147 Governor

[chzuck]

Earlier this summer I had the PTO end oil seal come out. I did find the filter inside the valve door dirty and replaced it. Today I finally got the engine back in the tractor and got it running. Now it seems the governor is not working at all. As soon as I move the throttle lever enough to put spring pressure on the linkage, the rpm takes off. I am wondering if a piece broke off, fell into the seal cavity and got pushed out by the rotating bearing. I did not find any pieces in the oil when I drained it. Is there an easy way to get a good look at the governor gear? Can it be replaced without removing the crankshaft?

[Klapatta]

Try resetting the governor to factory specifications. If that shows no tension then there's a good chance that the cross shaft tab has broken off- this is a fairly common failure after years of use.
I have my doubts a piece of metal that size(roughly 1/16x 3/16x 1/2) could get through the rotating bearing cage assembly and push the oil seal out. If the tab did break off it's most likely still inside the crank case.

[chzuck]

I overhauled the engine in 2002 but I could not find that I replaced that piece. The governor is set to the specs in the Kohler book. Can that be replaced without removing the crankshaft?

[vince_o]

Chuck

I think some have done it threw that little freeze plug. Ive never tried it. Ive always taken the eng down.

[Klapatta]

Vince,
I have heard that one too from a couple folks but can't say how that's done. Maybe really long skinny tweezers could help
The service manual describes the governor gear as the last thing out and first thing back in. That includes the cam shaft.
I do know that if the cross arm tab is broken off the arm can be removed by unscrewing the brass block nut and that shaft will come right out however re-assembly does require install from the crank case bottom.
The spot weld on those tabs can appear flimsy and I have added a dab of tig weld on a couple of them during re-use for good measure without problems. Current made replacements are more stoutly attached, the tab is a bit thicker too. I like to use the old style cast and machined governor gear if I happen to have a good on on hand at the time- those were very sturdy. I think I have one left Any used plastic gear should be tossed and replaced in my opinion,- it just ain't worth the potential trouble. Heat and age will make the nylon turn yellow and brittle. The webbing cross section on the plastic type that retains the fly out weights was thickened up some years back as an answer to the issue of the fly out weights breaking off at that spot, so that's a real improvement. I'm pretty sure the same part number was kept when that change was made.
If in doubt throw it out

[chzuck]

I do know that I replaced the gear when I did the overhaul. Hopefully it is the shaft tab. Hopefully I don't need to do a complete engine tear down. That will be a Christmas week task.

[vince_o]

Yea Chuck Ill have to agree with changining them when your there. I didnt do it on the mag 18, but maybe should have. Frank and I took a bore scope and looked at it look like new. So far so good.

[chzuck]

Vince,
I took a look at removing the gov shaft through the freeze out plug on an old 10 hp block. Looks like a no go. Tab is too long. I am going to try replacing it by taking off the oil pan and see if I can fish it out and back in from there. I will keep you posted on my success or failure to do so.

[vince_o]

Yea, I dont think its possable, but if it is you could have had the eng apart and back togeather by the time you figured it out, LOL

[Farmallgray]

I hate to say it but you won't get the governor gear out without taking the cam and crankshaft out. You may be able to replace the cross shaft with a lot of fiddling.

[chzuck]

I agree, but I think the problem is the cross shaft. The governor arm goes very far counter clockwise when disconnected from the carburetor. I plan on tackling the engine later this week. I will keep you posted.

[chzuck]

I removed the oil pan from the 147 engine and everything with the governor looks fine . I pushed the counter-wights out and the rod pushed the governor rod as it should. Turns out the arm does not go as far as I thought. The only change I made while I had the engine out was to add the spacer between the carb and block instead of just a plain gasket. Would that change the governor setting, since the carb is sitting out a little farther? Anyway, when I re-install the engine, I will go through the setting procedure for the governor arm and make sure nothing is binding in the linkage. Should have done all that first .

[vince_o]

I wouldnt think so.

[ksanders]

I think that spacer just adds a little time for the air and fuel to properly mix. Carb spacers on older vehicles and street/drag racing is big as it changes available torque or top end capabilities when pushing motors to the limit. On a Cub... I've never noticed nor can I believe the difference would ever be noticeable. Back on track, I have heard that those spacers will change settings and symptoms a bit but not like the governor issues you're having. If that's' all you've changed though I'd double check the spacer and carb base to ensure everything is true (flat) and that you don't have an air leak. I've seen that cause some abnormal atypical symptoms before.

[Farmallgray]

Charlie,
I was always taught that any time you remove the carb, it could disturb the syncronization between the governor and the carb. So you should always check that anytime you change or remove any related components.

[chzuck]

Thanks, Farmallgray. I didn't follow the KISS principle very well. That may be a lesson learned the hard way.

[chzuck]

It appears the governor adjustment may be the problem. Engine installation is not complete to run the engine yet, but when I went to reconnect the rod to the governor arm with both pulled to the left there was a 1/2" gap. Either the arm slipped on the shaft because it was not tight enough or it took a good bump in the engine removal and installation process the last time. Lesson learned: Always check the adjustment on the governor first before delving deeper.

[Dave C]

LOL... Reply to your post #1 sentence #1

Try resetting the governor to factory specifications.

[chzuck]

Things really went downhill due to a senior moment Now it's really gonna be expensive. Parked it in the shed for now.

[Dave C]

Ok... well you cant say something like that and not tell us what happened! Please dont say u forgot to hookup the governor linkage and the engine ran away? Or did u forget to put oil back in the engine?

dave

[chzuck]

OK, one of the above.

[chzuck]

Finally pulled the injured 147 out of the shed to see how bad I hurt it. I must say I was impressed at the toughness of the old Kohler 14 hp. Bore and piston was OK, salvaged the crankshaft, of course the rod was toast. New rings, new rod, and a polish job by my favorite machine shop and I am good to go. I had bored the cylinder and turned the crankshaft 10 years ago, so I was hoping I could salvage the engine. It's on its way back together to run again. I will hang that connecting rod in my garage as a constant reminder.