Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Here is where we can talk about all things Cub and then some. Please follow the golden rule and respect others.
This is a free forum and all pictures posted here are for public consumption. They are free to be used as long as you are not using them in a for-profit manner. Also, any pictures subject to copyright or permissions will be removed.
DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Hey fellers-

Yeah, it's been a long time since I frequented IHCC sites heavily... too many irons in the fire... but since I'm workin' on one again, especially since it's a familiar beast to those that've been on this, and the former boards for a while, I figured I should share it with you.

Loader-Mutt is getting a lung transplant.

Actually,, it's a double-lung transplant... the Kohler single is getting replaced with a Briggs Vanguard.

I'll start with the text story, and add pix later....
Attachments
MuttMotorSmall.jpg
MuttMotorSmall.jpg (92.8 KiB) Viewed 11119 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so I was minding my own business... just finishing up working in the yard... fuel isn't out, but getting low, so brought it around to the driveway for some more... idling it down, reached for the ignition switch, but before I got my hand to it, it stopped... and not just died... it STOPPED... Wonk.

Bad deal. I lifted the hood, turned the crank by hand... well, at least... I tried. four degrees and clunk.

Dammit.

Well, suffice to say, I didn't have another K-single handy... and I had a whole lot of things going on, it was blocking progress, so I picked it up with the hyster, carried it to the pole barn, and found it a dry place to wait for my wrenches.

Fast forward three years... and I still haven't changed the engine. Well see... Dad bought this Kubota that he was planning on 'just cleaning up, and selling'... he got it for a good price, but he found more serious problems, which I helped him fix a bit, but the story's too long for here, so story for some other time and place... but the short story, is that I did most of the fixin', and thus, was using the Kubota for those two years. And then it started having problems... leaking ALL it's hydraulic fluid out the bottom of the sump in basically two day stints. Of course, it was just as the first sub-zero-cold was starting, and it's a diesel, sitting outside... with an empty hydrostat sump... And it's starting to snow.

And the snowblade I've been using on the Allis is much too big to get close to the buildings...
And I have a problem with shovels... they're not a 'long term solution' in my back... er... book.

So I went barn-shopping. I found a pair of 18hp Vanguards. I found a fuel tank from a QL... I found a kittycat didn't know we had... (well, apparently he has us now, but he's cool) and my old welding gloves... they're all moldy and shot.

So it was a very cold day, the gravel driveway was finally solid... I fired up the ornery Hyster, whipped it mercilessly as it trudged around to the back, got forks under the Mutt, and carried it to the driveway... set it down, and used the forks, in Mutt's bucket, to push it into the garage, closed the door, turned on the heat, and set it up for a long-awaited caress of steel...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Teasing pictures...
Attachments
Making the drive cup- I started with a piece of tubing, chucked concentric and turned square, clamped and welded to a plate... then turned the plate round, and squared the end so it'd run true...
Making the drive cup- I started with a piece of tubing, chucked concentric and turned square, clamped and welded to a plate... then turned the plate round, and squared the end so it'd run true...
KIMG7109.jpg (94.34 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
Then center-drilled, and bored it to fit close to the flywheel crankshaft nut threads...
Then center-drilled, and bored it to fit close to the flywheel crankshaft nut threads...
KIMG7115.jpg (87.72 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
So now I've got a drive cup...
So now I've got a drive cup...
KIMG7120.jpg (83.56 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
Then clamped and welded a plate to the other end, chucked it into the lathe, rough drilled it enough to reach through and DI it concentric to the crankshaft hole with a Starret Last Word ...  then cut the plate round, and bored the hole true to make a flange...
Then clamped and welded a plate to the other end, chucked it into the lathe, rough drilled it enough to reach through and DI it concentric to the crankshaft hole with a Starret Last Word ... then cut the plate round, and bored the hole true to make a flange...
KIMG7158.jpg (91.88 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Now for the flange yoke... The 1000 series U-joint may be available in a flange-yoke, but I couldn't find one listed anywhere.

