Chevy points installed

[CDLong]

Removed QA-36A and mounted 1B tiller on 1450 w/ single hydraulics and removed front & rear 42" blades then mounted 44" deck on 1450 w/ dual hydraulics. I had timing problem with this tractor after I rebuilt the engine last year. The 1st tractor fired right up after sitting the winter, (we had no snow deep enough to need plowing). The 2nd 1450 needed ether to get her started. While mowing, I had several backfires and when I shut her off, I had run on for a bit. The engine was extremely hot and I nknew from last year the timing was off again.Rather than fight the Kohler points, I decided to purchase Chevy points, bracket and cover. Lakota Racing was the chewapest @ $35.00 + shipping. I purchased 2 sets. Once they arrived, (shipping seemed to be slow), I removed the Kohler points, cleaned the block and screws holes with carb cleaned, let them dry and mounted the Chevy bracket with medium Loc-tite. I used loc-tite on all the screws. Once everything was installed, I hooked up the timing light and cranked the engine. No timing mark was visable. I let the starter cool and cranked again while rotating the points adjusting screw. it took several crank & cools before I found the mark and got the timing adjusted correctly. Run like a completely different tractor now.

[TWheaton]

Let us know how the Chevy points hold up.
I put them on a 1250 and they lasted for a shorter time than the Kohler points.
They are easy to adjust , that's for sure.
I think all points made today are inferior to those made back a few years.

[Klapatta]

Perhaps premium quality aftermarket points could be considered. They can be offered by outfits such as Summit Racing with who I have been very pleased with.

acc-110127_w.jpg (11.2 KiB) Viewed 6181 times

I have always felt that the stock Kohler points can be somewhat fiddily things to adjust- while it's easy enough to static set them, getting the timing mark dead on with the engine running using a timing light never seems to be a first time affair for me, there's always that little bit of movement when snugging down on the lock screw.
I have had David Kirks Points Saver on one of my tractors for many years now and it does extend points life by reducing voltage at the points from a voltage transfer function to a signal function- it has proven very reliable over the years.
Is the Chevy points kit installed enclosed in it's own weather proof box or is it exposed to the elements?

[ksanders]

I've never had any luck adjusting new Kohler points per the manual. I'm sure its just me but for some reason just one of those things that never work out for me. I did it with the 1650 with new points last month and it ran so hot it would die. I used the time tested method of adjusting it while running until it sounded best and almost all vibration disappeared from the motor and it ran for well over an hour cutting thick grass trouble free. I almost always adjust them by sound while running anymore and can't remember the last set I had to actually go bad. Just always throw a new condenser on with it. For what they cost why chance it.

[CDLong]

The Chevy points cover is not weatherproof. I cleaned the surfaces with mineral spirits and applied marine silcone to them. I may have spoken too soon. I mowed for 30 minutes yesterday and had 2 backfires. I also noticed several hesitations. I could feel engine hesitate then come right back. I'll be double checking the timing and replacing the coil and condensor. I'll also check the valve adjustments. Carb seems to be fine. I checked adjustments after I set the timing.

[Klapatta]

I used to think that a coil either works or not at all.
Not anymore
For years I struggled with one machine that was nothing but trouble to start when cold. That was very fustrating when there was work to be done. It also had a funny sort of pop pop exhaust sound sometimes. I had gone through everything on the engine multiple times until I finally just assumed it was the nature of the beast. The thing that really threw me the curve ball throughout all that was I had changed the coil twice- they were both bad
One day, that problem went away the moment I mounted a Bosch Blue on, it starts on the second revolution now

I can also report very good results with the NAPA coil made in Argentina, P/N 7-01634

The Bosch Silver is another good choice. Less costly than the Bosch Blue, it is an electric identical unit to the Blue manufactured in Brazil under contract by Lucas.
I have had good luck with that one also. This one can be identified by it's satin silver case, black cap, and 2" square blue Bosch label. There are reports of a Lucas symbol under the Bosch label however I can't confirm that.

Beware of Bosch Blue knockoffs- there are a load of them out there. The genuine part is stamped on the bottom with a part number of 9 220 08 083. Here's the real deal-

There is a website that can be found pretty easy on Google images that identifies these Bosch imitation knock offs although I can't recall the sites name, it's really pretty easy to find. It makes for a very good read and is quite an eye opener as well it does state to avoid all the ones from Mexico for one thing.
I once used a blue knockoff that came from China- that thing was a POS. Hope this helps

[Klapatta]

Here's a shot of the Bosch silver. Internal resistor, good choice

[Klapatta]

Shown are three good coil choices in my opinion-
NAPA 7-01634

Bosch Silver, it's plain to see this one has stood the test of time. These next two images are wired with the points saver modification so disregard the incorrect wiring-

Genuine Bosch blue

There must be markings on the bottom like this otherwise it's a knockoff reproduction

[Farmallgray]

Doggone Ken. Now I have to go home and check the one I got for my Son's puller. I was able to get
it through NAPA so I hope it is the better one.

Here is the website you were talking about;
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html

[Farmallgray]

Mine is the better one made in Brazil. So apparently the ones we sell at NAPA are the good ones.

[CDLong]

Two mowing later, the engine is still running hot, (I know it's running hot by comparing both the 1450 engines after they have been running WOT for 15 minutes), and runs on 4-6 revolutions after key is turned off. Any ideas?

[SWilliams]

Sounds like it's running lean. VERY common if you're using the current "gas" with ethanol in it. Mine will run hot if I run booze fuel but settles down and runs fine with non - alcoholic fuel....

[CDLong]

Thanks, I guess I'll have to try gas from my local marina.

[CDLong]

She was running wy to lean. Adjusted carb and now she runs great. New problem, gotta replace the muffler box. Heat must have been too much for it.