Got started on the 149

[Scott C.]

OK, Only 7 days till plow day and I finally started on the 149.
Sure is handy to have a loader....
I put a new spirol pin in the rockshaft.

I broke the flat blade on my impact screwdriver trying to get the foot plate screws out.
So I took some nuts and welded them to the screw heads so I could use a wrench and they turned right out.

Tomorrow, pull the fenders, fix the trunion slot and start putting it back together!

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[J Hayes]

Thanks Scott for that nutty Idea of getting those screws out.-- Looks like you will be ready yet tonight ?
By the way I sure hope someone is collecting all the fine manuals and how to's in case of another crash.
Or don't ya see it as cublisticly feasible ?-- (bet there's a big word ya never heard)

[ksanders]

cublisticly?
That's a nice idea there. I usually end up grinding the heads off. I have a giant screwdriver that you can put a wrench to but half of them still don't come out. I will definitely be trying this method next time

[wdeturck]

I often wondered if those impact tools that you hit with a hammer would work on those foot rest screws. You can buy them cheap at harbor freight and they always worked good on stubborn nuts & bolts using 6 point impact sockets. I didn't replace mine after the fire.

[Farmallgray]

Geezer,
That is what I have always used on them.

[Scott C.]

Monday,
Got the trunion repair done. This one had a groove on the inside also, first time I've seen that.

I also got the rear lift hooked up to the rockshaft. I had a hard time getting the screws started, here the new spirol pin I put in was sticking up just enough to mess me up.

[Scott C.]

Last night.
I swapped fenders from the loader to the 149 and put the fenders from the 148HE on the loader. Now it (the loader) has the different seat with the arms.
My first trunion repair (on the 129 loader) from 8 years ago ? Still working great.

Got the driveshaft and rear lift hooked up with a rear tire swap.

Engine from the 148HE in place.

Fenders with new bolts on everything (good ground) and the seat.

It's a runner! Drove it around the yard and the hydro works smooth.

All that is left to do is mount the front and she's ready for plow day! Wooohooo.... Now to get the rest of the stuff ready.

[Scott C.]

SWEET!!!!!
Runs great, smooth hydro, woohoooooo!
Not bad for parts from 4 tractors.

As ready for plow day as I can get it for now.
Maybe I'll do a little sod busting.

The loader is ready. I put the seat from the HE on it, I had to modify the fenders and seat plate to keep it stable.
It should work nice on the loader.

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[Scott C.]

OK,
Plow day is over. Whew.... Can't wait till next year.
I'm real happy with the 149. I borrowed a plow from Howard D. and turned a little ground. It pulled nice.
One thing.
There were times when I had it pulling real hard, starting a furrow for the low field and on the pulling track, that it started pinging and missing a little.
I'm thinking that is related to timing. Does that sound right?

[Farmallgray]

Scott,
If you don't know the history, I would pull the head and de-carbon it. It could have a piece of carbon that glows when hot and makes it pre-ignite. It could be timing too, but I would pull the head for piece of mind.

[Scott C.]

Todd,
Thanks, that's where I'll start.

[Farmallgray]

Scott,
While you have the head off, check the cam lift too if you have a dial caliper.

[Scott C.]

I finally got the 149 off the trailer today. I put the cultivator on to carry it around to the shed and what do I see? The garden.
My wife says I have adult ADHD, I say I just get distracted easily.
I mean, come on, you got a cultivator on and a garden that need cultivatin', how can you not?
I like the 149.

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[Scott C.]

Back to the 149....
When I had the engine in the extended tractor I never put a PTO on it. So, I remedied that today.
Had to clean up the shaft first.

I had an old PTO on the shelf (actually every thing I needed today except the PTO button, head gasket and spark plug was on the shelf, somewhere) that I couldn't get one of the set screws all the way in so I ran a tap in to clean up the threads. Found someone had drilled the old set screw out but managed to drill it dead center which saved the threads.

Pulled the head per Todd's suggestion and found some carbon that could definitely cause detonation, cleaned that up.

Had to disc the garden to try it out.

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[Scott C.]

Now that I had the PTO on, I needed a deck! The only one I have is the 50" that's on the 2072. So.....
I thought I could use the subframe, lesson learned.
First I moved the bolt holes thinking this is going to be easy.

After not thinking things through completely (surprised?), I found the pulleys are waaaay to far forward for the belt to get to the PTO so I swapped an old mule drive from a wide frame subframe and that fixed it.

Everything lined up and I went into the belt pile, found the right size and got it working.
After a trip to the driveway to adjust it all level I was a happy camper.

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[Scott C.]

One of the things I'd been dealing with on the 50" deck under the super was leaving strips of grass when it was high. I never felt like it was running fast enough.
Big difference under the 149! I can now hear the blades, something I didn't notice on the super, and it spits grass out farther than when it was on the 2072.
I cut it high the other day as it had been a long time since I cut so there was grass left standing and clumps of cut grass all over the place. I figured I'd work the 149 as hard as it could be worked to see if anything would show up so I dropped the deck and went at it.
I found that maybe another reason for the pinging I was getting besides the carbon was I was running lean. I noticed this when I smelled paint burning off the side of the hood from the muffler and was getting a little ping pulling the hill while cutting. I adjusted the carb a little and it cleared up.
I love it!
The super is now in the shed and the 149 is getting grass duty.