No big deal...
Attachments
Start with a conventional yoke... and trim it to some arbitrary reasonable size...
Start with a conventional yoke... and trim it to some arbitrary reasonable size...
KIMG7122.jpg (94.86 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
And make a matching plate for a flange...
And make a matching plate for a flange...
KIMG7123.jpg (110.4 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
and we're getting somewhere...
and we're getting somewhere...
KIMG7124.jpg (93.31 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
Rechuck it, DI it true, and turn that plate into a true and concentric flange...
Rechuck it, DI it true, and turn that plate into a true and concentric flange...
KIMG7154.jpg (101.81 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
It's a flange yoke!
It's a flange yoke!
KIMG7156.jpg (115.08 KiB) Viewed 11098 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Now to make them a pair...
Attachments
KIMG7160.jpg
KIMG7160.jpg (71.56 KiB) Viewed 11101 times
I used the Super Spacer mounted in the Bridgeport to make holes at 90 degree intervals around the flange.  A person could be really scientific about the setup here, but it really doesn't matter with a SuperSpacer... you just pull the lever, spin it to the appropriate indication (in degrees and tenths), and lock it down.
I used the Super Spacer mounted in the Bridgeport to make holes at 90 degree intervals around the flange. A person could be really scientific about the setup here, but it really doesn't matter with a SuperSpacer... you just pull the lever, spin it to the appropriate indication (in degrees and tenths), and lock it down.
KIMG7161.jpg (85.06 KiB) Viewed 11101 times
Tap it to 1/4-20, using a tapered pin in the Bridgeport spindle to keep the tap perpendicular to work...
Tap it to 1/4-20, using a tapered pin in the Bridgeport spindle to keep the tap perpendicular to work...
KIMG7164.jpg (86.97 KiB) Viewed 11101 times
And this end is done!
And this end is done!
KIMG7166.jpg (80.79 KiB) Viewed 11101 times
KIMG7182.jpg
KIMG7182.jpg (95.68 KiB) Viewed 11101 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

And here's the driveshaft... think it'll work? :twisted:
Attachments
KIMG0034.jpg
KIMG0034.jpg (74.67 KiB) Viewed 11096 times
KIMG0033.jpg
KIMG0033.jpg (81.38 KiB) Viewed 11096 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

So, the driveshaft situation... I knew that the Vanguard block would fit I THINK Keith Ehrecke used a 'stub shaft' adapter, either from B&S, or from Midwest SuperCub. Those I see are about a hundred-fifty bucks, and the result is a 5/8" stub to connect to whatever. I don't recall how Keith coupled his driveline, but I knew that the spi-rol pin was a crap idea.

Now, 'yall may remember that when I built this pig, I took the rag-joint from the back, and moved it to the front, put a U-joint in the back... eliminated the pin-type coupler altogether. The pin-coupler works, but as everyone in the Cub Cadet World knows, it ain't the greatest concept in terms of durability... a little wear in the slot, and the slot opens up, and that causes the spi-rol pin to break off flush with the shaft. When I flipped the rag-joint to the front, and put a U-joint to the back, it made my Mutt a WHOLE lot more durable.

I'm turning it up one more notch. Not that the rag-joint didn't work in the front position, because it did... but because the rag is well worn out from being beat up by a somewhat reworked K-single, and single-cylinder engines tend to beat up drivelines (read up on 'service factor' in your engineering handbook) and hence, mine lived a full life, it's been retired (well, what's left of it)... to the trashcan.

My 'new' driveline consists of a me-made coupling to the Vanguard's flywheel face. It's essentially a cup, with a hole in the bottom (for the flywheel nut), two pins (that engage the flywheel drive slot), and a flange at the top (to bolt the U-joint flange). I made it with one piece of 2" round tubing and two pieces of 1/4" plate. I used the lathe to square the tubing, clamped and welded plate to each end, then chucked it in lathe, turned the plate from rough square to concentric round, bored the ends accordingly, and turned the flange, I also faced both ends so that it runs within a half-thou of true overall.

The engine-end U-joint needed to bolt to that flange. Cardan joints (aka 'u-joints') come in a myriad of industry standard form factors. The type that I used for the original IHCC MODS book, I sourced from my favorite local bearing place... they carried SKF parts distributed through Chicago Rawhide... and these joints fit the SAE '1000-series' form-factor. The type I spec'd for the IHCC MODS book were 5/8" shaft with keyway... because the IHCC shaft's natural size is 5/8". For this application, What I WOULD have preferred, is to find an industry standard flange-yoke in a 1000-series, so that I could just be done with the coupler, and bolt a common flange-yoke to it, but I didn't find any flange yokes in a reasonable size and cost. Instead, I chucked one of my 1000-series SKF 5/8" shaft yokes into the lathe (it looks strange, but worked great), and skimmed the shaft side down to make a true edge. Then I cut a piece of plate, bored a hole to snug-fit that yoke, then clamped the plate, tack-welded, and finish welded it together.

Now, before anyone expresses concern re. my welding on a casting, realize- this is NODULAR IRON... or otherwise referred to as CAST STEEL... and it's done under interesting circumstances... they basically flow metal into a press-die mold in a plastic-like state, and mash the heck out of it... it's something like a forging, and the density is very predictable, malleability excellent, and workability is astounding... and it welds beautifully. Clamp it tight, tack it in four places, then let it cool, then finish weld in stages... just the back side, not the front... front side is irregular, which would cause warping of the yoke. Then I chucked it in the lathe, and made the plate round, and concentric. I skimmed the mounting face of the plate so the yoke spins true.

