109 revival oil leak

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cwcub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue May 17, 2016 7:24 pm
First and Last Name: Corey Wilder
Location: Oroville, Washington

109 revival oil leak

Post by cwcub »

Trying to determine if I need to pull fly wheel and or pto. No oil in the blower housing. There is dampness between bearing plate and block and between pto and block but not a wet trail. I'm thinking this is an oil pan and crank vent issue. How far should I go? See pics. Pan gasket for sure
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Klapatta
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by Klapatta »

Well for starters I'll go on the record saying K series are drippy things. Very good photos. The Flywheel side does show a bit more. But even this is damp not wet, probably years worth of accumulation. I'd change the pan gasket and torque it to specification. Service of the venting system now would be a good thing too. Do not over tighten. With the engine out now is a very good time to clean out the bottom of the pan and check for bits of metal and overall visual inspection. I'd leave the crank seals as they are, save that for overhaul time, My thinking that they have years of service life left.
Some guys like to install the breather cover with the slots facing upward. The claim is the engine stays cleaner that way. This will not affect the venting action at all, the inner breather plate is the one that has an orientation, with that one the SMALL vent hole must be facing downward. One other place that likes to drip is the govern shaft right next to the breather. They drip with brand new parts. Drippy things that they are.

Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by Klapatta »

As a side note I painted my dipstick today :lol:
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dripdripdrip :D

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dag1450
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
Location: Chalfont, Pa

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by dag1450 »

Never saw a dipstick like that....I mean it looks good and all....but Where's the finger loop thing? Also....I have seen some with like a cover plate down there....then the stick up near the top or something different than down by the frame? Someone please tell me what is right....lol
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

cwcub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue May 17, 2016 7:24 pm
First and Last Name: Corey Wilder
Location: Oroville, Washington

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by cwcub »

Thanks for the reply klapatta. I went ahead and pulled fly wheel, the shaft seal is bone dry. I'm guessing the bearing plate gasket is a bit weepy, but like you say it looks like years of accumulation. Will the bearing plate just pull off after removing four bolts or is the bearing press fit to crank? The pan had sludge but no shavings. The oil was black as night. The pan has issues. Somebody drilled the plug out to some ginormous size and it was leaking I think a copper washer will fix that. The threads in the pan to frame mounts are pretty rough. I ran a tap in them but they're still pretty choppy. Heli coil? Head needs leveled I will be ordering a full gasket set and put her back together. Is there an iron pan available for these k241
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cwcub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue May 17, 2016 7:24 pm
First and Last Name: Corey Wilder
Location: Oroville, Washington

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by cwcub »

Also is there suppose to be a roll pin in the drive shaft to engine coupler? This just had a bolt poked through no nut. The hole in drive shaft is probably wallard out
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Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by Klapatta »

Oh boy I did it that time.Two styles I'm aware of. Guessing you mean this type.
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I'm pretty sure the pull ring style came along later. Ring on stick and fill tube extension press fitted into cam cover, oil much easier to pour because throat is much larger and deeper. This is the far more common of the two from what I have seen. Pretty sure they were used on all the later machines. 1x8,9 and up? But I have seen 1x6,7s with them too. Sticks do not interchange and differ in length as well.

Unless you intend to rebuild the engine I'd leave the bearing plate alone. Make sure the plate is torqued to spec is all I'd do.
The cast iron oil pan is the better of the two styles in my opinion but both the aluminum and iron pan will respond well to heli coil.
If it is in fact aluminum with the drain plug muckeld up the time to exchange it out is now. Do it once do it right. Replacement cast pans are easy to find but be aware there are two sizes one flat one deep dish. Get the right one. Posting an ad over in the wanted section or contacting a forum listed supplier will yield quick results. Good luck.

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dag1450
Posts: 2356
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
Location: Chalfont, Pa

Re: 109 revival oil leak

Post by dag1450 »

Thanks Ken. I feel better now that u explained.... :lol:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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