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yay, got my 1650 home saturday and started working on her, finally got the engine running to find out she neeeds rag joints and the relief valves are spewing hytran out the top. need to find out what you guys do for these parts. I have access to a parts tractor, i think its a 127, would the relief valves from it work? or does the hydro lift on the 1650 mean i need valves from a hydro lift equipped pump? And what the heck do i do about the rag joints? thanks for the help in advance! y'all are the best! I sure miss the old site I know I've seen the answers to my questions there before
You need to see if you have automatic style or button type valves.do you have a lever on the rt tunnle cover? if so you should have button style.you can replace with either type but best to have both the same. they are the same weather you have hyd lift or manual.
I carry new and used valves on my web site. http://www.pattonacres.com
PATTON ACRES LLC Garden Tractor Salvage Yard
check us out online @ www.pattonacres.com
If they are leaking more chances are they are the auto valves. Like Rich said you can replace them with both types.
I like the auto type cause you can push the tractor when it brakes. Most time the button type, the flange Rich is talking about is broke off so youll have to remove the tunnel cover to push them down.
Remember I dont like hydros and really dont like Quiet lines! Hows the ISO mounts?
"It's a damn poor mind that can only think of one way to spell a word."
-Andrew Jackson
yeah they are the button type, so guess i'll pull the ones out of the other tractor and swap'em. iso mounts look fine thank heavens (atleast for now). appreciate the replies Rich n Vince! Rich ya got any rag joints? both of these look dry rotted. but i got the blade on her after work today so i could push up the leaf/compost pile into the middle of the pit, found that I need to do some trunion work so next weekend it's break out the welder time. I can see why ya dont like hydros much vince, but durn, that hydro lift is way better than building up muscles in my rright arm workin that blade and i'm pretty sure it'll lift the disks a whole lot easier to! so i'll sacrafice the work gettin her goin
Would bet that the driveshaft needs help..bet the ends are worn down and the brass bushings are shot. If the rags are gone, this is a sign the IOS mounts are trash and most likely the pan bolt holes are wollowed and the bottom of th epan is not square any more.
Grab the top of the engine...if you can rock it a bunch...it has all of these issues. You may even be able to nearly lift one side or the other up if the iso mounts and or bolts are trashed.
Q/L....still have 6 left in various stages of parting....most are headed to the scrap yard as soon as good parts are removed....
The Quiet Lines were the best selling line up of Cub Cadets for IH, while the iso mounts are pretty much shot when we find these tractors, one must keep in mind these are over 20 years old for the most part and probably are the original mounts. Years of heat cycling, vibration and being soaked in oil from lack of maintance have done them in. Many brands have them, including JD, Allis/Simplicity ect. IH might not have the best arrangement for damping the vibration, but there are not alone in trying this idea at the end of the single cylinder era in garden tractors. Opposed twins and later on the Vtwins are much smoother by nature and dont need iso mounts to keep from shaking the tractor appart. You can either go with the upgraded iso mounts from Cub Cadet or there is a mod using bushings from a Moog automotive sway bar linkage instead of the MTD part. Most of the IH era cubs I see still cutting grass around here in north central Indiana are one of the QL models, mostly 1450's I just bought a 1650 and I have a 1250 thats getting a 14hp put in it. Both will get new iso mounts and for the little we use them, they should last quite awhile. They are right that if the iso mounts are bad and the cub is run this way for awhile, it might need a new drive shaft and the parts that have the bronze bushings in them as the extra vibration can ruin them. Cheers Mike
yay, got my 1650 home saturday and started working on her, finally got the engine running to find out she neeeds rag joints and the relief valves are spewing hytran out the top. need to find out what you guys do for these parts. I have access to a parts tractor, i think its a 127, would the relief valves from it work? or does the hydro lift on the 1650 mean i need valves from a hydro lift equipped pump? And what the heck do i do about the rag joints? thanks for the help in advance! y'all are the best! I sure miss the old site I know I've seen the answers to my questions there before 
so i'll sacrafice the work gettin her goin