For a driveshaft, what I would have liked the MOST... would have been a 9-spline 5/8 shaft, with a mating socket, and have the socket-end connected to the transaxle U-joint about an inch behind the steering column. Unfortunately, I couldn't find appropriate internal-splined materials for that at a non-astronautical pricetag... so I did the next-best thing- I visited Farm & Fleet's implement department. They have bearings, belts, chain drives and sprockets, hydraulic pumps and... PTO shafts. Unfortunately, they turned out to be akin to a tire shop that carries one of every type of tire, but no valve stems... they had the outer tube with yoke installed... and they had a yoke for the inner shaft, but they didn't have the inner shaft material. I tried Theisen's, and they had ONE yoke... nothing else. I would've thought that a place that carries ag equipment parts would have enough to build a replacement PTO shaft, and this being an SAE standard shaft (it's 3/4" x 7/8" rectangular), they'd have at least enough for a customer in need to make it happen. Apparently, logical is not in their plan, because neither even listed them as stocked parts.

So I went to Sadler Powertrain... they typically do automotive and truck driveshafts, but also do PTO for dumptrucks, heavy equipment, etc., and they had both pieces in a 'standard' 4' length. I bought 'em with 1000-series yokes already welded on, just cut the tube and shaft to length, slip it together, paint, and done...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Now, I haven't mentioned the details of fitting the Vanguard into the IHCC frame. It has WF pedestal, grille, and hood, but I built Loader-Mutt with a frame and engine cradle from a QL-series tractor. When I did, I welded braces between the soft-suspension engine mounts, because they naturally shake apart. The Vanguard engine fits between the engine cradles nicely, but requires redrilling the holes in cradle to line up with one pair of holes. The Vanguard also has no oil drain through the bottom of the pan, which leaves me two choices- either drill and tap a hole in the bottom, or find some way to accomodate the side-pan drain arrangement.

The V-twin also needs a little space at the top of the frame rails. The formed 'lip' adds considerable rigidity to the frame, but I had to cut it away to make space, starting with the shroud area. On the right hand side, there's an electric starter motor, and it requires a LONG removal. On the left side, there's a little around the shroud, and then some for the oil filter.

Side notes- the starter motor's battery lug faces down, and away from the engine in factory arrangement. This places it REALLY close to the frame, and in my case, very inaccessible for service... the hydraulic pump bracket is down there, and there's also two hydraulic lines for the power steering system. To put that terminal in a more sensible position, i loosened the two bolts holding the starter motor shell together, and rotated the shell and endplate 180 degrees, which moved the starter terminal from the 8 o'clock position, to the 2 o'clock position. interestingly enough, this places it with in perfect reach of my original (QL motor) starter terminal wire.

Next, the oil filter. There's several different oil filter setups for these engines. The engine I started with, had an oil filter that 'hugged' the block, which would have required totally removing a healthy chunk of the frame, and worse yet, at a very critical load-point. My solution there, would have been to install an adapter block to the engine, thread in some flexible lines, and install a remote-mount oil filter, and of course, an oil cooler. The second engine, however, had a large-capacity filter that stuck straight out from the side of the engine, and it just so happens that it would be in a position where the left front tire would NOT be able to contact it at any point in steering or axle articulation... so I cut away a bit of the frame for clearance for the filter.

Finally, the oil drain. The drain port is almost centered with the axle spindle, so it won't get struck by anything in normal operation. What I did, was cut a hole through the frame big enough for the 1/2" pipe (engine is NPT) and thread in a pipe nipple long enough to reach out the frame... then I'll put a fitting or two after, which will make a convenient dump point for engine oil through a common cap. I just need to make sure that 1) it's protected from damage and 2) has enough space around it to allow the engine and frame relationship to move a bit on the soft mounts.

Cutting away the frame on any machine risks causing a weak spot to appear at a high stress point. I GUARANTEE you that the places I've removed metal, will cause substantial weakness, simply because of the loader's load-reaction. So far, I've had NO issues with running this loader, with a hydraulic power steering system, and lifting a fully dressed small-block Chevy into the back of a pickup truck... and I've had no chassis issues. I plan on keeping it that way... by taking the frame brackets in place for the front stanchion braces, and extending their length all the way to the front face of the frame... that way, lift force from the stanchions will be transferred to the frame DIRECTLY ABOVE the axle beam's frame mounting point... so the amount of actual vertical force on the original tractor's frame in the newly-weakened areas will be abslolutely zero.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

TWheaton
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:31 pm
First and Last Name: Tim Wheaton
Location: Sebring, FL

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by TWheaton »

It's amazing to see what you can do and make it look easy. I'm sure there are other talented folk here, but you sure make it interesting. Thanks for the time and effort to share.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Hey TIm!

Well, there's some parts that look easy, and some that are easier said than done. Many are easier by virtue of the tools at hand... but not having the tools doesn't make it impossible. The MOST important part of any project, is seeing something in your head, and believing that it CAN be done, and then believing in yourself to make it happen.

