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I'd like to see pics of different types of driveshaft support bearings. I'm having some trouble with the clutch on my diesel because my setup isn't rigid enough
and it's letting the driveshaft move backward. So I'm looking for ideas on a different setup, or ways to improve what I have now. It is hard to tell from the pics, but the bearing is mounted to an "L" shaped bracket that bolts to the crossmember.

Todd, I did,t do it on my 30 cu, but i need too, but a guy told me that he machined a spacer at the rear coupler and the drive shaft, that took the pressure off the drive shaft bolts and it kept every thing from moving to the rear.

Tood, btw i have a hanger bearing just about identical to the one you have and it pushes threw the bearing and lock collar, i even tooka couple of those split shaft locks like midwest supercub sells, but then my cross bracket flexes when i push on the clutch, i have the yellow spring too. I thing that spacer idea will solve you issue.

Terry,
I'm not sure I completely follow you. It sounds like you are talking about putting a spacer between the back of the spring and the coupler. I don't think that will help me.
I'm more concerned about taking pressure off the input pinion. The Original reduction housing I'm running relies on a snap ring
to hold the pinion laterally, and I'm afraid I may be flexing that snap ring when I push the clutch pedal.

I did come up with an idea that may work. I'm going to try a 2 bolt flange bearing like this;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1280wt_688
And mount it to a piece of 2" channel iron with a hole in the center for the shaft to pass through. That should hold the shaft both vertically and laterally.

Todd, basicly you have to machine a pill to put between the rear of the drive shaft coupler and the pinion shaft, it would just butt betwwen the drive shaft and the pinion shaft, inside the coupler, its more to take the load off the coupler bolts or pins whatever you have, but if your saying that your snap ring is not able to take the strain, I would call midwest super cub and talk to Julian and see what he does. My opinion on the drive shaft hanger bearing is that the lock collar on the bearing isn't going to take the load any better. The side load is too much and the collar will slip, but that's just my opinion.

Todd, Terry, I doubt Julian will have much advice because I don’t think many people are using Original reduction housings.

What if you stiffen up the bearing support and or use the other style bearing you posted the link to so that part doesn’t move. Then what if you key the shaft some how so it can’t slide threw the lock collar. You could get a slightly smaller collar and turn down the shaft so it would lock into it, or you could just drill and pin it like everywhere else in the shaft.

I think the lock collar will take the load ok. If they are properly locked they can take a good bit of thrust (think how hard some of the pto bearings are to get off).
I think I may be ok now. I think I had the shaft pushed forward leaving some slack before it was pushing against the input shaft. I loosened the bearing mounting bolts then pushed the shaft back and retightened the bolts. Now the bearing doesn't seem to move much if at all. Next time I take the engine out I will probably change to the other style bearing just for peace of mind. I did get two of those flange bearings and I'm going to use one on the gas tractor I'm rebuilding now.

I did see several tractors at Columbus running the Original reduction housing. I talked to Kevin Vogel and he is looking into making overdrives or underdrives for in them so I think they will get more popular as time goes on.