1.) The Exhaust manifold on my CC 1772 has broke again. This will be the second time I have replaced this due to it cracking. Something is causing this that I need to address. Mt thought is that since I mainly just throw snow with the tractor (and run it at high RPMS then) this is the time when it breaks. I am thinking that the heat/cold contraction expansion is why it keeps breaking. also have the muffler mounted upright as opposed to horizontal - would this be a possible reason ? To remedy this I thought about cutting the muffler bracket (where my finger is in the photo) and attach some muffler spring there for support. The way the bracket and muffler/manifold are bolted on, there is no "give" for expansion, and this is when and why it breaks. Please let me know your thoughts.
2.) ignition switch replacement. I bought a new switch to put in, but holy cow is it tight where the existing one comes out. What is the trick or maneuver to successfully get the old one out and put a new one in ? does the dash pedestal come off ? help!
help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignition
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- First and Last Name: John Gorowsky
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help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignition
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- dag1450
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Re: help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignit
Sorry to hear this John! Couple things that come to mind.....u cant use the muffler stack as a handrail to ad getting on and off....u cant have the stack higher than your head...while standing next to the tractor....and lastly...r u the neighborhood scrooge that kids throw snowballs at....maybe one nailed it!
No really...i didnt know this was a problem and would b interested to hear if others have had this happen? That cant b a cheap part to replace, and did the other one break in the same spot? Did u check the "plain" or flatness of the three exhaust holes on the head..and on the manifold..that could cause undo stress and cause it to break in the same spot. Im not sure i see springs giving enough support....but maybe someone else will think differently. Maybe Big mike or other will let us know if welding cast will work in this setup? keep us posted. I just thought of one more thing....i have a machine right now that if it idles at just the right rpm..... the stack goes into a shaking fit of rage!! Its almost scary! Dave
No really...i didnt know this was a problem and would b interested to hear if others have had this happen? That cant b a cheap part to replace, and did the other one break in the same spot? Did u check the "plain" or flatness of the three exhaust holes on the head..and on the manifold..that could cause undo stress and cause it to break in the same spot. Im not sure i see springs giving enough support....but maybe someone else will think differently. Maybe Big mike or other will let us know if welding cast will work in this setup? keep us posted. I just thought of one more thing....i have a machine right now that if it idles at just the right rpm..... the stack goes into a shaking fit of rage!! Its almost scary! Dave
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Re: help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignit
It's possible that the muffler going up could cause enough extra torque to crack the manifold, BUT I've seen a lot of them run that way without an issue. I would almost bet that the head is not flat across the ports and that is causing stress on that ear. From the look of the break I would probably clean it up, toss it on the BBQ to bake out any oil/crud, then clean it again and braze the ear back on. Check the head surfaces over and see if they are true. If not you could add some braze to the face of the flange to compensate for that. Next I might add a small brace to the front of the muffler similar to the regular brace. Then add studs for the manifold, tighten it first, then tighten the braces.
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Re: help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignit
John - Welcome to the forum!
As dag and Steve say, check flatness very carefully. Bolt exhaust manifold up before attaching brace, making sure that brace is not trying to force the manifold somewhere it doesn't want to be. I don't see springs helping in this situation. Another brace as Steve suggests might help, but I don't recall other posts of this nature in any of the Kubota powered Cubs (gas or diesel). Again, make sure any type of brace is lined up perfectly, don't force into position which will stress the manifold.
Since this appears to not be a common problem, I would look to something specific to your tractor that is causing the problem. If the head is not flat, it should't be too expensive to get it machined flat at a head shop, just a pain to remove and do the work. They could probably machine the exhaust manifold too if needed.
Also, the Kubota engines are prone to vibration at anything but full throttle. You mention "running at high rpms then" when blowing snow. These are governed engines and are always meant to be run at full throttle, that is best for the engine and transmission even if just putting across they yard. Although I don't have a diesel, I do have two of the same engine in the gas version and they make a nasty vibration at anything below 2400 rpm, and as dag says can be especially bad at idle. You don't need a tach to do this; just pay attention to the vibration; don't let it run in any of the slower rpm that generate vibration. Again, they run smoothest at full throttle.
To combat this, I only use low idle for shut down. If getting off the tractor temporarily, I will let idle at about 2500 rpm, above where it starts "getting the shakes".
The diesels are also know for driveline vibration at this age. If you have driveline vibration, go through and replace the bushings and rag joints. Eliminating a vibration problem from this could make the difference.
Lastly, I suspect a vertical stack isn't a problem unless it is being used as a "grab bar" as dag suggests, or unless it has been extended, adding weight.
As dag and Steve say, check flatness very carefully. Bolt exhaust manifold up before attaching brace, making sure that brace is not trying to force the manifold somewhere it doesn't want to be. I don't see springs helping in this situation. Another brace as Steve suggests might help, but I don't recall other posts of this nature in any of the Kubota powered Cubs (gas or diesel). Again, make sure any type of brace is lined up perfectly, don't force into position which will stress the manifold.
Since this appears to not be a common problem, I would look to something specific to your tractor that is causing the problem. If the head is not flat, it should't be too expensive to get it machined flat at a head shop, just a pain to remove and do the work. They could probably machine the exhaust manifold too if needed.
Also, the Kubota engines are prone to vibration at anything but full throttle. You mention "running at high rpms then" when blowing snow. These are governed engines and are always meant to be run at full throttle, that is best for the engine and transmission even if just putting across they yard. Although I don't have a diesel, I do have two of the same engine in the gas version and they make a nasty vibration at anything below 2400 rpm, and as dag says can be especially bad at idle. You don't need a tach to do this; just pay attention to the vibration; don't let it run in any of the slower rpm that generate vibration. Again, they run smoothest at full throttle.
To combat this, I only use low idle for shut down. If getting off the tractor temporarily, I will let idle at about 2500 rpm, above where it starts "getting the shakes".
The diesels are also know for driveline vibration at this age. If you have driveline vibration, go through and replace the bushings and rag joints. Eliminating a vibration problem from this could make the difference.
Lastly, I suspect a vertical stack isn't a problem unless it is being used as a "grab bar" as dag suggests, or unless it has been extended, adding weight.
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2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
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Re: help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignit
Thanks for the input. It appears that changing the stack direction is not likely having any effect. I typically run the engine at the smooth RPM "sweet spots" to minimize vibration. never run it low RPM's. Since no one thinks the heat/cold contraction is the root cause, I will try it again. its possible the head may not be flat, so I will clean and evaluate before assembly. It's also possible that the last time I put it together it was a little "bound" by the bracketry - hence I will install an tighten the manifold first, then the other brackets - making sure they fit together without any stress or pressure. Attached are pics from the break last time - opposite ear. I was able to get a new manifold at the Kubota distributor for $51, so not too costly.
see pics from last time - let me know what you think of these. thanks all of you who responded !
see pics from last time - let me know what you think of these. thanks all of you who responded !
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- vince_o
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Re: help with Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel exhaust manifold / ignit
We see about 4 or 5 of these a year on the Bota ZD mowers. The low rpm is set too low and they shake too much causing things to break. As far as I know Bota dosnt have a fix other than upping the low idle setting on the eng. The older Bx tractors with the plastic hoods and fenders will just shake appart like a deeres hoods do.
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