QA 42 Snow Thrower Restoration

[ralmonrode]

These are before and after pictures of my QA 42 snow thrower restoration. All bolts where replaced with stainless steel, all bare metal was chromed, all paint was done in white powder coat and 90 degree gearbox gear oil replaced with synthetic Mobil One gear oil. Hope you enjoy the before and after pictures.

[ralmonrode]

Here is the rest of my pictures.

[JohnathanB]

that is just way to pretty to ever use again, dam ya did a nice job!!!

[dag1450]

Thanks alot for jinxing us , probably no snow again this year! Looks Really Nice! Dave

[Fwatson]

That is one nice looking Snow Thrower.

[ralmonrode]

Everyone thank you for your nice comments. The plan is for the snow thrower to be mounted on my Cub Cadet 100 for use during the winter. All my equipment is restored to better than new condition as much as possible, would never want to see one of my pieces inside a museum or move from tractor show to show on a trailer just looking pretty.

DSCN0130_reduced_120x_120.JPG (5.29 KiB) Viewed 10756 times

[atwrk2010]

Wow i'm very impressed! Hopefully mine will look like that someday.

[mgonitzke]

That looks very nice, but I would re-think the use of stainless steel bolts in areas where Grade 5 bolts were originally used since the SS bolts only have about 60% of the strength of the Grade 5 bolts you've replaced.

[ralmonrode]

I have never had any issues with SS replacing grade 5 bolts in strength on my machine. Now, I will admit the SS sometimes becomes cross threaded where grade 5 bolts have never cross threaded for me. I just prefer no rust on my tractors as you know the way to accomplish not having rust is SS.

[mikeyb]

Really nice job Rick!

[ralmonrode]

Mike,

Thank you!

[Klapatta]

That sure is a real nice piece of work Rick, nice job
With my driveway, I go through about one auger a year
I'm getting ready for Winter too- last week I pinned on a new sprocket to this spare tension arm, This one has case hardened teeth so it will be interesting to see how well it holds up.

[ralmonrode]

Where did you find the harden sprocket? If you made the sprocket and it holds up this year would you consider making me one? Always looking for ways to improve the design and durability of these old Cubs.

[Klapatta]

One .250 dia. through hole is all that's required- not sure of the location dimension right now but I'm sure you could get that off the old one.

IIRC, it was about 19 bucks less shipping

[ralmonrode]

Which one did you purchase the 14 or 15 tooth sprocket?

[Klapatta]

I realize that folks speed those things up, the stock 14 tooth configuration works just fine for me.

Yes, that is an AWD Subaru and two 4WD pickups stuck at the bottom
Excessive auger speed will only increase issues like this I think-

[ralmonrode]

Oops!

Thanks, for the update will wait to hear an update from you on how your new sprocket works before switching mine.

[Klapatta]

I knew I had that pic here somewhere, it was just a matter of finding it.
This one taken from 2 years ago.

As one can see I'm a bit rough on them

[ralmonrode]

You are lucky to have an old Cub Cadet snow thrower if you tried doing that much work with anything built by MTD well you know what would happen.

[6358]

VERY NICE.... I just purchased an 1100 that came with a QA42. All for $200.00 The shape of it is much worse than yours started off as. I certainly hope that mine will turn out as nice as yours... this will be my winter project!

[ralmonrode]

Good luck with your winter project if you have any questions please send me an e-mail.

[JohnathanB]

Hey Ya'll,

Yep I tearing down my QA42 blower also, it threw a chain last season and noticed allot of play. In tearing down I seen the sprocket was toasted and my bearing are gone.

Where should I go for a new bearings, are they still sold at cub cadet dealers or is there a more cost efficeint place to get these iteams? The McMaster-carr sproket looks like a winner
Thanks for all help as alway!

Regards,
Johnathanb

[Klapatta]

Johnathan,
While I did not replace those bearings in my sprocket assembly (they seemed perfectly fine) I suspect that these would work just great providing that a small hole was ground into the outer shell with a Dremil tool to provide lubrication from the grease fitting.

All of which reminds me this little incident from a couple years ago-

I mowed the lawn today and suspect there's just one more cutting, possible frost tonight they are saying

[6358]

I sure will ... thanks

[JohnathanB]

Kenneth,

Thanks for the info, I will call that company tommorow. look foward to getting this back together soon.
Question: 15 or 14 tooth? Should I speed up or not? just wondering It will be mounted on the 1650..
any thoughts?
Regards,
Johnathanb

[BigMike]

The bearings are common bearing house stock(at least mine were),the sprocket was from the farm store and the transfer shaft came from the Cub dealer.
I also added a bronze thrust bearing to keep the sprocket from chewing into the transfer shaft carrier.

[Klapatta]

Johnathan,
I'd stay with the stock 14 tooth sprocket myself, that's plenty fast enough auger speed for me.
If one is to look closely at the pic I posted it's possible to see the machine shim washers I installed on either side of the sprocket to eliminate side to side movement of the shaft prior to pinning. I consider that real important. Even if the factory did not do it that way, add this the list of improvements. They can be had in several thicknesses, and any good hardware store will carry them. After bearing install, be absolutely sure that the new needle bearing is below surface flush!
I remember now the hole location dimension that I used for that particular sprocket. there were two setscrews and I used that existing location- it was the same dimension as stock.
I did not drill and ream the hole directly in line with the keyway broach, rather the other one. Pinning the hole over the key will decrease the spirol pin strength as it's not fully trapped and supported! Keep the setscrew above the key hole in place and tighten- it can't hurt a thing