Long Neglected Original/K-161

[OriginalMark]

So, I'm thinkin I would like to see how much this old engine sputters and smokes before I tear into this tractor and completely restore it. I realize going through the motor is a good thing but If it's still relatively fresh inside, I would like to put it off. Anyway, The motor turns over nicely. I figure the carb is in need of some TLC and I probably need a coil, spark plug and fresh oil before she'll give me signs of life. Any others suggestions besides obviously removing the cobwebs from the intake?

[wdeturck]

Soak that carb in carb cleaner and blow it out good and put a new carb kit on it. check gas tank for rust and clean if necessary (put small nuts and carb cleaner in it and tie it to a wheel of a running tractor and wash it out a couple of times and you will need a magnet to get the nuts out of it. Put it on the engine and hook up the wiring and put in a new plug. If you don't have a spark tester go to Harbor Freight and buy an in line spark tester. Down load the K161 manual and set the adjustments and give it a spin. Before you put the plug in put your thumb over the hole and check for compression.If it don't attempt to start you will have to look at the valves. Good luck

[JMotuzick]

Points, condencer, plug, a carb kit and what ever the fuel lines/tank need and it should run. As geezer suggested you can try to file the points... It's your call. I seldom replace a coil unless I know it's bad, they can be a bit more pricy then the rest of the ignition system.

[ksanders]

Also check the inside of the flywheel housing for mouse nests. They love to get in there. I've started to make a habit of that on one's that have set a while. They'll either cause overheating or possibly catch fire under the gas tank.

[VScott]

Throw some ether to it and let it rock and roll.

[OriginalMark]

Looks like the points are nearly brand new however the push-rod doesn't move to bring them together when I turn the motor. What am I missing? Also, the carb is pretty rough. Both the throttle and the choke are frozen after being soaked in penetrant for over 2days...

[dag1450]

Mark...I'm looking on my phone so its kinda small but i think I would call that carb "toast"! Pits, corrosion, frozen....if u r committed to this tractor it would b money well spent for a good used carb. Maybe pick another item to skimp or bandaid. Lol.......and I speak from experience with Band-Aids. Lol. Dave

[OriginalMark]

Dave, Im starting to lean that direction on the carb. It's pretty rough...

[ReicheP]

After market carbs on Amazon around $54 bucks.

[wdeturck]

The K161 came with an Aluminium Push Rod and it it is it''s probably gaulded so take the points off and put penetrating oil and use a vise grip to pull it out' and replaced that pin with a steel one (KH-41-411-01 looks like the Aluminum one). Get a steel one or if it's steel keep working it in the hole till it moves freely.
The price on that push rod on Parts Tree . Com is 20.94 plus shipping. I know I found the steel ones cheaper. not much
Stens # 055-461 Breaker Push Rod for KOHLER 47 411 04 S ... should be a lot cheaper http://www.amazon.com/Stens-055-461-Bre ... B00CNVETDS
Buy a used one

[OriginalMark]

Geezer, I think you are on to something. It is aluminum. I will replace it and hopefully that takes care of this problem.

[OriginalMark]

Paul, I noticed the Kiehan carb for sale on Amazon. I'm assuming it's a Chinese repro. Anyone used these? I don't want to go there if it's a cheap carb that cops out after a few years...

[wdeturck]

"BUY A USED ONE"
That is retail and Stens usually gives at least 50% off of list price. I know I have a couple of them but not sure where I hid them.

[OriginalMark]

Geezer, what would you consider a good price for a used one?

[wdeturck]

$$ including mailing it in an envelope taped to a piece of paper. I'm looking around to see if I can find where I hid my extras. They don't wear(steel or aluminum)

[OriginalMark]

So... Update on the carb situation. I have been soaking the carb in PB Blaster penetrant for a few days now. I got it mostly disassembled however the throttle is still frozen solid (I broke the linkage off trying to free it up). I'm going to give it another day or so soaking then I'm going to resort to drastic measures. If I can get it out, I'm going to try re-building the carb but I'm probably gonna need a new throttle shaft with lever and plate. Any idea where I can get those parts?

In other news, the points situation is good to go. The push-rod is un-stuck and working the points fine.

I do have a new developement though. The intake valve is stuck open... Any recommendations on how to unstick it without removing the head?

[tc429]

I'd say just pull the head and be done with it - its easy, and you will be able to get all the likely aluminum corrosion off the chamber/piston face, clean up ridge that might be there, etc..., and really clean up the valves...our old cub had both valves stuck after sitting a few years, popping them out(after gently tapping them down/cranking open, lubing, and polishing stems in spring widow before forcing out) and polishing up the 'dirty' part was easy... take a few minutes with a hand lapper and some compound to reseat valves while at it...

I hadnt realized point rod was aluminum...what were they thinking...