There's many people who have the income to have professional services do things like fabrication and machining... but I'm not that guy... and frankly, if you take a part to a machine shop or fabricator, with an idea in your head that's any more complicated than "Need a hole exactly here, exactly this diameter", getting a desired result gets really complex, and really expensive. I ain't that guy, so over the years, I've gathered some tools and learned some skills that counteract limited budget... and fortunately, those tools serve me well beyond working on Cub Cadet tractors.

I didn't start out with a mess of big tools. My dad had a small workshop in the basement level of my boyhood home... and the basement level was also the same level as the garage where he kept his antique cars. I remember being underneath footboards of the Model A's, holding nuts while he turned bolts holding the footboard brackets. He had handheld electric drills, a propane torch, three different sized hammers, pliers, a belt sander, some chisels, an electric jigsaw, and a shelf with baby-food jars of nuts and bolts.... very basic home maintenance type stuff. One of the gadgets he had, which I'm glad he never actually put to use in my presence, was a lever-operated hand-drill holding fixture... a 'poor man's drill press'.

When I was eleven, I managed to talk him into buying a 'genuine' 1/3hp belt-driven benchtop drill press. I don't think he ever regretted that $120 purchase, but I'm certain that I used it more in the next six years than he did. With my lawn-mowing money, I bought some 'rotary files'... and that drill press became a milling machine. I bought HIM a cordless electric drill (remember the grey ones with battery built into the drill, you had to plug the charger into it and wait every time the 4v ni-cd pack went dead?)... I used to chuck round pieces into the drill press, clamp that cordless drill to the platform with a rotary file in the drill, and turn pieces of metal down... I'd use a file-placed flat on the table, to make things precise... and I'd use a dremel in similar fashion to grind a shape I couldn't file... all of which probably made my dad nervous at times... but he wasn't as much a metal-working guy, as he was a woodworker. As I delved more into electronics, internal combustion, and metallic stuff, he advanced in working with dead tree materials...

Don't ever ask me what I did with my dad's router and table saw...

So making stuff with whatever's around is basically second-nature.

When I moved out, one of the first things I purchased, was a drill press... not a floor-type, but a large bench-type... a 3/4hp motor, 1/2" spindle, 5-speed. I set the belt for lowest speed, and probably didn't change to any other speed but possibly 4 times... and I used it for... well... I still had that drill press when I made Loader-Mutt's first version driveline (the one in the IHCC MODS doc). I owned that drill up 'till the day that Ann and I moved to THIS house... after that, I gave it to a close friend, because I had acquired a few tools down there that were much, much larger, so I didn't need the little one anymore.

If you're gonna do things like this, there's a few things you absolutely WILL need. A drill press is certainly one of them. A handheld 4" grinder is another. A oxy-acetylene torch is necessary for some things, but a guy with a cordless drill, a pile of bits, and lots of patience can make the hole. I use an air-powered die grinder to clean up what the 4" grinder cannot reach... an electric die grinder will do it, too.

It's not easy to make parts concentric and true without a lathe... it is the 'mother of all machine tools', in that you can make most any other tool, including a lathe, with a lathe... not something easily done with any other tool. Lathes are expensive tools by most people's standards, especially when one says "I need one that I can carry into this garage and put here"... they're in high demand, and they're not very strong. If you look for an old, used, industrial piece, they're much less expensive. They take up more space, weigh tons (literally), and need something more than a typical 20A 120v plug, but they're endlessly useful gadgets that turn the images in your head, to pieces in your hand.

Even in well-worn state, my old lathe helped me turn several machines destined for scrap heap, into my workshop. Here's the 'short' list:

--Johannsen radial drill. It's a drill-press, but in a much larger scale. Not as large as a Fosdick, but it has reach, capacity, and rigidity that not common floor-mount drill can match. I bought it as just the base and column... the head was long gone. I made an adapter, and fitted a half-junk Bridgeport J-head to it... I say half-junk because it was missing most of it's power-downfeed parts, motor, etc... and it was full of rust and mud. It was on a machine, in a building that collapsed during Hurricane Katrina... it was given to me by a friend down there in compensation for transporting some machine parts to him while on a biz road trip. I worked hard getting that bugger disassembled, I cleaned up the spindle, managed to clean out the bearings, and make it all operate, then I used the lathe to make adapters and driveline to make it drill... and also made an electric motor drive system to raise and lower the table, because hand-cranking takes for EVER.

