Wide frame vs spread frame lift yoke ?

jpackard56 · Post by **jpackard56** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:32 pm

I'm confused...I can see from photos that a narrow frame lift yoke won't fit a 108 because gee it's narrower but, would the actual cast lift yoke from say a 1250 fit a 108? From what I can see in photos is that the 108 should have a shaft clear thru the yoke with cotter pins on each end and the 1250 would have bolts that fit in each end of the yoke but the cast part looks to me to be the same length. I'm still looking for one to fit a 108. Thanks for any input you can share to help my ignorance.

J Hayes · Post by **J Hayes** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:08 pm

Post by **Dave C** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:26 pm

The actually cast part is the same for the wide frames... partway through they switched from the 5/8 rod to the 2 frankenstein bolts.... specifically at (Serial No. 616145 ) The bolts are available separate from one of our vendors. For a 108 just get some 5/8 stock and drill 2 holes for cotter pins and poof!
dave

jpackard56 · Post by **jpackard56** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:52 pm

Thanks for the help. Jim and I talked this thru a couple times since my post as well. Without having one in hand I was afraid to buy without being sure. These cast yokes seem to be getting pricier everywhere I see them. Should have picked one up last year when $75 got the whole caboodle dropped at the door

Thanks again,
Jim

elbertjolley · Post by **elbertjolley** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:47 am

I have all the measurements to build the cast piece out of pipe and some flat stock. I think I'm going to make my own using schedule 40 pipe. I think it will be a lot more forgiving than cat iron, not a big fan of cast anything

J Hayes · Post by **J Hayes** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:01 am

elbertjolley wrote:I have all the measurements to build the cast piece out of pipe and some flat stock. I think I'm going to make my own using schedule 40 pipe. I think it will be a lot more forgiving than cat iron, not a big fan of cast anything

When you do it please post pics as you build it . been thinking on the same line

Farmallgray · Post by **Farmallgray** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:55 am

I don't know if I'd trust SCH40 pipe. There is a lot of force on that part. I'd maybe think about something a little heavier if you can.

I always figured if I ever made one I'd start with solid stock about the same size as the casting and bore it.

jpackard56 · Post by **jpackard56** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:26 pm

Now that brings up still more questions I've had about these things. I've never thought a casting was such a good idea (strength-wise) for and odd shaped fulcrum and yet that is what they obviously used for several different versions for many years. Has anybody seen these break

Just how much or what quality (tensile strength) metal should I be looking to use when I start

Square or round

J Hayes · Post by **J Hayes** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:41 pm

My thoughts .. if you can picture this 1 1/2 square stock ( heavy tubing like a light duty trailer hitch) cut one to fit inside frame width wise.
weld ends on it and drill center to accept attaching bolt /pin/rod ?

Another piece for the lifting fulcrum would be notched out maybe an inch By 1 1/2 for two reasons give more surface area to weld , and give it the off set appearance the cast ones have .
use the solid hitch bar for that receiver to do the lifting?????????
I can see it , I just can't draw worth a greenie

Farmallgray · Post by **Farmallgray** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:43 pm

My cousin had one break but I forget what the conditions were when it happened.

Mild steel should be plenty strong as long as its near the same size as the cast sections and is gusseted properly.

cub1450 · Post by **cub1450** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:53 pm

This is what I done.2 in. square tubing notched and welded together and pressed pipe in the tubing
with my press(a 12 pound slegde).It looks a whole lot better in person because it has silver spray paint,slag,grease,and a few welds that have to be ground down on it.