882 Loader Project!

[Dave C]

Well im finally getting to my 882 loader project and i have a loader that came off who knows what so im gonna cut off the subframe and build my own so im looking for some pictures of what others did. Been debating if the subframe should extend the entire length of the tractor or just mid to front or mid to rear? pics and comments plse
Dave

[RandyLittrell]

Check out Matts site, he put a loader on his 682 and built a subframe for it. He has a nice write up with pics.

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/





Randy

[vince_o]

Dave

Im going to do mine like Matt did. I did that on my other loader and works great.

[BigMike]

My Johnson model 10 was originally built for a narrow frame.I used the subframe/stanchions as a pattern to build new to fit the 149.My only real changes were to relocate the controls,to add a filter add a cross brace from side to side.
I will attempt to get pics tonight.

[Farmallgray]

The first 4 are mine, the rest I collected off the various forums.

[Tom Scott]

Since I was snapping pics today, I put this on my to-do list to see if it would help someone here. These are of my Kwik-Way that I just took off for the winter. Todd's 5th pic (labeled 15844) shows a Kwik-Way sub-frame installed. I really like the Kwik-Way setup, and it really does install and remove very quickly.

[junderwood]

Tom,

Any chance you could take some more photos of the pump mount? Looks like a simple yet effective design.

Thanks,
John

[Tom Scott]

I'll see if I can circle back around to it; taking pictures, downloading, resizing, etc., I never seem to have time. I will try to get back with some more, but it is just a mount that attaches to the "quick attach" up front and the pump mount area has adjustment slots to adjust the belt tension. The only negative is you remove the shoulder bolts from the tractor frame and replace with regular bolts to go through holes in the rear of the "quick attach" frame (where the slots would be on a mower mule drive). Kind of tight behind the power steering cylinder rod to be changing bolts out.

[SWilliams]

Looking at that design you could probably slot that to fit over the shoulder bolts. Then on the front you could drill out a couple holes to line up with the holes in the frame like the blower mounts do.

[Tom Scott]

Steve - Yeah, I thought about that, but the advantage of their design is that once you have the belt tension set properly, removing the rear bolts allows the back to lower, making the front tip up, allowing removal of the belt without disturbing the adjustment. It is easier to deal with the back bolts twice a year than readjust the belt each time. All in all, I am pretty happy with the whole setup.

[kbrothers]

Tom what does the rear of the sub frame connect to Thanks Ken in Pa

[Tom Scott]

Ken - Kwik-Way has four simple brackets that stay bolted to existing holes in the tractor's frame, and provide a single hole for a pin at each corner of the subframe. The rear brackets use the holes intended for the Haban blade/mower deck, so that would be a pain to remove each season if necessary. With the 50" deck or the 450 thrower, the brackets can remain on the tractor without interfering with them. Takes less than five minutes to put the subframe on; lift it up and install the pins.

[Dave C]

Thanks for the pictures i think i have a plan...... i think!

On another note the hydraulic pump i have is a clockwise pump and im gonna try to power the pump off the back of the trans pump and all of our cubs turn CCW.... soooooo does anyone have any clue about what GPM and what displacement i should be looking for? surplus center has a host of small pumps around 80 bucks in both CW and CCW but theres several GPMs to choose from

thanks dave

[Farmallgray]

Dave,
I think mine is around 8 gpm which is probably a lot more than needed. I don't remember now but I probably chose it for price. Make sure you get one rated for 3600 rpms. Here is a pic of mine.

[Dave C]

Todd,

Thanks for that picture... its about what i was thinking of doing. although mine will be a tad bit further back so its clears the diesel tank.

For your drive it looks like you just hard pined the extension shaft to the hydro ( i was thinking of using a NF shaft coupler)
and did u use a lovejoy back at the pump? I figure thats the easist was to convert the 5/8 to 1/2 shaft thats typical of the pumps.

Ill have to be very accurate with my pump placement i would imagine.

dave

[Farmallgray]

Dave,
I used the top shaft from a Cyclops pump which is splined. I had a heck of a time finding a coupler with the correct spline. The pump is also splined but I can't remember why. Looks like I had to make a custom lovejoy coupler to fit it.
Set screws hold the couplers to the splined shafts.

[jglass]

farmallgray; How did you hook up the suction line on the pump? thanks jglass

[Farmallgray]

farmallgray; How did you hook up the suction line on the pump? thanks jglass

I drilled & tapped a 1/2" NPT hole in the side of the transaxle housing at the bottom.

[jglass]

thanks, jglass

[DaveKamp]

Pictures #7 and #8 out of Farmallgray's posting are of my Loader-Mutt.

The rear-end mount has no hardware- it just slides over the axle housings, and there's enough slop in there to allow the frame to flex.

The girdle-plates on the right and left side of the frame taper work out great... I have not experienced any cracks in the frame anywhere. Note that I DID make and weld in a new bushing for the front axle (and my front axle is fabricated steel with hydraulic steering). I've had the transaxle-to-frame fasteners loosen up frequently, and I've twisted off one axleshaft (buried the bucket, and had lots of traction), but haven't broken anything else.

