Amp gauge

[l palma]

This was on the 124 I have,looks different than the one that is from the factory.
Is this a replacement?,or did the po put this on there from an larger IH tractor?

[SteveWoods]

Your gauge on the right looks exactly like the one on my 1971 108 right down to the part number.

[dag1450]

My 127 gauge looks like the one on the right.I don't really care how you can see inside the other one. Thats just me.

[Klapatta]

Lewis,
that is very interesting. Thanks for showing us that.
Up until today I had no idea that Faria had ever been contracted by IH to make gauges for them.
Of course the 378424R91 gauge is the most common type to be found on the Cub Cadets and I think I recall reading in Ken Updike's book that it was manufactured by Stewart-Warner for IH.
I looked into the patent number 2,867,768 on the Faria gauge and that patent was granted on Jan. 6, 1959.
There was a third gauge maker contracted by IH called Rochester Instruments and that gauge carried the part number 360053R91. It was used on the 100, 130, 140, 200 and some other larger machines.
When one was to order an add on amp gauge package for a Cub Cadet before they became a standard feature, that service package was supplied by Rochester Instruments. I have seen the brochure for it and clearly that's what it was. Here is what the Rochester gauge looks like, notice it's almost identical to the Faria gauge-

This one shown was part of one of those add on service packages, however the bracket was badly rotted and a gave it to an old Forum member a long time ago. It's mounted on the side of the pedistal instead of the bottom as the install directions showed. I like it better there anyway, it's easy to see and not a knuckle whacker when shifting.
Notice that the patent number on the Faria and Rochester gauges is identical- I wonder what's up with that

[JMotuzick]

To add, 69925C1 was used on my 169 that I'm restoring, I've found this gauge on very few other 1x8/9's not sure why they changed but they did. There are no other markings other then the P/N.
I never knew how hard it was to take this picture till now......

[Klapatta]

Joe,
good pic- thanks for posting that I do recall now seeing a couple of those.
That makes four and we ain't even into the ones with the black bezel rings yet
If the Faria gauge Lewis showed has a black plastic back case I'd bet its one of those more recent reproduction gauges currently out there but that patent number still has me stumped-
They make good quality instruments like high end marine applications and gauges for the military such as for the Abrams and Humvee to name a couple.

Here is a setup that I run on the 100 puller, while not stock it gets the job done well. It consists of an Stewart Warner 30 amp gauge, a double pole switch, and a indicator light.
Basically, the whole thing is nothing more than a field disconnect device. With the switch in the ON position the field is disconnected, the gauge shows the no charge, and the indicator lights as a no charge warning.
I came to learn later on that it makes a dandy generator tester too

Underside-

[l palma]

Joe,
You need a better camera...The 149 I sold had one of those funny looking gauges.

Kenneth,
Here is a picture of the back of the gauge.It has - + stamped into the metal and has this non conductive bakalite strip on the back....

What is the setup you have on the puller,and why do you have to disconnect the charging system when pulling???

[Klapatta]

Lewis,
thanks again for the new pic, interesting that it is using deep draw steel construction with all brass hardware and a bakalite backing. To me that would imply more vintage construction so I think that would rule out it being a reproduction.
Recently I purchased a 2 5/8" Stewart Warner mechanical temperature gauge (very costly) and that one still had the drawn steel case construction so the method continues to be used. It had been manufactured in Mexico so I could speculate that the tooling had been sent across the border, these days older products are often made there. I should mention it gets stuck at cold every now and then

My last posting began drifting the thread off topic and I apologize to the moderators for that. I can reply to the question via PM.

[Farmallgray]

Ken,
There are a lot of posts that drift totally off topic. It doesn't bother me a bit and I suspect there aren't too many here that it does bother. A lot of good info comes to light in these off topic posts.

In case anyone else wants the answer to Lew's question it is a pulling thing. It is also an old drag racing trick. An alternator or generator take more power to turn when they are charging as opposed to when they are just spinning. Cutting out the field stops them from charging which gives you a bit more power.

[Paul B]

Todd, I had a switch to cut out the field for drag use, mounted on the bottom of the dash on a 1959 Tri-Power Pontiac, until the switch went up in a shower of sparks and smoke one night. Like the saying goes, if you let the smoke out, it is no longer good.......

[PTWannaHave]

Hey all,

This seemed like an appropriate older thread to post my question...

I'd like to test an old charge indicator (a.k.a. amp meter, volt meter, ammeter) out of the tractor to see if it's any good to use on a tractor in the future. Is there a way to do this with simple tools?

The old part I have seems to have a stuck needle. I expected to see the needle move a little when shaking the unit...

What is a fair price to pay for this part new or newsed? (I'm only looking for something that works and can help me with electrical indications/problems later on...)

What is the best/most useful indicator to have? If I'm going to drill a 2" hole for one, I might as well install something that give more precise information... Perhaps something from the automotive sector?

Thank-you in advance,

[wdeturck]

I don't like the amp meter with the Cub cadet S/G and VR as they only show charge right after yo start and then just stay at a small charge. I put a Volt meter in Ted when I first rebuilt my Original. When you turn the switch on it shows the charge and when the VR kicks in and shows the Charging Voltage till you shut it down.

[PTWannaHave]

http://farmallparts.com/products/?view= ... t_id=27527

That might be a good choice; wish it started at 0 instead of 8; price seems very reasonable.

I'll have to look into the difference in wiring (if any) if I go the volt indicator route...

Cheers,

[wdeturck]

Mich easier . You just cut into hot wire from ignition add 2 terminals an put on + and make a - to ground.