--Old Bridgeport mill. I bought this on auction from the DRMO at the Rock Island Arsenal. Contrary to what an average garage-warrior thinks, the Bridgeport BRJ mill isn't a 'big' machine. At 7' tall, 4' wide and 4' deep, 1500lbs and 3hp, it is 'small'. Reason why we say this, is because I can move it around the shop with a pallet jack. My Cincinatti #5 vertical mill is 11,540lbs, 7' wide, 8' long, and 10' tall, and I move it either with an Allis-Chalmers D17 and a special pallet, or a Clark IT-60 forklift. The big Cinci doesn't get used all that often, but the old Bridgeport fits inside the heated garage, so it gets used for lots of milling, drilling, and tapping operations. between the rotary indexing table, the Super Spacer, and several vises, the Bridgie is the swiss-army knife of milling... and between the Bridgeport and the lathe, I can make tools and fixtures for additional milling and lathe work.

--Monarch 10EE lathe. This one still has it's tag from the Rock Island Arsenal, I bought it on auction from the DRMO at same time as the Bridgeport. Did I mention that both this and the BRJ were marked as 'ineconomical to repair?'... this one also had a big bright-green tag that said "CERTIFIED NO LONGER RADIOACTIVE"... it was originally delivered to Ford Motor Company in 1942, to Clinton, Tennessee... by flatcar... offloaded onto a truck, in nowhere... it spent the first 40ish years of it's life as part of nuclear program work... it was pulled out and transferred to RIA, where it made parts for other things... eventually they phased it out, and it wound up in my shop. It wouldn't run in forward... only reverse. Turns out that it was in need of one contactor coil, which I couldn't find at a cost within my budget, , so I took the coil out, screwed it to a block of wood, chucked it into the lathe (it's own spindle!) and started the lathe in slow reverse. As it turned, I unwrapped the coil onto a spool. I had a mechanical turns-counter (used for hay bailers to count bales) tripped by a deck-screw sticking out of the wood block) to count how many turns of wire were on that coil. Eventually, I got to the burned spot... had to tie off and unwrap the rest... then I reversed the process, wrapped new wire from a spool onto the coil, soldered the wires, and put the lathe back in operation. Many years have passed, and I've long since converted that lathe to variable-frequency AC drive, but it's still living life and turning dreams to real.

I've got a large air compressor. It's a four-cylinder Brunner, probably made in the late '30's. It suffered a really worn crankshaft bushing when I got it... motor was cooked, but tank was good. I pulled the compressor apart, replaced three piston rings, cleaned up all the valves, made a couple of gaskets, made two new crankshaft bushings, installed and line-bored them, had to turn, sleeve, and precision grind the crankshaft to accept a new lip seal, then put it all back together with a 5hp single-phase motor, and a control box. i've got plumbing going all around the shop, into the basement of the house (for blowing out my yard spigots, and running air tools, blowing out parts, etc), and out into the other shop buildings for same. I've got air tanks in all the other buildings, too... to augment supply and prevent pressure drops when running hungry tools at long distances... but being in the garage, that Brunner is always nice an warm, air is dry, and it's quiet.

I've got plenty of welders... mostly industrial-grade three-phase machines I've converted to single phase. Since they're three-phase and several decades old, they can be found cheap on auction or third-hand, converted to single-phase, and put back into action. If you'd like a serious welder on a low budget, do a web-search for 'Haas-Kamp Welder'.

Oxy-acetylene torch... "Smoke Wrench"... Lucifer's Toothpick. One thing I learned long ago... metal is awesome stuff. Another, is that it can be rather difficult to work with... cut, bend, etc., and the thicker it is, the harder it is to work with. Unless it's really warm... then it gets really easy to work with. Amazingly, you can cut steel with kitchen scissors when it's so hot you can see through it... (don't tell my wife!) Of course, you can screw up the temper of metal doing it, so it's good to know a little about metallurgy when you employ heat. The torch is useful for expediting fastener removals, making funky shapes, and fixing boo-boos... it's also exemplary at burning down your shop... I've been fortunate to avoid that experience so far.

Everything else, fits into the small-tools list. A sawzall with metal-cutting blade is a great tool. An air cutoff tool with disk is awesome too. Rotary burrs from Fastenal are metal-eating monsters in the die-grinder, but hang on tight! Measuring ability is a must for precise work, but measuring can be done without fancy measuring tools. As I get older, a dozen pairs of 'cheater' glasses have entered my life... the pair that has LEDS mounted in the frames is priceless!

The most important tool, however, is your brain. Envision something, as it would be in-situ. Look at what's happening, and account for motion, flex, vibration, torsion, tension, compression, heat, dust, dirt, oil, and corrosion. Consider safety... containment of damage when things break... where things will fly and flop, and where operator and other living things are. Then look for common and inexpensive materials and parts to do the job you want to do. Once you've built it in your head, gather all the pieces... and start building in your shop. Don't forget to build it so that you can actually assemble it, but also service and disassemble for service easily. An easy-to-maintain machine, gets maintained better, more frequently, and at much less expense than one that isn't easy to maintain.

