Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Here is where we can talk about all things Cub and then some. Please follow the golden rule and respect others.
This is a free forum and all pictures posted here are for public consumption. They are free to be used as long as you are not using them in a for-profit manner. Also, any pictures subject to copyright or permissions will be removed.
Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

I see what you are saying, unfortuneatly for me my tractors history is unknown, but from the looks of it I would say it has not been used all its life, I would guess it was repainted thoroughly, but very poorly maybe 10 or more years ago and has seen little use after that, it was then disassembled by the previous owner and the engine/covers repainted nicely in the wrong yellow, so this is the mess that I now take over. The frame is covered in spots of rust bubbling up through the paint and the sheet metal fenders have runs and rust coming through in spots. Serious rust problems exist with the cubby hole under the seat which is just brown, but not rusted through and from the underside where the layers of sheet metal are sandwiched together between the fenders and central section is has started to open out from rust. How do you guys treat this, drill out the welds, sand blast and reweld or just clean out best as you can, treat the rust and fill with paint?

Sorry for the long description, I will get a photo or two, but my tractor does not have that honest weathered/used look from years of work, but more a mix of nasty repaints with brushes!! I really enjoy bodywork/painting as it makes such an impact, when it gets finished I will need to try to source the bonnet/dash decals to finish it off.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Just been having a look at the clutch, first obvious thing is the friction plate has a chunk missing by one of the drive pins, I am also missing the anti rattle? Springs, and I suspect the throw out bearing has had it, hopefully the release lever is not too damaged from the release bearing.

If anyone has any serviceable clutch parts they don't mind selling I am interested, only thing is I am in the UK so guess it involves a trip to the post office for you, but it would really help me out as I am unable tosource these in the UK.

Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Klapatta »

Well here's my experiences with these units.
Firstly a new disc is needed. The assembly needs to be taken apart using a compression tool or a lathe.
Then the discs have most likely need to be resurfaced.
The throwout bearing thing is next on the list. A Cub Cadet specific item, and expensive.
Then you discover the drive shaft and spirol pins are worn.
After that you may find that the clutch fork has all kinds of wear.
My point is that for you given your location it may be best to go with the assembly you showed in earlier section of this thread.
It could well be the shortest and fastest way out of the dilemma. They may even be able to provide a complete assembly with a spring that is much closer to the factory setting. The anti rattle springs are not absolutely necessary, another Cub specific part. But the may have that as well.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Maybe best to hold off on the clutch, see if I can get it functioning well enough to test the gearbox etc properly.

Klapatta - in my other thread about the gearbox input shaft bearings, which I thought seemed noisey, although I was spining the driveshaft with a relatively quite electric drill, you mention checking the lateral play, is this simply a case of holding the driveshaft and trying to pull/push it back and forth (clutch is all free to move as clutch pivot not attached) or does driveshaft etc need removing so I can pull directly on the input shaft? When I checked for any freeplay on the driveshaft I could not feel any movement or am I looking for very minimal play? Thankyou for all your help with my many questions.

Ha ha, silly me just looked up lateral, it means up/down, side to side? Does the driveahaft need removing to check for this or if there is play on driveshaft I know further checking is required to see if its between driveshaft and input shaft or the input shaft bearings?

Edit - Just had a look and I can feel no lateral movement, there is a very small in/out movement of the shaft, maybe 1mm, not really visible although it could be seen and felt, it sound and felt like the input shaft moving back and forth in the box rather than play on the coupler.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

I am having to Mai order some spirol pins as don't know where to get them locally, does anyone know what size the commonly needed ones are, for example spindle/steering arm, front axle bush pins, driveshaft and any other commonly needed ones when disassembling and rebuilding a 106?

Are the steering spindle one 3/16" x 1"1/4 parts manual says 5/16" if I read it correctly?

Pressure plate to driveshaft pin 1/4 x 1"1/8 ? I cant find the pin size for the rear of the driveshaft?

Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Klapatta »

They are easy to trim to any size using a cutoff wheel. 1 1/2" would cover everything you may need to replace. 1/4" dia. is. is the norm but the steering knuckle uses 5/ I6". I prefer the stainless steel type myself.
93740a426l.gif
93740a426l.gif (27.61 KiB) Viewed 7054 times
With the steering knuckle its best to convert over to a taper roll pin. But you will need to procure a taper pin reamer. Any good machine shop would have one. The tighter you pound it in the tighter it gets, I did all of mine like that 10-12 years ago, never had a bit of trouble since.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Thanks, are the front axle pivot pins 1/4" diameter as well? I saw the stainless ones, are there any drawbacks?

