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This works great and was extremely easy to do. Once you remove the engine from your cub, use two of the arms on the engine stand in the holes that hold the starter generator bracket ( 3/8-16NC thread )

Since I didn't have the correct length bolts on hand, I used an extra set of small block chevy starter bolts and a whole stack of washers to bolt the arms to the engine. I snugged them in place and then lifted the engine to the engine stand and put the nuts on those bolts.

The engine stand is one I purchased at Harbor Freight about 4 years ago for $40. Works great for positioning the engine.

It's one of theose extremely simple things that worked even better than I thought. I have seen pictures of other forum members working on their engines this way, so no credit to me, it was somebody else's idea. I just took the pictures

Jeff

Revision "A"
Since my wife wasn't around when it was time to remove the engine from the stand, it was time to improvise. Using the bottom top engine stand mounts, I put in two pieces of 1/2" all thread I had, a piece of 2 x 3 across the all thread, a piece of 2x3 under the flat side of the oil pan and a piece of 3/4 board under the dipper so I would have some support when I removed the upper 3/8-16 bolts holding the engine in place.

Hmmm...

When I go to put an engine in, or remove it from the engine stand, I always bolt the bracket to the engine, then lift the whole thing up, and slip it in the stand... and reverse the process to remove... that way I'm not suspending an engine while tryin' to start bolts 'n stuff...

Dave,
When I assembled the engine stand, it was a real bugger to get the rubber grips on handle that lets you rotate the engine. That's why I put the engine onto the assembled stand.

I agree if the rotation handle is easily removable, that would be easier.

Jeff