Oil out the carb - 1650

[ReicheP]

I assume my 1650 has the original motor in and never been wrenched. I'm getting a decent drip of oil out the carb. So if it makes snow plow season it's coming apart. Does this engine have a breather and perhaps it's clogged? It pushes no "blue" out of the exhaust.

[Klapatta]

Paul, I'm thinking a worn intake valve guide ?
Normally one would think that only the exhaust guide is prone to wear.
Seems to me I recall Joe M. telling me one story of his to the contrary, perhaps he can chime in on this one
Or yes perhaps the breather assembly is not assembeled correctly and spewing oil on to the carb.
I have to refer to the manual every time I assemble one of those things

[JMotuzick]

Ken
I don't remeber a worn guide, but I am starting to forget things ... Dam crs... I do remember a broken adjuster/tappet, from last fall on a 100.

[Klapatta]

Ok I'm grabbing straws now
I think it was two years ago at Colchester when we were talking about your cherry 126 ?

[Klapatta]

Joe,
Sometimes I fell like a charter member ! Maybe that was Engine Mike.
Anyhow, this is how the breather is supposed to be assembled, that little oil drain dow hole facing toward the bottom is real important

breather.gif (18.42 KiB) Viewed 4628 times

It's really coming down now, updates to appear on the weather thread later!

[ReicheP]

Folks thanks for the suggestions, breather will be checked this weekend. Looks like the 1811/450 is gonna get a work out tomorrow morning!

[ReicheP]

Question, does the reed valve "usually" fail? Is it suggested I buy new gasket, reed valve before R&R since I don't want this tractor with blade taking time off?

[Klapatta]

The reed valve is nothing more than a stamped thin piece of spring steel that opens and closes against the breather plate and from what I have seen failures are rare. They are not a lot of money. Far more common is for the breather element getting gunked up and degraded from heat over time causing the spring chamber to fill with oil. One could probably make a new element from a couple peices of coarse skotch brite if they had to, but I have never tried that yet. The tube seal will degrade from heat and age as well. Also a brather assembly that is not assembled exactly correctly will not function as designed and I have seen quite a few like that so it is something to be on the lookout for as it is taken apart. The small drain hole facing up or the reed valve and baffle on the wrong side of the breather plate are a couple examples. I took one apart like that once and the baffle had chewed itself into the valve springs! Even the valve spring retainers were wrecked.
It's very easy to over tighten and warp the cover plate, no more than a couple turns on the nut after contact should do it. I like to use a nylock nut to make sure it stays in place. If someone beforehand over tightened the plate it may be necessary to straighten out the indentation made in the center of the plate. I like to use silicon onn those gaskets for a leak proof seal and easy future disassembly

[JMotuzick]

Ken
Your right! My 126 did have a bad valve guide, I can't recall intake or exhaust. Again damn CRS…

[ReicheP]

I cleaned the oil return on the breather and I "believe" my oil issue is gone. Thanks for the suggestions folks!

[Klapatta]

Well, that's good news
One thing not mentioned in the thread is a worn exhaust valve guide can cause excess pressure in the valve spring chamber and force oil out of the breather, another is a worn intake valve guide can cause an otherwise perfectly good engine to be a smoker as the oil can be drawn into the combuston chamber and burned. Please let us know if the matter has been licked for sure !

[ReicheP]

Just by lack of oil drip out the side and onto the ground indicates a solution. Anyway, next spring I plan on pulling and going through the motor, even if it's in a 1650!