Oh, and all this work... is much easier when you're possessed. My wife knows I'm possessed, and she's fine with it, as long as I keep the budget very small. ;)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

JMotuzick
Moderator
Posts: 1172
Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:22 pm
First and Last Name: Joe Motuzick
Location: Torrington Ct

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by JMotuzick »

Gota love having Dave back! But we want pictures! Let's see more of the loader mutt repower!

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

So with everything but a fuel tank in there...
Attachments
Looking like it fits.jpg
Looking like it fits.jpg (153.19 KiB) Viewed 11061 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

I wanted to use a QL fuel tank... but there's not quite enough headroom underneath the hood... I'd hafta cut a hole in it and make a 'shaker' scoop to hide it... :roll:

But that's okay... I really want a 5-gallon or so capacity. Also, I'm gonna take the Group 24 battery off the rack in the back, remove the counterweights, put a new counterweight box back there (tapered in back for departure angle clearance), load the bottom with heavy ballast, then put a 4D battery in it, then put a 5-gallon tank above it... mebbie two posts either side of center back for a small removable canopy (rain and snow protection) with LEDs under it front and back (branch clearance)...

but for right now, I'll just keep to getting this engine in and going, make it workable, and come back to that a little later...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

User avatar
dag1450
Posts: 2356
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
Location: Chalfont, Pa

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by dag1450 »

This is quite a machine. Good job on the new engine and fancy driveshaft. Wow....What a driveshaft! Guys could sure use something like that for the diesels! Good luck with it! :beer:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

On the subject of clearances...
Yeah, here's details of how the Vanguard twin actually 'fits'...
Attachments
We have plenty of engine space for this type of exhaust... it exits below the lip of the hood, so a 3" extension tube will work out nicely, and not get hit by the loader arm cylinders.  The toothed-belt PTO drive has ample room to clear the frame and grille casting.  One issue, is the loader's right hand stanchion being against hydraulic lines.  I'll fix that.
We have plenty of engine space for this type of exhaust... it exits below the lip of the hood, so a 3" extension tube will work out nicely, and not get hit by the loader arm cylinders. The toothed-belt PTO drive has ample room to clear the frame and grille casting. One issue, is the loader's right hand stanchion being against hydraulic lines. I'll fix that.
KIMG0051.jpg (106.36 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Clearance on this engine will always be tight around the starter motor.  You'll need to rotate the motor shell 180 degrees to get the terminal on the top, rather than down against the frame.  My PTO pump bracket looks like it's close, but it's actually not.
Clearance on this engine will always be tight around the starter motor. You'll need to rotate the motor shell 180 degrees to get the terminal on the top, rather than down against the frame. My PTO pump bracket looks like it's close, but it's actually not.
KIMG0048.jpg (99.88 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
That air filter housing is too tall for the QL tank.  Actually, it's too tall for the WF tank, too...
That air filter housing is too tall for the QL tank. Actually, it's too tall for the WF tank, too...
KIMG0054.jpg (96.02 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
IF the air filter arrangement was relocated elsewhere, either QL or WF tank MIGHT fit...
IF the air filter arrangement was relocated elsewhere, either QL or WF tank MIGHT fit...
KIMG0057.jpg (89.52 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Here's the clearancing act on the right side frame rail, viewed from inside-out.
Here's the clearancing act on the right side frame rail, viewed from inside-out.
KIMG0065.jpg (105.36 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

More CubPorn...
Attachments
And how the left side looks... note the lift arm bracket bolted to outside of the frame... I built those 20 years ago... I'll extend them to reduce stress in the areas I've trimmed for clearance.
And how the left side looks... note the lift arm bracket bolted to outside of the frame... I built those 20 years ago... I'll extend them to reduce stress in the areas I've trimmed for clearance.
KIMG0067.jpg (76.55 KiB) Viewed 11077 times
Here's what my stanchion brace bracket looks like...notice no wear on the bolt holes in frame... they did their job well... I'll extend their duties a bit...
Here's what my stanchion brace bracket looks like...notice no wear on the bolt holes in frame... they did their job well... I'll extend their duties a bit...
KIMG0068.jpg (92.3 KiB) Viewed 11077 times
Clearance around the oil filter... yes, it clears the tire with room to spare.  I may fabricate a 'guard' to bolt to the frame around this, to protect it from anything flung up from the front tire.
Clearance around the oil filter... yes, it clears the tire with room to spare. I may fabricate a 'guard' to bolt to the frame around this, to protect it from anything flung up from the front tire.
KIMG0069.jpg (63.45 KiB) Viewed 11077 times
Gonna need a hole through here for the oil pan drain...
Gonna need a hole through here for the oil pan drain...
KIMG0070.jpg (68.3 KiB) Viewed 11077 times
There's the hole...
There's the hole...
KIMG0071.jpg (83.55 KiB) Viewed 11077 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

