Trunion Repair

[Scott C.]

I had to do a trunion repair on a hydro so I thought I'd take a picture or two.
It was pretty bad so the first thing was to clean up the spurs and give myself a little bevel to weld to.

Then I cut a piece of 1/4" key stock and welded it to cover the bad part.
Good as new and it'll last a lot longer.

[Trebor]

Nice job Scott. I can give you directions to my 129!

[J Hayes]

Nice job Scott !!
We need a place like "how to" with links for these pictorials for repair ideas.
Anyone posting topics like this with clear pics would be moved to that locked section.

[ksanders]

I too would love a "how too" section. I really needed one when switching carriers and axles on my 982 this past week. Had to take it back apart once because I screwed up. Live and learn though and hopefully it'll work when in the tractor.

When doing these trunion repairs, how important is adding the extra metal up top? Will rewelding it back to stock not hold up that long? I've done about 10 now back to just stock and have no signs of wear yet on the ones I still have access to.

[Tim DeLooza]

Kevin, I’ve done several “back to stock” repairs and had no problems. It took them 40+ years to get as bad as they are, it will be another 40+ till they need it again.

[Trebor]

I did a Trunion repair today using the repair patch from http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%2 ... 28-001.htm
Oops, the damper plate binds against the patch so I rounded the front and rear edges of the patch for clearance. Has anyone else experienced this?

[Scott C.]

The how to section is going to get some work real soon.
Ol' Dave "the Developer" Chester has been working on a new manuals section for us and we can use PDF files which will make everyone's life much easier.

Stay tuned.....

[Paulf]

Robert, are you sure you didn't weld that patch to the wrong part? I used to make a patch like that and I always welded it to the other part 90 degrees from where you put it. I don't know the name of either part, but hopefully someone else will chime in. The other part is the one that always wears. Did you get any instructions with it?

[Trebor]

Paul,
I think my picture is more clear to me than to you. I was trying to show how close the patch is to the top of the damper plate window (side view). Here are before and after pictures looking down from the top.
There were no instructions with the patch. It is welded to the top of the Trunion.

[Paulf]

Robert, you are correct. My orientation was wrong. I see now that what you did is the way that I always did it. Sorry about my confusion.

[Kyocum]

When I repaired my trunnion I made a piece just like the one from extreme motor works but I cut off the worn out piece and welded the new one in. Ground 45's on each edge and welded then ground off the welds. Can hardly tell it from a stock piece.

[JeremyCusick]

Getting ready to do this on Dad's 105. It's worn almost all the way through at the corners. I already have the rear end pulled, just gotta get Dad to the Cub dealer for parts (like a new rubber drive disc, for one). His was so bad that the end caps to the spring are gone, along with one of the snap rings that holds the plate on (that the rod hooks to).

[Binder_Finder]

I am submitting the following as my entry for worst trunion of 2011. This is on a one-owner 1450 that my friend just aquired. We already have the new iso mounts and ridgid engine cradle installed (Patton Acres, thank you) and are waiting on a cast oil pan for the AQS as the original one was in bad shape. This is about the worst I've seen and it could not go back together without repair.

Cub 1450 Trunion1 small.jpg (96.94 KiB) Viewed 15388 times

I'm no good with a welder so I had my buddy tack it up at his auto repair shop today. Not pretty, but all it has to be is functional. 1/4 x 1/4 x 1 1/2 keystock, it was the longest 1/4 stock I had. Should work fine for a while.

Cub 1450 Trunion3 small.jpg (95.6 KiB) Viewed 15388 times

So easy to fix, and good for another 30 years! This is the first Quietline that I've messed with, so I'll be waiting to see how 'quiet' it gets with the new mounts. The cradle rails had split and spread, and the engine was pretty much just laying under the hood. I'll post something when it's back together.

[aar]

What do they act like when the trunnions get worn like that?

[Scott C.]

What do they act like when the trunnions get worn like that?

They try to kill you!
They would love nothing better than to try and throw you off or run into a tree or a ditch or the house or the dog or your wife's prize flower bed (which, in that case, can get you killed twice!) by picking up speed uncontrollably or jerking and jumping when changing direction.

It's a little known fact that for the movie "Killdozer" in 1974, about a dozer possessed by a meteorite, that all they had to do to make the dozer appear maniacal was to put a worn trunion plate in the final drive.

[Grant]

Is there anyway to leave the fender pan of a WF on when doing the trunion repair?

[aar]

What do they act like when the trunnions get worn like that?

They try to kill you!
They would love nothing better than to try and throw you off or run into a tree or a ditch or the house or the dog or your wife's prize flower bed (which, in that case, can get you killed twice!) by picking up speed uncontrollably or jerking and jumping when changing direction.

It's a little known fact that for the movie "Killdozer" in 1974, about a dozer possessed by a meteorite, that all they had to do to make the dozer appear maniacal was to put a worn trunion plate in the final drive.

