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I don't weld or have a welder, so I came up with this method of repairing the trunion on a hydro transmission. Using a hacksaw and or a Dremel tool with cutoff wheels, I cut two plates to the shape of an undamaged trunion, from flat stock about the same thickness as the trunion. I then clamp the plates in place on the top and bottom of the trunion and drill 4 holes to install some 4-40 screws. The ends of the plates are beveled to provide clearance for the slots in the damper spring plate. You can tap the holes in the bottom plate for the screws, or use nuts and lock washers on the screws, or both. If you tap the holes, go easy, a 4-40 tap will break/snap pretty easy, but it is about as hard to get the broken part out as it is to get a bigger one out. Clean and degrease the two plates and the trunion and put a thin layer of JB Weld or other epoxy on the two plates, put them on the trunion and screw them together. I put some light weight oil on the screw threads to help keep the epoxy from sticking to them in case they need to be removed. After the epoxy completely sets up, clean up the "squeeze out" on the inside of the cut out, reassemble everything, adjust the linkage if necessary, and you are back in business. 1 other thing, If the cam plate is loose of wobbles on its pivot, there is a plastic bushing on that pivot that can be replaced and that will go a long way toward fixing the looseness, but be aware that is probably the most expensive piece of plastic you will ever buy, in the $10 + range as I type this. I have also used 1/4" keystock for this same repair using epoxy and screws, but like the two plates better.

Paul nice job on the trunnion repair. That should be good for at least another 40 yrs of service.

How is this repair doing Paul? Any chance you have an updated picture of the wear and tear on this fix you did? Looks like it would last a long time!

Mike.
I don' know how long it will hold up. The first one I did was several years ago, and that tractor found another home a year or two later. This one was done on a 1650 that moved on a week or so later, but I have no reason to believe it wouldn't last as long as a welded repair.

Here is a picture of my trunion but it has 2 rivets where the wear occurs. Is that a change by IH or was that a dealer or PO modification. It seemed to work on this 149.

Paul B,

Is this repair still holding up? If so, what do you think of just attaching one plate (rather than the two) to the top of the existing plate?

As I stated above, the tractor found a new home just after this was done (a year and a half ago), so I do not know how the repair is holding up, but I have no reason to believe it is not still good. Use 2 plates, to help keep the damper springs and pins centered in the opening.

I have a 109 that i got from a guy in Jacksonville. I got it running yesterday and low and behold the hydro lift for deck and sleeve hitch works fine.
My question is the following.
1. do i need to remove the transaxle from the tractor to repair trunion?
2 is that what is making the tractor have eratic speed control. he told me the trunion need to be repaired when i purchased it.
Thanks

1. I think it is easier if the transaxle is out of thetractor.
2. Probably, hard to say for sure without seeing the tractor in operation.