This morning's work...
Attachments
This brace is up against some hydraulic lines...  and the grinding-work I did, isn't quite enough so...
This brace is up against some hydraulic lines... and the grinding-work I did, isn't quite enough so...
KIMG0074.jpg (111.42 KiB) Viewed 11079 times
Add a piece to it... two rosette welds, and fillets on the end...
Add a piece to it... two rosette welds, and fillets on the end...
KIMG0075.jpg (117.51 KiB) Viewed 11079 times
And from the side...
And from the side...
KIMG0077.jpg (119.75 KiB) Viewed 11079 times
Cut out the chunk...and weld the seams...
Cut out the chunk...and weld the seams...
KIMG0078.jpg (102.79 KiB) Viewed 11079 times
And likewise, extend the side plates a bit...
And likewise, extend the side plates a bit...
KIMG0079.jpg (78.93 KiB) Viewed 11079 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

User avatar
bbaker
Posts: 777
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:47 pm
First and Last Name: Bryan Baker
Location: Evansville IN

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by bbaker »

Glad to see my ole buddy Dave Kamp is still kicking! :)
Cub Cadet, John Deere, New Holland, bobcat, Chevrolet, and Harley Davidson just a few brands I'm proud to own.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

So it was busy in the office all last night, didn't get much done, but a little anyway...
Attachments
Left side, with bracket extended and temporarily in place for hemm-and-haw...
Left side, with bracket extended and temporarily in place for hemm-and-haw...
Left reduced.jpg (82.71 KiB) Viewed 11068 times
And the right side in place...
And the right side in place...
RightReduced.jpg (87.17 KiB) Viewed 11068 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

I've decided that this bracket really doesn't need to be removed ever... and it would be best, considering it's load, to have it attached in such a way that it cannot shift... so I'm going to drill it, clean the frame beneath, clamp and rosette weld it in several places, then fillet weld around the perimeter, and trim off the remaining lip areas near the engine. They no longer serve any purpose but to block access to the areas around the engine, so I'll make it look tidy and keep it from causing hand-obstruction issues during servicing.

This plate is plenty thick enough to take over all the stresses that the IHCC frame used to see. ;)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Today, I picked up a MOOG kit to install into the engine cradle mount system. Somewhere along the way, one of my mounts came unbolted, and plain old fell out, and I never found it again... so it'll go back in with new. After seeing them, these new ones they're shaped differently, and they're harder plastic. That means any flex in the chassis will be more heavily loaded upon the cradle, rather than allowing it room to modulate. What I'll probably do, is use two softer mounts in the front, and the harder ones in rear, and save the remainders for some other day and need.

To do the welding, I'd rather do it in the comfort of my company shop, for two reasons... first is, my garage workshop area is still a friggin' mess (long story that includes neck surgery a couple years ago, and all the things I had to do just to survive amidst the pain and physical degradation that led up to it), and furthermore, my garage workspace ventilation is very limited during the winter months, so welding turns it very cloudy and dirty this time of year... whereas the company shop has excellent ventilation in place, lots of room to back in a trailer, etc.,

And since I"m gonna be doing that welding, I'm also going to improve the Mutt's back-end a bit... fit it up with a better counterweight setup, with battery mount and fuel tank, etc., and a few other enhancements that I dreamt up over the years. So tomorrow, I'll prep it a bit for this next round, and I'll hafta go borrow dad's little trailer for easier transport and work-access...

Did I mention that the MUD season came early? I think y'all got it too, it's exceptionally fun here- it's about two inches deep, and there's ice under it... happy-happy joy-joy... but at least while it was still well-froze on top, I got into the garden with the commercial ZTR and cut down all of last year's debris, and pruned my grapes!
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so it's Wednesday... middle of a week-long rotation of night-phone/on-call duty, which this time-of-year, can be really stressful at times. Today, I managed to get out of the office by 10:30, and it's surprisingly quiet (knock knock) so I had the Mutt on trailer, pulled into the company shop for some midnight sport-welding. I'm dirty, tired, need a shower and bed, and hope the phone don't ring, so I'll save the explanation and let the pictures be my thousands of words. If you have questions, ask away:
Attachments
KIMG0099.jpg
KIMG0099.jpg (113.39 KiB) Viewed 11063 times
KIMG0104.jpg
KIMG0104.jpg (107.92 KiB) Viewed 11063 times
KIMG0107.jpg
KIMG0107.jpg (80.5 KiB) Viewed 11063 times
KIMG0108.jpg
KIMG0108.jpg (65.05 KiB) Viewed 11063 times
KIMG0109.jpg
KIMG0109.jpg (87.5 KiB) Viewed 11063 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Welding... hot glue... squirt-gun of the gods...
Attachments
KIMG0110.jpg
KIMG0110.jpg (94.9 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
KIMG0115.jpg
KIMG0115.jpg (118.64 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
KIMG0116.jpg
KIMG0116.jpg (110.62 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
KIMG0118.jpg
KIMG0118.jpg (112.68 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
KIMG0119.jpg
KIMG0119.jpg (86.91 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Last two for tonight... Shower TIme!
Attachments
KIMG0121.jpg
KIMG0121.jpg (101.42 KiB) Viewed 11078 times
KIMG0122.jpg
KIMG0122.jpg (111.24 KiB) Viewed 11078 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

