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Dag, I think that there were around 5 small rings, 6 or 7 large ones, the bottom seal with spacer, top of commutator seal and for some reason I had an O ring left over and a large ring. All the rings used are not the o shape but are square. It is the John Deere kit #AM107078 that I think everybody u...

I did mine last week but didn't use the shims and I hope I'm okay. I didn't diassembble the commutator and I think that is where they are needed. I need to look at the cyclops & 72 manuals. I used the Hydraguide book instead. I purchased my JD kit online and it was about $45 shipped to my door. I di...

The cylinders can be rebuilt. Put them in a lathe, cut the end off, replace the O ring and reweld. Vince O had one done I think. Maybe he will chime in.

Todd, If your using it as a mower you will love it. It will mow better then any cub ever built and it is the only thing I mow my front yard with. On the early ones like this one, the deck rides the ground on casters up front and rollers on back that will stripe the yard. I had to rebuild the rollers...

I had pretty good luck with putting them in a drill press and then use a 4" grinder to reshape them. I'll post pics if I can ever figure that out.

BK, the first 7 numbers are the machine code. It probably starts with 205 which means it is a lawn tractor then the following 4 tell what model you have. A 129 should be 0046, 0220,0221,0222 or 0223. I think that the U stands for US built (not sure on that) and the following numbers are the serial n...

Just pull it off and put new bearings in it. I did mine and it takes (2) 6206 double sealed bearings that any bearing store has or I got a 10 pack off of evilbay for $28.

Lookin good Vince! Will it be at Midland plowday this fall?

I got it figured out. The kill wire has two diodes in it to keep them from gound each other out and the new harness that comes with the mags doesn't have them in it. The original harness had one of them shorted causing it to ground out. I put the original mags back in and left the kill wires off and...

Thanks, Vince. I need to call you this weekend anyhow. I re-adjusted the mags, "as per the manual" and I now have spark but it still won't run. I wonder if the keyway could be shot? Whatcha think?

Okay guys. I have a 3165 with a 16HP Vanguard that I purchased not running. I pulled it into the shop and found that it is not getting any spark, pulled the tins but did not find any problems and even used a screwdriver to test for spark so I picked up 2 new mags. When I pulled the old ones I checke...

BB, I made new rollers for mine out of Sch 80 pvc, sealed bearings and a rubber hose, I think someone posted it on MTF. I will post some pics of that when I get a chance. I also have a NOS cat 0 hitch (model 365) for the 3000 series tractors with the disc brakes outside the frame that I may sell.

I mow with 3205, basically the same tractor with the Kawi motor. The 3000 series is by far the best cutting Cub ever built! It has a pto set up like the 400 series deere and the deck is shaft driven. I had to rebuild the deck rollers on mine because cub built them like crap. The front of the deck ri...

I think you may have other problems. The rag joints should last a pretty long time, even on a diesel. I don't think I would want a steel fan spinning 3600 rpm unbalanced between my legs. Looks like you did a nice job building it thou.

Kevin, the switch sends power out on terminal 19 to the dash element then back to the switch on terminal 17 and that orange wire goes to the GP's. The dash element is nothing but a resistor that limits the current to the GP's. You may have a problem in the ignition switch or the GP's and it's not pu...

I think top speed would be faster and you would loose power on the low end if you changed everything from the 1811 to the SGT.

I have a 1541 and it was a great machine until the governor gear broke and is now setting in the barn. I'm thinking that it is an 18 HP motor but only rated at 15HP. That has been a long time debate. I don't think there is anything wrong with the Hydro Gear pump if that is what it has. I think the p...

Congrats Jude, it looks awesome. I gotta renew my subscription to CCC again.

Same thing happened to me on my 1811. Bypass the pump because it's not needed if you keep your tank over 1/4 full. Did that 2 years/30 hours ago and she runs fine.

I use a refrigeration oil hand pump with a 1/4" hose and pump it in. I thought about pulling a slight vacuum on the rear and suck it in but the pump worked well. In case ya'll don't know, I'm da pee-on with the Freon!

Here's my all original April 1974 built 169. I'm the 3rd owner.

Nice find Jess. I don't think the 1811 came with the emblem in the light panel. That is one of the best mowing machines ever built I think.

Just contact Kwik-Way with the model number and they will email you the manual and what models it will fit.

I got a question on the serial numbers. My 169 is serial # 5071xx and would have been built in April of 74. If production ran with other models than mine should be an early one. How did they roll off the line? Thanks.

Vince, I was talking to David G. about my 882 and he said he replaced the upper and lower hoses on his with new ones that he got somewhere. He said he would look into where he got them. As far as the insulation goes we use a lot of Armaflex pipe insulation at work and it's pretty cheap so I may have...

982 wrote:My serial# 680142, I don't know the year.

That was built October 1980.

Vince, maybe you should sell me that 1512 you exported out of Georgia to buy some parts.

Who got the 1512 in Augusta?

I think I was the second call but he called me back and said he sold it. I hope he got his full asking price.

Here's my all original 982. Dual brakes and rear three point with tiller.