I read about the tapered reamer and pin solution,will probably try a spirol pin and when the tractor is up together may look into I futher.

I have been working on the fender panel, I though although rusty the cubby hole base under the seat was not rusted through, but since sand blasting I have a nice selection of small holes, I have also drilled the welds and opened out the seams at the sides which had rusted and expanded, hopefully weld them back up tomorrow and I think for now rather than cutting out the base I will just clean it all up and fill the holes as it is still structurally sound and this will never be a show winner!!

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

WP_20171020_13_52_01_Pro.jpg
WP_20171020_13_52_01_Pro.jpg (3.47 MiB) Viewed 7042 times
Whoever painted my 106 must have heard the saying "you can't polish a t@rd", so they painted it instead!!!, this is what greeted me after a warm with a blow torch and a sharp scraper.

User avatar
dag1450
Posts: 2356
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
Location: Chalfont, Pa

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by dag1450 »

I would generally say.... looking good. But....it really looks like a mess. :lol:
In an earlier post u said u blasted....r going to blast the hood? What type of setup do u have.... cabinet? Or a bucket outside? I really like blasting...it gives so much bang for your buck! Pics please. Keep up the good work!
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

It sure does look awful, I like sand blasting aswell, can make metal look almost new as well as giving a great key for primer. I just have a homemade setup from an old gas bottle, it works really well except I could do with a bigger compressor, which is why I got off what paint would come off with scraper easily first.

The wooden broom handle is a recent revision to try to stop getting a face full of sand.
Attachments
NewImage_400_711_90.jpg
NewImage_400_711_90.jpg (126.73 KiB) Viewed 7031 times

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Progress on my project hasn't stopped, just slowed as I am on the lookout for an engine, but also need the spare cash to buy one.

The other day I pit the metal clutch plate (the ones either side of friction disk) this is the one closest to the engine, in the lathe to reface it as it was quite heavily rusted, I the noticed the the disk part was not flat across its face, is this part of the design or has mine had it? I did see on one site it said to reface at a slight angle.

Also does anyone know what thickness the disk is new, or what the minimum useable thickness is?

Thanks

Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Klapatta »

Nice to see you checking in Ian and hope progress is coming along. I don't think there's any need for an angle on the plate, a straight across facing turn and it should be just fine. I like to turn them on an expansion mandrel as that ensures true position relationship to the bore. I can't say for sure how I know this but I think around .170 is min. thickness for them, thinner than that it starts becoming weak. Also if I'm not mistaken when new they are about .190 thick.
Hope this helps.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Thanks, for reply, it does help, I do not have an expanding mandrel, although I have turned a steel rod down to size to fit the bore as I found when I put the part in the lathe it did not seem very true.

Rmowl
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:44 pm
First and Last Name: Rick Mowl Jr
Location: Keedysville, MD

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Rmowl »

yup, I like to keep them in their work clothes when possible and shine them up as much as possible through a wet sanding/ buffing. Definitely have to take that one down. I have way more than I care to mention in restoring my daughters 126. Nice job so far
too many IH cub cadets

Klapatta
Posts: 1352
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Klapatta »

If I lost anyone with that one here is what we are talking about.
th.jpg
th.jpg (7.13 KiB) Viewed 7003 times
This particular one is made by a company named Dunham.
It resolves the face runout issue from at the bore that is being discussed. It is set to a light preload condition and then turned to the desired size. This one has the 5C taper right on it which is what we generally use. They come in straight shank as well. At work we use them as fixtures and go through hundreds of them a year on a production basis. They are highly concentric and square to the bore if turned to final finish size properly.
Of course, a close fitting stub shaft turned to desired size with a cap screw and washer as a retainer will accomplish the same thing.
Keeping in mind only the outer third of the disc plate actually does anything in the first place, the rest is all air.

Ianb
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:31 am
First and Last Name: Ian Buckwell
Location: Lymington, Hampshire

Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain

Post by Ianb »

Nice, its is kind of a reverse collet chuck? Out of interest what kind of lathe do you use? Thanks

Post Reply