And this morning...
Attachments
Some paint... not beautiful, but it's yellow.  When this horse appears in a parade, it will be shoveling manure, not getting it's hair brushed.
Some paint... not beautiful, but it's yellow. When this horse appears in a parade, it will be shoveling manure, not getting it's hair brushed.
KIMG0123.jpg (96.09 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Notice that I've trimmed away the remaining lip.  That reinforcement plate makes it unnecessary... but doing so really opened up hand clearance to the area around the block.
Notice that I've trimmed away the remaining lip. That reinforcement plate makes it unnecessary... but doing so really opened up hand clearance to the area around the block.
KIMG0124.jpg (93.03 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Yeah, it's ugly... what I did, was torch a hole through frame, then through plate... ground it, then welded a bit, basically to make it so that water can't get 'tween the plate and frame here... but didn't take the die grinder to clean it up- I'll do that later... mebbie...
Yeah, it's ugly... what I did, was torch a hole through frame, then through plate... ground it, then welded a bit, basically to make it so that water can't get 'tween the plate and frame here... but didn't take the die grinder to clean it up- I'll do that later... mebbie...
KIMG0126.jpg (51.16 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Look at that space!
Look at that space!
KIMG0130.jpg (95.11 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
And around the starter too.  I removed the frankenstein bolt nuts from the backside, as well as all the other fasteners, so that there was nothing to snag or abrade my hydraulic lines or battery cable.
And around the starter too. I removed the frankenstein bolt nuts from the backside, as well as all the other fasteners, so that there was nothing to snag or abrade my hydraulic lines or battery cable.
KIMG0131.jpg (70.8 KiB) Viewed 11070 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

And a few more...
Attachments
Starting reassembly, I pulled off the pedestal to fix some cracking going on down at the bottom... excellent opportunity to look at other stuff...
Starting reassembly, I pulled off the pedestal to fix some cracking going on down at the bottom... excellent opportunity to look at other stuff...
KIMG0132.jpg (107.82 KiB) Viewed 11069 times
Another look at this snazzy driveline
Another look at this snazzy driveline
KIMG0135.jpg (91.45 KiB) Viewed 11069 times
KIMG0141.jpg
KIMG0141.jpg (104.38 KiB) Viewed 11069 times
Shroud clearance is a little close, but not tight, nor snug.  Depends on how much the motor mount flex causes... I'm sure it'll give me a sign...
Shroud clearance is a little close, but not tight, nor snug. Depends on how much the motor mount flex causes... I'm sure it'll give me a sign...
KIMG0142.jpg (76.25 KiB) Viewed 11069 times
But I can live with this... totally...
But I can live with this... totally...
KIMG0143.jpg (76.26 KiB) Viewed 11069 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

User avatar
BigMike
Posts: 1351
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:45 pm
First and Last Name: Mike Andrews
Location: Niles,Michigan

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by BigMike »

Dave, did you leave the left plate long for a reason?

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Have I overwhelmed your eyes yet? :shock:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

BigMike wrote:Dave, did you leave the left plate long for a reason?
I left and right the left and right plate wrong for a long reason! :lol:

Yes, I left them long because I have a possible future use for them up there, but won't do anything with them 'till after I get the loader back on, and do some experimentation and measurement.

My office shift is over... I'm on-call now, so heading to the shop to exercise my 4.5" grinding techniques... then home, to do more late-night assemblywork...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader-Mutt Lung Transplant

Post by DaveKamp »

Last Night's progress...
Attachments
The pedestal had typical crack problems at the bottom... so I took it off...
The pedestal had typical crack problems at the bottom... so I took it off...
KIMG0147.jpg (88.61 KiB) Viewed 11045 times
So the first part offset in this bracket is done... test fit it later...
So the first part offset in this bracket is done... test fit it later...
KIMG0148.jpg (56.08 KiB) Viewed 11045 times
Grinding on the pump bracket...  I'm going with a thinner plate to mount the pump, because the pump shaft is only-so-long, and I need to keep the sheave close to keep the overhanging load at a minimum.  The engine side is over twice as thick, so it's stiff!
Grinding on the pump bracket... I'm going with a thinner plate to mount the pump, because the pump shaft is only-so-long, and I need to keep the sheave close to keep the overhanging load at a minimum. The engine side is over twice as thick, so it's stiff!
KIMG0149.jpg (58.41 KiB) Viewed 11045 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

Post Reply