Great cub day!!!

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[Scott C.]

I've been having a problem with the 149 chewing up drive shaft pins. The coupler was grooved but I've seen a lot worse.

So I took it out and welded the groves in, ground it out (did I mention I'm a good grinder?) and put it back.

All I had at the time was a spirol pin, if it holds, great, if not I'll get a solid one.

It also had a miss at high speed that I corrected with closing the points a little.

I wonder if this miss along with the slack from the groove was causing the shaft to back off and slam back again? Causing the pin breakage. They weren't flying out, I always had a piece to drive out with the new one.

Any thoughts on that?

[Farmallgray]

I solve that problem by eliminating that rinky-dink setup and using the double rag joint setup from a QL or 82 series. I only have 1 hydro that still has that setup and it seldom gets run.

[Scott C.]

Rinky-dink rinky-dink
You callin' my setup rinky-dink
Well, OK, just wanted to make sure...
I wouldn't call it a weak point if you think about it. How long do they last?
But, the rag joint connection would be the way to go. Have you priced that part lately?
I couldn't afford to buy a new one, I've paid less for tractors

[wham]

I've been having a problem with the 149 chewing up drive shaft pins. The coupler was grooved but I've seen a lot worse.

So I took it out and welded the groves in, ground it out (did I mention I'm a good grinder?) and put it back.

All I had at the time was a spirol pin, if it holds, great, if not I'll get a solid one.

It also had a miss at high speed that I corrected with closing the points a little.

I wonder if this miss along with the slack from the groove was causing the shaft to back off and slam back again? Causing the pin breakage. They weren't flying out, I always had a piece to drive out with the new one.

Any thoughts on that?

DSCN9839.JPG

Been having the exact same problem on my 149 (favorite Cub and most used other than the 2160 I cut with) . Since I don't use it a lot in the winter that may be a winter project for it.
Tim H.

DSCN9840.JPG

[J Hayes]

[quote="Scott C.
But, the rag joint connection would be the way to go. Have you priced that part lately?
I couldn't afford to buy a new one, I've paid less for tractors [/quote]

Not sure what cub costs , but would this work ??

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7418

If not lots of old mine belting around .. I made one from belting before .

[Scott C.]

Well, the drive pin repair seems to be holding up. No problems since the fix.

Cub Therapy...
This rain, cold, gray weather has got to me. Couldn't get out to do anything, grass is still growing like crazy!
I decided to cut the field just cause I needed some cub time. Soaking wet grass just packed up under the deck and let loose every once in a while in those big wet chunks that make the whole tractor shake when they drop out.. I'm going to have a nice mess to clean up before I decide to cut the front yard.
That's OK though, got my cub fix, had a ceegar and relaxed a little.

[RandyLittrell]

Thats good to hear Scott, I have 2 149's that need the same repair this winter.





Randy

[Scott C.]

OK, it's now going to be the 149HE using the old 128 frame I modified.
The hydro is what it needed not to mention hydraulics. I ought to do well with the 50" deck under it too.
I have a couple things to change, like adding a permanent mule drive under the engine which will be behind the front axle.
This way I can run the deck with a standard subframe and still hook a blade on the front.
Of course this could all change when I get started.....

I go the super out yesterday, hauled some wood, played a little.
BTW, Geezer, that broken solenoid from the other post is from the 2072 when I was trying to start it with a screwdriver instead of cleaning up the switch contacts....

[Scott C.]

Quick question.
I am going to have a lot of room under the hood of the 149HE letting me put any kind of muffler I want under there.
So, has anyone ever used an automotive style muffler on a Kohler engine?
They can be had sooo much cheaper that a cub cadet part.


Todd,
You bein' a NAPA guy, any suggestions?

I don't know if I'm going for a stack on this because If I use it to cut grass, with the extra height of the tractor and the stack I'd never be able to trim under three of my trees without serious pruning.
But, then what's a little sacrificial limb to a Cub Cadet?

[Farmallgray]

Scott,
I don't really have any specific ideas. You will be somewhat limited in selection by the small pipe size. I would think a car muffler would probably be quiter and less resrtictive. If it were me, I'd probably find a decent used QL muffler and put on it.

[vince_o]

Please dont trash that 149 with QL parts!

[Scott C.]

That's just it, I could buy a new automotive muffler (which would be quieter) for less that a QL one.

And, I wouldn't want to upset Vince

[vince_o]

[Scott C.]

Played around with the frame a little. I want to mount a mule drive so I can run a 50" deck on the HE.
With the front extended, the motor now sits behind the axle and the mule drive is going to be close.
But, that's why they make torches, saws and welders.... oh, and tape measures, can't forget that.
So.
The front axle is going top have to be flipped along with the spindles to get them back to where they should be.

I am going to cut the mule drive to make the frame of it narrower so it does not go outside the frame of the tractor but is just as wide. I am also going to cut the portion off that would go outside the tractor frame.
Then weld it to the bottom of the tractor frame. I thought about bolting it on but there would be no reason to remove it as there is a separate quick attach in front of the axle where it belongs.

If the tie rod does not have enough clearance after this, I'll offset it some.

For perspective, this is the frame I am working with.