Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:57 pm

I see what you are saying, unfortuneatly for me my tractors history is unknown, but from the looks of it I would say it has not been used all its life, I would guess it was repainted thoroughly, but very poorly maybe 10 or more years ago and has seen little use after that, it was then disassembled by the previous owner and the engine/covers repainted nicely in the wrong yellow, so this is the mess that I now take over. The frame is covered in spots of rust bubbling up through the paint and the sheet metal fenders have runs and rust coming through in spots. Serious rust problems exist with the cubby hole under the seat which is just brown, but not rusted through and from the underside where the layers of sheet metal are sandwiched together between the fenders and central section is has started to open out from rust. How do you guys treat this, drill out the welds, sand blast and reweld or just clean out best as you can, treat the rust and fill with paint?

Sorry for the long description, I will get a photo or two, but my tractor does not have that honest weathered/used look from years of work, but more a mix of nasty repaints with brushes!! I really enjoy bodywork/painting as it makes such an impact, when it gets finished I will need to try to source the bonnet/dash decals to finish it off.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:20 am

Just been having a look at the clutch, first obvious thing is the friction plate has a chunk missing by one of the drive pins, I am also missing the anti rattle? Springs, and I suspect the throw out bearing has had it, hopefully the release lever is not too damaged from the release bearing.

If anyone has any serviceable clutch parts they don't mind selling I am interested, only thing is I am in the UK so guess it involves a trip to the post office for you, but it would really help me out as I am unable tosource these in the UK.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Klapatta » Sun Sep 24, 2017 5:53 pm

Well here's my experiences with these units.
Firstly a new disc is needed. The assembly needs to be taken apart using a compression tool or a lathe.
Then the discs have most likely need to be resurfaced.
The throwout bearing thing is next on the list. A Cub Cadet specific item, and expensive.
Then you discover the drive shaft and spirol pins are worn.
After that you may find that the clutch fork has all kinds of wear.
My point is that for you given your location it may be best to go with the assembly you showed in earlier section of this thread.
It could well be the shortest and fastest way out of the dilemma. They may even be able to provide a complete assembly with a spring that is much closer to the factory setting. The anti rattle springs are not absolutely necessary, another Cub specific part. But the may have that as well.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:01 pm

Maybe best to hold off on the clutch, see if I can get it functioning well enough to test the gearbox etc properly.

Klapatta - in my other thread about the gearbox input shaft bearings, which I thought seemed noisey, although I was spining the driveshaft with a relatively quite electric drill, you mention checking the lateral play, is this simply a case of holding the driveshaft and trying to pull/push it back and forth (clutch is all free to move as clutch pivot not attached) or does driveshaft etc need removing so I can pull directly on the input shaft? When I checked for any freeplay on the driveshaft I could not feel any movement or am I looking for very minimal play? Thankyou for all your help with my many questions.

Ha ha, silly me just looked up lateral, it means up/down, side to side? Does the driveahaft need removing to check for this or if there is play on driveshaft I know further checking is required to see if its between driveshaft and input shaft or the input shaft bearings?

Edit - Just had a look and I can feel no lateral movement, there is a very small in/out movement of the shaft, maybe 1mm, not really visible although it could be seen and felt, it sound and felt like the input shaft moving back and forth in the box rather than play on the coupler.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:49 am

I am having to Mai order some spirol pins as don't know where to get them locally, does anyone know what size the commonly needed ones are, for example spindle/steering arm, front axle bush pins, driveshaft and any other commonly needed ones when disassembling and rebuilding a 106?

Are the steering spindle one 3/16" x 1"1/4 parts manual says 5/16" if I read it correctly?

Pressure plate to driveshaft pin 1/4 x 1"1/8 ? I cant find the pin size for the rear of the driveshaft?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Klapatta » Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:39 pm

They are easy to trim to any size using a cutoff wheel. 1 1/2" would cover everything you may need to replace. 1/4" dia. is. is the norm but the steering knuckle uses 5/ I6". I prefer the stainless steel type myself.
93740a426l.gif

With the steering knuckle its best to convert over to a taper roll pin. But you will need to procure a taper pin reamer. Any good machine shop would have one. The tighter you pound it in the tighter it gets, I did all of mine like that 10-12 years ago, never had a bit of trouble since.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Thu Oct 12, 2017 2:41 pm

Thanks, are the front axle pivot pins 1/4" diameter as well? I saw the stainless ones, are there any drawbacks?

I read about the tapered reamer and pin solution,will probably try a spirol pin and when the tractor is up together may look into I futher.

I have been working on the fender panel, I though although rusty the cubby hole base under the seat was not rusted through, but since sand blasting I have a nice selection of small holes, I have also drilled the welds and opened out the seams at the sides which had rusted and expanded, hopefully weld them back up tomorrow and I think for now rather than cutting out the base I will just clean it all up and fill the holes as it is still structurally sound and this will never be a show winner!!
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Sat Oct 21, 2017 11:30 am

WP_20171020_13_52_01_Pro.jpg


Whoever painted my 106 must have heard the saying "you can't polish a t@rd", so they painted it instead!!!, this is what greeted me after a warm with a blow torch and a sharp scraper.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby dag1450 » Sat Oct 21, 2017 7:21 pm

I would generally say.... looking good. But....it really looks like a mess. :lol:
In an earlier post u said u blasted....r going to blast the hood? What type of setup do u have.... cabinet? Or a bucket outside? I really like blasting...it gives so much bang for your buck! Pics please. Keep up the good work!
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Postby Ianb » Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:01 am

It sure does look awful, I like sand blasting aswell, can make metal look almost new as well as giving a great key for primer. I just have a homemade setup from an old gas bottle, it works really well except I could do with a bigger compressor, which is why I got off what paint would come off with scraper easily first.

The wooden broom handle is a recent revision to try to stop getting a face full of sand.
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