Leaf Mill

[wdeturck]

I noticed the leaves I'm not going to rake(the wind gets rid of them by spring) and thought about this 20" leaf Mill I bought a few years ago.

Shows the size

It has a SN tag but I didn't know who made it and I found this ad for a 30" leaf mill made by
Jacobsen and that led to a site that had Jacobsen SN and I found the 26-20 M attachment for M&W listed. Any Ideas what M&W could mean?

Ad on E-bay

I have a right angle drive for an 80 cadet snow blower

This has a 1/1 ratio

This is a front PTO that had a clutch that was available for the Original and the early NF. I might be able to make this without a clutch

this would have a 3/2 for the Original or a 2/1 for the others.

[SWilliams]

M&W made a lot of stuff from the 40's and up. I think they are now under the Alamo group.
The problem is determining which M&W ag company they really meant.

[wdeturck]

The way it was listed the "M" and "W" appears not to be related. Definitively not M(Meinser) & W(Warsaw) which was a gear Company Incorporated in 1950 and made the IH M&H 9 speed transmission that year.

This Jacobsen unit was made in 1951. They had a similar unit 2620 A for Model "A". The 30"
walk behind was also made in 1951-52.

I think I can make a front mounted PTO and get it to line up with the leaf mill and see if I can get it turning before I try mounting it to see how fast or slow it will turn with the pulleys and gears I have. The front PTO might just stay on the Original Ted.

[wdeturck]

I moved the Front PTO and Leaf Mill over hereto show my progress. I ground the belt tension off the SB right angle drive and I will be able to mount that bracket with 4 bolts to the holes in the frame. I have 2 of them drilled and the bracket lines up with the drive pulley using some spacers on the 4 mounting bolts of the angle drive to move it out about a 1/4". I can adjust that bracket Right to Left to push it against the tensioner pulley.

I am going to take the front PTO and install the Original pulley on the crank as I can adjust the Leaf Mill belt tension to act as a clutch.

I will be able to slot the holes mounting the tensioner pulley and get another half inch of belt adjustment. I didn't think of mounting the tensioner like that till I went to take picture. I won't have room for the tensioner if I used the PTO on the motor. I have to get the front PTO working an then see if I can turn the leaf mill close to the correct speed. The right angle drive can be changed to 1/2 and 2/3 ratios. Looked in parts book and it may be possible to switch them around and make 2/1 and 3/2 ratios.

[wdeturck]

Here is my Original Ted with the completed front PTO. I have the pulley to the left but I will flop it over as I need it on the right.

I didn't have to use the tensioner(shown in picture) but it will work with a 31" belt but the 30" belt has enough tension when the bolts are all tight. I left a piece of all thread rod in the upper frame holes that are available and the 4 holes mount the PTO.

This shows the 3/4" holes that are on the mounting bracket

I'm trying to find out what the speed of the PTO pulley is when the RPM's are 3600 before I but the grill back.

[VBOB]

That is looking good, I just love seeing these old attachments being put to use.

[wdeturck]

Ted is now "PTO Ted" as he has an Engine PTO, Rear PTO with IH right angle drive with flat belt pulley, Front PTO that is control by the the engine PTO(I have to find Snow Blower gears 1/2) and Wheel PTO which can run either direction depending which wheel you put it on. I have to get the speed reduced before I can play with the leaf mill.

[wdeturck]

I have a use for the front PTO that turns at engine speed. I have a Roto-Hoe chipper shredder that has a sick 5 HP B&S and I think I can the shredder part working on the front PTO.

Had it running but it's on it's last leg.

I had this setup running and the belt length seemed about right.

I was going to use the big wheels but think I will put smaller wheels on the old axle. Just have to make a frame from the PTO bracket to the cipper/ shredder .

Dose anyone know how to get holes in bed rails I don't have a burning torch or I would burn them in. Can I heat an area with a propane torch

Home made Front bracket

This is a very strong bracket that was on an Original that I kept. I have to relocate the holes and will use the two frame holes I left open. It rests against the grill. I'm sure I can use it for something that I might mount to the front.

[albie]

Good luck putting holes in bed rails Geezer, they will burn up drill bits long before a hole appears...torch is probably most practical....unless you have a metal fab shop nearby, they could punch holes with an ironworker machine.

[wdeturck]

Paul Funk sent me an E-mail and said he remembers using masonry bits. I have lots of the 1/4" bits laying around so I'm going to play around trying those. If I can get 1/4" holes I will try to open them up to 1/2" as I only need 6 1/2" holes.

That Roto-Hoe 500 has shredded/mulched a lot of trees since I had it so mounting it to the Cub will make it mobile and easier to store and should only need 2 bolts to hook it up.

[wdeturck]

The Roto-Hoe is mounted up front and works real well with the front engine PTO. I'm on plan "C" for the wheels. It's to heavy for any of the wheels I have and will sink in the soft sod. I'm working on a way to lift it now. I'm going to use that other front mount I have.

The bed rails don't drill very easy but the carbide masonry bits work if you start with a 1/4" one and go 3/8" and 1/2" and can drill from both sides using oil to keep it cool(I use PB Blaster) and resharpen the bits. Good tungsten bits would probably work but I know regular drill bits will get to hot.