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The idea is to mount my new rototiller to the back of one of my lawn mower so it don't beat me to death. so I came up with a plan, I have an old 12 volt gate opener that still works and it will go in and out about 18 inchs, I don't need it to go that far but I already have it and it will lift about 300 LBS.
So this is what I came up with this far, I now have to make the mounts on the Rototiller,

I started with this 1/4 steel plate 8 X 14 inch and welded angle iron on it to hold the lower end of the gate opener,

Whoa!!

You need to find yourself a Cub to restore...

As Red Green (TV personality well known in Canada & parts of the US) says: "If they don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy!"

Looking forward to the finished project pic,

Chef
I agree more pics, a cub cadet would make a better starting point and keep up the good work!
Joe

Ben , speaking of Red Green , I see Dave is already using Red Greens favorite construction / repair material in the form of duct tape on the seat .
I once adapted a sears 5 hp rotor tiller to mount to the rear sleeve hitch of a 124 cub cadet .
A little noisy but it did save your arms and back....

Only suggestion I have is to reverse the tiller so the tines are rotating the opposite direction of tractor motion. They till better and generally bounce less.

well I got it done today and it works fine, it took me a little longer than I thought it would but it is built extra strong,
and I think I found an old cub cadet not sure what it is are if it runs, the guy wants 200 bucks for it,

Nice Job. The tines need to go in reverse direction. With the tractor not having any weight the tiller will push the tractor in hard ground. Transmission on the Sears mower will probably not hold up to the tiller pushing the tractor.

I have ran a Cub Cadet that had a 36 inch tiller and would push the tractor without any weight.

Just my thought.

Thanks for the pics!

Well, if someone was to undertake that kind of 'off the beaten path' project, I don't think they could've done a better job...

$200. for a running vintage Cub seems reasonable to me. I would buy one at that price not running if I'm in need of several NLA parts.

Cheers,

If it looks like there is going to be a problem I can turn the tiller around with just a little more welding and drilling, and I may do it anyway just to see if it works better,
so far it is working good,