are nowhere near as strong as the Grade 5 bolts that are used just about everywhere on a CC.

McMaster-Carr is the first place that comes to mind.

A couple of piece of a latex or nitrile glove between the socket and fastener work pretty good.

All of mine have washer fluid in them. If you have outdoor pets it might be better to use the RV antifreeze, as it should be non-toxic. You don't want them drinking washer fluid it if you happen to have a bad day and lose a bunch of it. I would also recommend tubes so you can't knock a tire off the ...

I have used PPG Shop Line and I'll likely use it again the next time I need to paint a tractor. I was very happy with the colors.

Sounds like you went to a Cub Cadet dealership and not a CaseIH dealership.

I think as far as the Commands go, it is a carb and governor spring change. Also, I've heard there's a stop bolt in some of the 18 hp carbs that keeps the butterfly from opening all the way; removing that supposedly makes it a 20 hp. If I'm not mistaken the 22 and 23 hp engines have a different carb...

bcuster wrote:Is there a part number for the 5 gal bucket by chance??

Just walk into a CaseIH or Case dealership and ask for a 5 gallon bucket of Hytran.

The seals are something like $4 each and really easy to replace...this isn't the time to get lazy. You won't be happy if you put it all back together without changing them and having a leak and having to take it back apart to change the seals. Now is the time to do it.

It's not gonna fit unless you modify it. You'll be time and money ahead getting the correct QA-36A or QA-42A that will fit your 149.

Did you change the reduction gear in the CI rear to one from a super?

At one time I was going to use one of those NAPA Gold filters, until I discovered that the OEM filter is actually slightly cheaper.

Nice finds, Carl!

Actually, I did think of design flaw in the aluminum rear...those cantilevered front mount tabs. The front mount of the CI rear is a much better design. If they would have done something similar to the CI rear, I suspect we would not be seeing so many broken rearends. Also, the one in my 1872 didn't...

There's nothing really 'wrong' with the aluminum rears if they are maintained properly and used as designed. The problem is, they usually aren't. If the bolts that hold it to the frame stay tight, there are no problems. My 782 and 782D both have aluminum rears, and they're going to remain that way f...

The carrier and pinion shaft are the same, the big reduction gear on the pinion shaft is not. An 1810 is still an aluminum rear and isn't going to be any better than the rear you currently have in there.

I don't see why not.

Lonny-

A lot of your problem is likely that the cylinder(s) have too much stroke and/or are improperly placed. You want the stroke of the cylinder to be the limiting factor or 'stops' in either direction if possible, and not the rest of the structure.

1. Anti-rattle springs
2. See #1
3. They go between the basket pulley and the friction disc
4. 3
5. About 120 degrees apart, but just leave them out...they'll come out on their own anyway. BTDT.

That has square ways, so it's probably an Atlas.

On a super, he'd have to deal with removing/blocking off the internal brake, unless he could rig it up such that the left pedal used the internal brake as a parking brake, and the right two pedals maintained their function as independent disc brakes. Hydro rears are pretty worthless it seems...no on...

For simplicity I'd keep looking for an external brake one. Put in a want ad here...those are just about worthless, you can probably find a good deal.

Leave the spacers in there.

The reason I made my clutch driver nearly 4.5" long was so that I didn't run into the problem you did. That way I wouldn't have to make a custom hanger bracket and stuff.

You're almost there now!

Nope...you need a dedicated pump.

Yeah, too lean and it melted part of the piston. Is that near the exhaust valve by chance?

Never re-use an aluminum connecting rod; they have a finite life span. For the price of a new one it's not worth taking a gamble on the old one lasting.

mjbkm1 wrote: I dont understand is if the wheel stops weren't designed for a 60" then why sell the dang deck in the first place .....???????

It would have been MUCH cheaper to add the washers and be able to use the axle than either re-design the axle or design a different deck.

In my experience, an adjustable timer would not help...the amount of time needed for the glow plugs depends on ambient temperature, engine temperature, and perhaps a few other things. My 782D takes from 5-10 seconds in the summer, depending on conditions and if it's been run within the past few hour...