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A very worthwhile upgrade for the diesel powered Cub Cadets is to add the newer permanent magnet gear reduction starter. This starter has nearly twice the power of the original one the tractors came with. Here are a couple part numbers to look for; Kubota # 37560-63011, or 37560-63012. The OEM starters were made by Nippondenso and their part #s are 228000-0980, or 228000-0981. Aftermarket versions of these starters are available on ebay for around $125.00. As long as they are made to replace one of the above numbers, they should work. It does take a bit of work to install, but not much more than replacing the original starter. The hardest part of the whole project is getting the old starter off. This procedure should work for the 782D, 882D, 1572 and 1772. I don't know if it works on the 1782 and 2182 as they have a different engine mounting arrangement.

Here is where we are starting with the original starter. To install the new starter we will start by removing the old one. Take out the 4 bolts that go through the rubber mounts and lift the engine as high as you can without unbolting anything else. I used a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to keep from denting the pan. If you have an engine hoist you could use it as well.
<missing photo from original posting>

The nose cone of the original straight shaft starter interferes with the motor mount plate when removing. You need to then loosen the mount plate from the side of the engine block. It is held on to the block with 4 bolts (16MM heads) going horizontally in to the side of the block. These bolts are a real bear to get to. The upper 2 you can get with a socket and extension with the engine lifted. The lower ones you have to get from underneath with an open end wrench. It helps to push the engine toward the left side as far as you can. You could get the engine up a little higher by unbolting the fan bracket. I raised mine up till the fan hit the fan shroud. I tried to cheat by disassembling the old starter in place. It didn't work. Even the bare nose cone won't come out. You could break or cut it to get it out if you don't care about destroying it. Next put the gear reduction starter in place and mark where the hole needs to be. Then drill/cut the 1-1/4" hole for clearance for the battery cable terminal. You can drill this hole in place with a 1 1/4" hole saw and an angle drill. I decided since the plate was already loose, to just remove it completely and cut the hole in a drill press. Now you can bolt the plate back on the block and install the new starter. <missing photo from original posting>

There is a little white wire attached to the new starter. It is not used unless you need to power something while the starter is cranking. I just tucked it in behind and zip tied it fast. You may have to make a new longer positive battery cable as the old one may be too short. I was able to re-route mine above the oil filter and it was ok. <missing photo from original posting>

Now you can bolt the plate back on the block and install the new starter. <missing photo from original posting>

There is a little white wire attached to the new starter. It is not used unless you need to power something while the starter is cranking. I just tucked it in behind and zip tied it fast. You may have to make a new longer positive battery cable as the old one may be too short. I was able to re-route mine above the oil filter and it was ok. This new gear reduction starter does not have a nose cone so it will go in and out without loosening the mounting plate from the block. You may still need to take the rubber mounts loose and lift the engine slightly to remove the starter in the future. The new starter spins the engine over much faster and makes better use of the available battery power. Credit for most of this information goes to Joe Persoon. He gave me the starter numbers and explained how to do the install. I simply followed his instructions and added some pointers from my own installation.


Thank you Tom for the original posting.

These are a few things I did different from your modification.
1. Able to remove the original starter without loosening the engine mount from the block. It took a little twisting to do.
2. It was easier to drill the 1-1/4" hole with the engine mount in place by removing the exhaust manifold/muffler from the engine which gave clearance to use a regular 1/2" drill and holesaw.
3. Pressed a 1-1/4" plastic 'Cap Plug' (saved from new hydraulic hose) into 1-1/4" hole and coated the starter's battery connection with RTV.

Bob G.

I've just completed the starter upgrade for my 782d. The teeth on the starter are not engaging the flywheel properly. I can move the flywheel slightly and then the starter can engage and start the tractor. Has anyone else had this problem with this upgrade? Does anyone have any suggestions to help me with this issue?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

I just had the same trouble on my 1772,got tired trying to deal with it and put a new orig.design starter on and it works ex. I think maybe the after-market suppliers of the starters are getting lax in the quality control?

I just completed Todd's starter and Glow plug upgrades on my 1572. Its was taking much to long to heat the old GPs and starter was dragging,
after 29 yrs of use. The exception to Todd's Starter upgrade was, I used a chisel and broke the nose cone off the old starter and was able to remove it with
ease. I did loosen mounts on starter side of motor and lift motor mount with pry bar to gain access to the lower starter mount bolt. I also drilled the 1-1/4 hole in place by removing the exhaust and exhaust manifold. I squirted rust buster on glow plugs AND manifold bolts
once a day for a week prior to attempting to remove them, Worked like a charm, They came out with no issues. I also used ANTI_SEIZE lube
when i installed new GPS and manifold.
I want to give a high five to Todd and Bob G. for sharing in detail how it was done.

Chuck, welcome, and great job! Stick around, we like people that post good things, and especially with pics!