LOL, ic i think my 1450 may be that way however i tightened up the friction adjustment and that seemed to help it a lot. but better have a look at the trunnion too! My cubs won't be near as much fun if they kill me

[thehud]

Cub Repaired Trunion2a.JPG

I did a Trunion repair today using the repair patch from http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%2 ... 28-001.htm
Oops, the damper plate binds against the patch so I rounded the front and rear edges of the patch for clearance. Has anyone else experienced this?

I had a very similar problem too. I test fit the repair piece and found that it was going to bind. So I gave the trunion arm a little convincing into a new position to give it enough room.

[Grant]

The trunion repair piece that xtreme sells is supposed to replace the worn piece. The idea is to cut the old one off at the point where it goes horizontal and then weld the new square into place. It's not a 'patch' according to Aaron.

[mgonitzke]

If you have a welder and are welding on it anyway, it's FAR faster to weld up the wear in the corners and file them back into shape than welding pieces of shaft key or that repair piece on it. I'm not really a fan of that repair piece...something about throwing all that heat into the trunion seal on that side doesn't sit well with me.

[Dave C]

Yea... i was gonna post before....i have to agree with matt..... its only a few seconds of welds to fill in the worn spots and then i have a 1/4 inch rotary burr.... or rotary file cant ever remember which for the rotary air tool that i use to get 90 percent of it back to normal... then a few min with a file to square the hole up..... and its done.... run the plates and the spring back and forth to be sure it doesnt bind up....

[Kyocum]

If you have a welder and are welding on it anyway, it's FAR faster to weld up the wear in the corners and file them back into shape than welding pieces of shaft key or that repair piece on it. I'm not really a fan of that repair piece...something about throwing all that heat into the trunion seal on that side doesn't sit well with me.

I have done a few of these using the repair piece. Never had a problem damaging the trunnion seal with heat. Never had one leak either. Welders heat sink compound and a few small stitch welds as opposed to burning a single bead in one pass does miracles.Just saying.

[wshytle]

This is my first time posting on this forum so I hope everything is correct. This is the way I repair trunion slots. I cut the outside worn strip out leaving both sides their full length. I have 1/4" key stock and notch both sides (see pic). This notch automatically gives the right slot length and I made two "sizers" to put in the slot before welding to render the proper width. The notches allow the metal to drop down into the original plane where the spring pins wore the slot originally. It doesn't take much welding at all and is really easy if you have the shaft out of the pump. I wouldn't recomend removing the shaft just for this repair but if you have other issues with the pump it provides better access, especially underneath the slot.

I painted the bare steel black since this shaft was out of the pump. I hope the pics post ok....remember, first time.

[Trebor]

Wayne,

This is an excellent idea. I like this the best so far. Are you also using key stock for the width "sizers"?

[wshytle]

Trebor-

I cut two small pieces of 1/16" flat stock and made simple gages. I also primed them so they stay fairly clean. They take the guess work out and the slot is "jigged" for welding. I have a way of clamping the "sizers" to both sides of the slot with the "tabs" up against the rear of the slot. Then tack welding the key stock at the proper width is automatic. It sounds like a hard way of doing it but it's really easy now. I have already cut and grooved a few pieces of key stock for future jobs. I have several hydros and haven't found one yet that didn't need this repair.

[albie]

Well after following this thread for awhile I did my first trunion repair today on my 1650. I used two pieces of keystock and reshimmed the spring. I also replaced the broken cooling fan, not a bad job.

[Dave C]

Albie,

Not really sure them fans really do much..... i think hitting your rear with a powerwasher may have helped more!! look at the gunk!

[PTWannaHave]

Hello all,

One of the reasons I joined this forum is because of the excellent discussions such as this thread... It's older, but it's a goldmine! I will now bring this discussion back to the forefront, with a question about an observation I made while trying to repair my trunion.

I have noticed in many pics, and in my own recent experience, that the trunion springs are not often centered in the 'Chevy Bowtie' cam plate. This off-center position seems to occur in new-from-factory, worn, and repaired situations.

I have just cut my trunion plate to weld a new 'square washer' (from Xtreme MotorWorks). The washer's inside edge is exactly where the original part's inside edge was. If I were to weld washer now, the springs would not be centered in cam plate. I would need to remove another approx. 1/8-1/4in of material from the original trunion so that welded washer would hold the springs centered on the cam plate. (The trunion bracket and cam plate are flush together.)

Should I make sure my springs are centered?

Thank-you in advance,

[wdeturck]

The plate was engineered with the dimensions of your square washer. When you look at in the static position it could possibly look off center but when it.s running on blocks and you hit your brakes and the back wheels stop and don't turn ever thing is working correctly. Don't try to re-engineer it

[Dave C]

yea id have to agree with geezer... remember also its probably designed so it wont go the same speed fwd and rev.... which may have something to do with the off center position... i dunno i never much noticed that!