6 to 12

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clayhustler
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:33 pm
First and Last Name: mark cowans
Location: rockport , IN

6 to 12

Post by clayhustler »

Dad comes over. He is ready to covert his 52 farmall h to 12volts. Finally after years of begging him. I have looked around on youtube and other forums for pics and knowledge. Cant really find a good parts list to go to store with. I know whole kits are sold but wow, high dollar. There has to be somebody that knows a 1975 Chevy alternator, coil for a 82 jeep, resistor for a dodge...you get the picture. The only way dad will do it is with out the kit. I told him he might not get it! Please help anybody know? I have seen a link on here for a conversion for a M or super M. Are they the same as a H? Thanks for your help. Dad will thank you to

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SWilliams
Posts: 805
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
First and Last Name: Steve Williams
Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)

Re: 6 to 12

Post by SWilliams »

The wiring is about the same.

My suggestion is a bracket and belt kit like item number 181286100449 on (that auction site that shall not be named here)
That set allows you to get the alternator down enough that you don't need to cut the hood.

Parts wise
Any GM alternator in the 10SI series (74-82 or so) will work. ACDELCO Part # 3342112A, OEM 88864305(1976 Camaro 305 w/o AC, w/o rear defroster. 61 amps)
Ballast resister - any of the 2 terminal Chrysler style units like a NAPA #ICR13, Standard # RU11T, Airtex/Wells IL2 (1970 CHRYSLER, NEW YORKER, 440cid V8)
Indicator light - any small 12 volt light that is NOT grounded through a mount will work. Something like Radio Shack item 272-325 is ideal. Just buy a 12 volt bulb to fit.
Change the headlight and worklight bulbs to 12 volt. Bulb choice will depend on which lights you actually have. IF you have replaceable bulbs I suggest you run some heavier wire and use high output bulbs, they are so much better than stock candles...

I would also add a new switch for the lights as the current charge/light control won't be usable.

Pretty good write up here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/artic ... int195.htm but It's better to run the wire from terminal 2 back along with the wire from terminal 1 and connect it back on the ammeter on the same side you connect the lights. That way it senses voltage changes better and keeps up with current needs.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.


"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."

artc
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:56 pm
First and Last Name: Arthur Chester
Location: Middletown, CT

Re: 6 to 12

Post by artc »

just to add to the above reply, NAPA has a one wire S10 type alternator for about $46 after returning a core. on amazon, key in Hitatchi 14231. it's a smaller alternator of the 3 wire type, NAPA also has a 12 volt coil with internal resister IC15SB i believe is the part # around $25. i dont recall the part number for the alternator.

you need to use a one wire alternator if you have a mag on the tractor, because you only have a mag ground switch, not a 12V on and off for the exciter term.

hope that helps.

allenpezo
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:11 pm
First and Last Name: allen pezo
Location: Oklahoma City, OK

Re: 6 to 12

Post by allenpezo »

there is a few ways to go about this you can use a 12 volt generator like on a d17 allis chalmers it bolts right in place farmall adjustable pulley and all change the light bulbs to 12 volts and add resisitor to coil or install resistor type coil if its a magneto then your good or like others have said add a 10si delco one wire alternator with bracket and belt if alternator is used be sure to switch battery cables and make it negative ground instead of positive also the ampmeter wires will need switched from side to side the light switch and starter work fine on 12 volts

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