[Dave C]

Todd,

acording to my calculations a pump with 8 GPM pushing 2, 1.5 inch pistons (they may be 2 inch not sure) is gonna move those pistons at 8.75 inches per second.
Im very far from an expert but that seems a bit fast? how does yours work? i saposse those numbers may be effected by the valve in the size of the valve ports.... i dunno
dave

[DaveKamp]

8gpm IS pretty high volume for those cylinders, but keep in mind that one can always throttle the engine back a bit, or not pull the handle full-stroke, to go slower. My pump runs 1.2ci/revolution at half-engine-speed, so 1800rpm x 1.5ci = 2160 cubic inches per minute... or (divided by 231) 9.3gpm. I typically run the engine at about half to three-quarter throttle, so 5-6gpm is plenty... but I'm flowing hydraulic steering too.

Realize that when running belts, one can always change the belting ratio to 'trim' everything to suit needs. When running direct, you don't have that option.

[Farmallgray]

My cylinders are 2". I got them because they were a bunch cheaper than 1-1/2" (do you see a theme going on here?).
I looked up the specs for cycle time on a new Kubota compact and sized my pump to be close to that.

[Dave C]

So should i shoot for something about this size?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?i ... =hydraulic

SPECIFICATIONS
Disp. 0.37 cu. in. / rev.
Pump Type Gear
Rotation CCW
Pressure:
2900 PSI rated
3480 PSI max.
Speed:
2000 RPM rated
4000 RPM max.
Flow:
2.98 GPM rated
5.96 GPM max.
figure ill prob typically run the same engine speed 1/2 to 3/4 throttle so i should have aprox 2.8 to 4.5 GPM running 1800 to 2700 rpms? or am i still too large or too small

[DaveKamp]

Were you planning on running direct-driven, or belted?

If belted, the only thing you'd be challenged by, is running it faster than it's continuous-duty speed suggested... actually, you'd be doing that with direct even moreso.

Think I'd shoot for either a higher continuous-speed rating, or a belted-down ratio and more volume per turn.

[Dave C]

Dave,

I plan on direct driving it almost like how Todd did his,mine will be slightly further back to clear the diesel tank but the concept is there.

Ok i was kinda wondering what they meant by the different ratings. i think i have run out of options at surplus center so i went over to northern and found these... is this moreso what i should get... it doesnt have any continuous or intermittent ratings just 1800 and 3600 with a 4000 max.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200329708
Cubic Inch Size: .258
Flow at 1800 RPM: 2.0 GPM
Flow at 3600 RPM: 4.0 GPM
Maximum PSI Cont.: 2300
Maximum PSI Intmt.: 3000
O-Ring Port Size, SAE: 3/4in.-16

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200329706

Cubic Inch Size: .388
Flow at 1800 RPM: 3.0 GPM
Flow at 3600 RPM: 6.0 GPM
Maximum PSI Cont.: 1600
Maximum PSI Intmt.: 2500
O-Ring Port Size, SAE: 7/8in.-14

[DaveKamp]

Either one would work nicely... Since you don't have the ability to change the ratio, I think i would go with the smaller, so you'll have a lower torque load in the event that you decide to throttle it down and work gently. Your normal work range and operating speed will reside in the 'meat' of the throttle range... you'll probably be running around 2800rpm most of the time, so this would be the better side to err on. One side-note advantage here... IF you use it for a while, and decide that the bigger would better suit your usual uses, this pump is not only bi-directional, but can be used as a motor too... you could pull it off, put it on a shelf (with the ports covered), and later on, add another section to your loader valve, pipe it to a front or rear aux circuit, and use it for driving a mower (like a flail hanging off an arm, for sidehills and ditches), or a power-broom, or a snow-thrower, or a tiller... or a 20,000lb winch off a military truck, or a tree harvesting machine, or the bow thruster for an aircraft carrier, or a track of the space shuttle launch platform, or a stirring arm in a sewage treatment plant, or a...

[Farmallgray]

Dave,

You aint right!

[Dave C]

First off Dave K,

Thanks for all the help! im going to order one of them pumps this weekend and some hoses etc.

Todd, I read dave's post and not entirely surprised by what comes out of his keyboard but i think you said it well!
i mean moving the space shuttle pad....lol

Well i have designed something in my mind that combines a few of the designs i have noticed here with the nuts and bolts basically like Matt G's I have created 4 "girdle" plates in Autocad and emailed it to my laserman and i just picked them up today, another quick stop at logan steel to procure roughly 100 lbs of steel at 1$/lb, torch tanks are full,... after a quick Tux fit tommarow AM im gonna see what i can build i got a spare frame and tranny so i think ill build and tack it upside down on that and test fit on the tractor and then burn it home! pics to follow tommarow

dave

[rweaver]

tux fit Dave you getting hitched or what