M18 Fuel Pump

[ReicheP]

It looks like the fuel pump on my 1811 is leaking gas into the crank case. How difficult is it to replace the pump?

Is this another pull the motor job?

[dag1450]

Funny I just did one on my mag 18 about two weeks ago. Not hard cause my motor was out. I took off the sheet metal over the cylinder head and the small piece that has the engine info sticker on. The pump I put on was a Kohler that i had originally bought for my mag 20 rebuild.....so I just reordered a sten $42 eBay ....they all seem to look the same but not sure as I have not received the sten yet. The new fangled fuel connections r pretty cool the way they lock in. Let us know how it goes.

[JMotuzick]

I use the vacuum type pump when I'm working with a bad mechanical pump. I use a blank out plate from a narrow frame fuel pump, then drill and tap for a feul fitting Barb and route the hose out to feed the vacuum side of the vacuum pump. Fuel in and out is marked on the vacuum pump. The total swap out cost me about $15 including the new pump! I've had good results with the China pumps that clone the kohler ones. They are around $8 on eBay. This is how Kohler did things later on in the cyclops era !

[ReicheP]

Joe good idea.

Just wandered out to the shop and found a good vacuum pump off of my Honda GX610 from my 682.

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[JMotuzick]

Paul
That's the pump I run! You will need the blank out for the block like your 1650 just drill and tap for a fuel niple!

[ReicheP]

Question, since the intake is aluminum, do I need to remove it for drilling and taping or can I grease up the drill and tap to catch the aluminum shavings?

[mmzullo]

Remove it

[JMotuzick]

Intake? Drill and tap the fuel pump cover! That's what Kohler did ! Let me find a part number.....

[JMotuzick]

52-096-42. Here is the parts manual...

[ReicheP]

Intake? Drill and tap the fuel pump cover! That's what Kohler did ! Let me find a part number.....

Joe, I'm missing something here. Locate the vacuum pick up in the top of the old fuel pump? The top of the M18 pump had fuel fittings and wouldn't provide vacuum. It would appear easier to just tap into the intake manifold.

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[JMotuzick]

Paul
You are missing something! You need the blank out from a non-fuel pump engine. Drill and tap that. It's item 4 in the picture I posted. Crankcase vacuum will run the pump.

[ReicheP]

Ah okay,now I got it! What I am trying to do is not have to pull the old pump at all.Yes I had the motor out last fall to replace the starter and failed to replace the fuel pump!

Looking at my Honda GX610/Cub 682, I see they do get the vacuum from a crank case fitting but searching the always accurate net, I see vacuum being pulled from the intake.I'm going to try a tap of the intake manifold.

[Tom Scott]

Paul - From what I remember, removing the pump was not hard while it was on the tractor. I am going to join the team to encourage you to pull the pump and replace with the Kohler block-off plate (either the tapped one from Kohler, or one you tap yourself)!

[ReicheP]

Thanks for the encouragement folks, vacuum pump installed and 1811 back in service. Here are a few photos of the job.

I obtained a blank out plate from Vince, a great friend from SC, he must have a whole box of those blank out plates after disposing of all of those Quietlines!. It was drilled out with a "Q" letter drill bit and tapped for 1/8 NPT. The Kohler supplied tapped back off plate is NLA.

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The 90 deg barb on the existing pump can be used. If reusing the pan screws you'll need a few washers under the head.

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I used some ready angle from the local hardware store for a mount. It was bolted on top of the fly wheel cover.

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Here is the finished install. Hose right is gas intake, middle vacuum, left is out to the carb.

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[ReicheP]

To Remove the old pump it's easiest o move the engine side panel out of the way. The fuel pump screws are Phillips drive and located under the pump.

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I found the engine side panel top bolts could be removed and the side panel bent down out of the way. Note if you have a sticky starter during the winter, the side panel can be easily loosened and bent out of the way for a shot of WD 40 on the starter bendix or even a bit of graphite.

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[Tom Scott]

Paul, good mod. I used a #2 Philips bit with a short extension and a 1/4" drive ratchet and avoided pulling off the side engine tin. I'm not a fan of bending it, and it can't be removed properly with it still in the tractor.

Best to stay way from any liquid lube on the starters, just attracts dirt. Dry graphite is the way to go.

Anyway, good mod, you won't have to worry about fuel in the gas from the mechanical pump now.

[ReicheP]

Tom, the side panel bent easily out of the way and reinstalled without a problem.

[vince_o]

Its nice to have friends!

[ReicheP]

Its nice to have friends!

So very true Vince. That's one of the great things about this hobby is the amazing people and friends you have who love to ride around pushing snow, plowing fields and sharing parts!

Thanks again for the blank out plate!