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I thought I would throw this out to the experts! A bunch of us was setting around Saturday discussing our tractor pulling rules and we all wondered why IH never built a gear drive over 12hp? Were they concerned the clutch would not hold the extra power? Or were they concerned that the transmission and rear end would break?

Actually they did. The 582 was a 16 hp gear drive and ws built by IH. If you are talking about single cylinders in the yellow & white era then probably mostly lack of demand. The hydro consumes some of the engine's power so the extra power isn't needed on a gear drive. Probably also had to do with packages. The 14 and 16 tractors were always the top of the line so they had to have all the desirable features. I doubt driveline weakness was a concern because CCC built 18 hp gear drives. By then gear drives were not very poplular anymore though. We probably sold 30-40 1810s and 1811s for every 1806 sold.

From anything I've ever heard and read Farmall's exactly right. By the time the 14 and 16hp's were out in the early 70s IH had moved to a hydro lift built into the hydro pump instead of a separate side-mounted unit, demand for hydros was sky-rocketing, and the gear drives were only still offered for the few that still wanted them and as a low cost substitute. You couldn't add hydro lift to a gear drive by this time and demand a loaded gear drive had all but deminished at this point. Aside from the 169 that was built for 3 months testing the 16hp motor, what are your more uncommon and sometimes rare tractors to own? 73's, 126's, 800's. I've never even seen an 1806 around and only a few 582's as opposed to many 682's and 782's.

The stock clutch is not strong enough for a 16+ hp engine, IMO. It will slip in 2nd and 3rd under a heavy load.

heres a question.. I have a 124 i plan on a power steering pump lift ...{well see} BUT MY 125 has anyone ever heard of running a lift off of the existing hydro trans think its possible ? or is there a wa to add some type of setup powered by the huydrostatic trans ?? just dreaming maybe

Adding an inline hydro lift to a 125 wouldn't be difficult at all. You'd have to swap out your existing hydro pump for one from a newer tractor that's ported for hydraulics such as a 149, 1450, etc. From there the cylinder and splitter from the same newer tractors could be used but you'd have to custom mount them somehow. It would still be way cheaper than a narrow frame hydro lift unit. I have a hydro pump laying on the garage floor that's ported if you need a pic of what I'm talking about.

Only issue I can think of is the lines that run from the ported pump to the splitter valve. A 125 has no tunnel cover like the newer models so installing those might be a little annoying. If I were to attempt this, I'd run a hard line with a 45 degree bend down away from the driveshaft, install them before putting the rear back in the tractor, thus making the rest of the lines more easily accessible when attaching them to your hard lines you put on the pump. If any of that makes sense

Here is how I did it on a 123. I cut hole in the tunnel and then made a plate for over it.

Wow looks interesting, Im an automotive mechanic not very well versed in hydraulics, any know of a website with specific information or and tips in completing this process. looks like i might attempt if i had a little more detailed information.i.e type of vavle i should use and ino on ported pump. ill continue searching the mighty google thanks fe;llas

Farmallgray, do you have any more pics of that setup?

Lucas,
Lucky for you I still had that disc in the drive and didn't have to dig for it again. This is all I have handy.

Thats awesome todd but i have a dumb question for you what would that valve body you have on there be called (flat, dual spool, remote lever ?) dumb question i know but just so i know ehat im looking for lol and p.s is the cylinder on there a stock cub part of some kind? what size is it what kind of extension does it have ? soeey for all the questions im new at this hydraulics thing ... thanks in advance

The valves are from a 3000 series Cub Cadet. The ones from a cyclops would be easier to work with. They are stackeable so you can put several together. The ports have to be drilled and tapped for 1/4 NPT or you have to use the stock oring style tubes. The cylinder is a Cub Cadet power steering cylinder.