Front axel question

[56cub]

I am thinking about replacing the front axel on my 147 with one from a 129 as an easier way to improve the steering. Just looking at the tractor I think it will work wothout a problem but I'm not sure since I haven't done it yet.

Has anyone here attempted this swap and if so is it straight forward?

[wshytle]

If you go through the complete front end and clean both spindles/spacers, resize the axle channel, and rebuild the steering box I bet your steering problems will go away. There's probably 30 year old grease all through your steering system. The axle from a wf will work but there's just no real reason to do the swap when what you have just needs a good cleaning. By resizing the axle channel I mean squeeze it back to where it fits snugly over the axle pivot point. You can do this with a 3/4" bolt but be careful not to oversqueeze because spreading the channel can be somewhat difficult. I always tighten, measuring as I go just a little at a time until it's close. The last one I did fit perfectly with zero side play. The spindles attach by squeezing onto a spacer that fits and pivots snugly into the axle casting. These spacers need to be removed, cleaned, and freshly greased. The spacers are slightly longer than the hole in the casting and the through bolts clamps the knuckle portions to these spacers.

Hope this helps.

[56cub]

Ok thanks for the sugestions. I would not have thought to squeeze to axel channel back together. Also does anyone know where I could by new bushings for the axel pivot?

[Dave C]

Matt,

To answer your question Yes if you take the complete 129 axle and spindles it will go right into the 147. In fact front axles are pretty much forward and backward compatible for prob 30 years of the cubs. so long you use the entire assembly.
There is no question that the WF front axle was a slightly better design, and ultimately a stronger design.
The biggest single issue with the NF axle is where the drag link bracket pins to the front left spindle... all the torque is put heavily on this pin and ends up with tons of slop. There is a way to improve this connection although its hard to explain.
First start by drilling out this hole through the bracket and spindle to 3/8. get yourself like a 2 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt and nut and be sure it fits though both parts. Next remove the bracket from the spindle and turn it upsidedown. its bascially a collar welded to flat stock. take a sawzall and cut a releif joint 90 degrees to the pin hole about 80 percent down. so this collar is almost cut in half. Now once you reinstall this on the spindle and tighten the bolt down it will "clamp" down on the spindle.
i could prob get some pics if you want.

BTW wayne was describing how to cleanup the WF axle. there are no spacers in the NF axle.
however resizing the axle channel is a good idea in either case.

hope this helps
dave

[ksanders]

Dave,
Ever considered a write-up on that? I understand it perfectly and never thought of it. Excellent suggestion that I'm trying next time have a bad one.

On a side note, the 80's moldy tractors use a very similar design to the older Cub NF design but both the spindle and collar are splined similar to that of a SGT hydro coupler. It was a nice design for a greeny.

[wshytle]

Dave, Thanks for clearing that up. I'm a wf kinda guy mostly and was thinking that way the whole time. I don't want to mislead anyone either. The sad thing is I have several nf tractors and know the front spindles differ...brain fart. I even have a nice 147 I bought two years ago and haven't had time yet to get it running. It was early morning too. Thanks again.

Matt... what he said.

[Dave C]

Kevin,

Yea theres prob 6 or so write-ups i would love to do..... time is the problem! Maybe ill get to a few of them this winter as i only have 2 tractor projects id like to complete, add dual spool to a 1650, and finish the 123 resto... and 3 bedrooms to overhaul....and work and see my girlfriend... and go skiiing....

As far as the spindles... the cyclops series used a more similar design as the narrow frame but also used a splined connection to the left spindle. you could use the entire assembly but i dont think the spindles will interchange.... its got me thinking although!

wayne,
ive had a few brain farts over the years.... and was torn apart by others. luckily not on this forum. so i dont try to tear people up, i just correct them and move on.

[56cub]

Matt,

To answer your question Yes if you take the complete 129 axle and spindles it will go right into the 147. In fact front axles are pretty much forward and backward compatible for prob 30 years of the cubs. so long you use the entire assembly.
There is no question that the WF front axle was a slightly better design, and ultimately a stronger design.
The biggest single issue with the NF axle is where the drag link bracket pins to the front left spindle... all the torque is put heavily on this pin and ends up with tons of slop. There is a way to improve this connection although its hard to explain.
First start by drilling out this hole through the bracket and spindle to 3/8. get yourself like a 2 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt and nut and be sure it fits though both parts. Next remove the bracket from the spindle and turn it upsidedown. its bascially a collar welded to flat stock. take a sawzall and cut a releif joint 90 degrees to the pin hole about 80 percent down. so this collar is almost cut in half. Now once you reinstall this on the spindle and tighten the bolt down it will "clamp" down on the spindle.
i could prob get some pics if you want.

BTW wayne was describing how to cleanup the WF axle. there are no spacers in the NF axle.
however resizing the axle channel is a good idea in either case.

hope this helps
dave

Thanks for the explanation. You eplained so well that I can understand it without pictures.

Once I get time to closely examine the axel and steering on my my 147 I decide on how to proceed from there.

[ReicheP]

One of the knuckles on my 682 isn't taking grease on the lower bushing. It seems like an easy job to remove the knuckle bolt and clean it out. Are there any precautions to consider when removing the knuckle bolt?

[Dave C]

paul,

Not really.. drive the bolt out... remove the spindle and then remove the spacer... this is usually the tough part cause they get froze in the axle from too much grease.... clean it up well.. pump some grease through the zerk to flush out the old shit and reinstall everything.
dave

[Klapatta]

Here's a shot of the split collar method, it is slotted but grease is packed in the slot making the slot hard to see.
The top cap has also been welded for extra strength

DSCN3432.JPG (122.08 KiB) Viewed 6602 times

The taper pin method is another option and I like this one better, the further the pin is driven the tighter the assembly gets. I have been running this one for probably ten years now and have never had an issue with it backing out.

DSCN3434.JPG (96.87 KiB) Viewed 6602 times

[ReicheP]

Anyone ever sourced the spacer from say McMaster Carr?

steering knuckle spacer.gif (23.72 KiB) Viewed 6581 times

[ReicheP]

Using the bolt I was able to loosen up the spacer and with a big drift and hammer drove it out. Time to clean it all up and reinstall. Actually a pretty simple operation.

[Farmallgray]

The only thing you may run into is the length of the drag link. It may not be the right length but you may be able to use the one from the wide frame.