Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
I have just been looking at my tractor and the steering column/tower metal work is going to have to come off to attend to the metal that the clutch arm hangar attaches, it is also torn slightly in the corner. Am I correct in thinking once the steering box/column etc is removed the assembly will come off? Is the clutch arm hanger bracket attached to this top assembly? Does it have to be slid forward to remove? I will get a picture to show what I mean.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Your steering tower is in the early stages of failure. One in good condition for your series machine would look like this
Here is one example of a total clutch mount bracket failure. In the dead of Winter with work to be done I may add.
Your best approach would be to remove the tower for repair. The steering wheel would be removed first. This can be quite difficult. There are both methods and pulling tools for this. I'd reinstall the tower base mounting bolts first however before attempting that. Now would be the time to check the overall condition of the steering box as well. There is a provision for making backlash adjustment adjustment on it. Once the wheel is off the next step would be to disconnect the clutch fork by removing the cross pin at the pivot arm. With wiring and hand controls disconnected the tower can then be lifted straight up off the machine. A fabrication repair of the unit then can be made at your discression. Here is one version of a proper dash tower repair that I liked very much, not of my work or machine, notice the way it has been reinforced with angle iron and weld, of course your method of choice is up to you.
To address such a repair in the correct sequence the steering wheel must first come off. To get more info regarding that it's probably best to start another thread, I'd think you would get more input that way.-
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Thankyou, for your reply, luckily I have removed the steering wheel, I used a puller and a hammer, a combination of repeatedly shocking it and tightening the puller got it off. I did wonder about starting a new thread but was hesitant to as half of the threads on the forums 1st page would have been started by me.
Is it necessary/easiest to remove steering box/column to remove the sheet metal structure that surrounds it or can I leave it in place?
Is it necessary/easiest to remove steering box/column to remove the sheet metal structure that surrounds it or can I leave it in place?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Well posting three threads hardly qualifies as running half of the first page and your asking perfectly reasonable questions.
Many of which I may point out have been answered here before. If you choose not to start a new thread you can do research on your own using the search option located near the upper right hand corner of the home page. For example, you may type in steering wheel removal and any previous threads associated with the topic will be brought up. Given that as an example there's even a video provided on the subject.
It's not necessary to remove the steering box to disconnect the tower assembly once the wheel is off. But consider coating oil on the steering tube to assist sliding the tower upward over the locating gromet. Once the tower is removed it would be the perfect time to take a service look at the steering box as access would be much improved. It is held in place with two 3/8" bolts to the frame, that and disconnecting the drag link is all else that is necessary for removal. It will have to come out from the bottom. This is the perfect opportunity to clean, adjust, and lubricate the unit. There should be a grease fitting on the case and it uses any standard high quality chassis lube. Don't be shy with pumping it up with plenty of grease as that will purge out all the old stuff.
If there was any damage to the threaded shaft end from the wheel removal that thread is a 5/8-18 if I recall correctly and it can be best chased while up on the work bench.
Many of which I may point out have been answered here before. If you choose not to start a new thread you can do research on your own using the search option located near the upper right hand corner of the home page. For example, you may type in steering wheel removal and any previous threads associated with the topic will be brought up. Given that as an example there's even a video provided on the subject.
It's not necessary to remove the steering box to disconnect the tower assembly once the wheel is off. But consider coating oil on the steering tube to assist sliding the tower upward over the locating gromet. Once the tower is removed it would be the perfect time to take a service look at the steering box as access would be much improved. It is held in place with two 3/8" bolts to the frame, that and disconnecting the drag link is all else that is necessary for removal. It will have to come out from the bottom. This is the perfect opportunity to clean, adjust, and lubricate the unit. There should be a grease fitting on the case and it uses any standard high quality chassis lube. Don't be shy with pumping it up with plenty of grease as that will purge out all the old stuff.
If there was any damage to the threaded shaft end from the wheel removal that thread is a 5/8-18 if I recall correctly and it can be best chased while up on the work bench.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Thanks once again.for.the help. Two bolts, it may as well come out and be checked over/adjusted to remove as much play as possible. It will need cleaning and repainting anyway at some point.
I will try searching the site before posting, with the damaged clutch arm hanger I tried searching (not specifically this site) but could find nothing, I think sometimes it is knowing the correct term, like in my previous post I couldn't for the life of me think that the metal work around the column was called a tower!! Guess it all comes with familiarity and time with garden tractors.
I have just been reading of one owner on here adding a front wheel bearing to the top of the steering tube, is this only possible if a replacement tube is fitted?
Do the steering column towers tear due to the load from the clutch arm mounting? In the picture you posted of the reinforced one along with the angle down each side it looks as though it has been plated across the front where the clutch arm mounts, I assume this section can only be made of flat plate and not have any real depth backwards otherwise the tower could not be lifted on/off? Or could angle be used across the front to strengthen the clutch arm mount ? With the top of the angle sliding below the sheet metal the tower sits on? Sorry if that didn't make sense, guess I will find out when I remove the tower.
I will try searching the site before posting, with the damaged clutch arm hanger I tried searching (not specifically this site) but could find nothing, I think sometimes it is knowing the correct term, like in my previous post I couldn't for the life of me think that the metal work around the column was called a tower!! Guess it all comes with familiarity and time with garden tractors.
I have just been reading of one owner on here adding a front wheel bearing to the top of the steering tube, is this only possible if a replacement tube is fitted?
Do the steering column towers tear due to the load from the clutch arm mounting? In the picture you posted of the reinforced one along with the angle down each side it looks as though it has been plated across the front where the clutch arm mounts, I assume this section can only be made of flat plate and not have any real depth backwards otherwise the tower could not be lifted on/off? Or could angle be used across the front to strengthen the clutch arm mount ? With the top of the angle sliding below the sheet metal the tower sits on? Sorry if that didn't make sense, guess I will find out when I remove the tower.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Ian - Post away, it's all good! Nobody here is going to jump on you for "posting excessively"!
Nice to follow someone doing quality work. Carry on!
Nice to follow someone doing quality work. Carry on!
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
OK, thanks thats good to know.
KLapatta, I have removed the steering tower and column, made much easier with your advice, I have also removed the rear fender panel enabling viewing/access of the transmission.
Is there anyway of removing the handle/ chrome tube section of the deck lift lever whilst fitted to the tractor?
I have found instructions here, http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm, about the adjustment/repairs to the steering box, are these the best way to adjust them? I also read about removing play from the tie rod end by hammering them tigbter, I tried this on one and it has improved or somewhat, is this a long term fix or is it just best to replace them? I wouldn't say mine are badly worn but with the steering all the little bits of play everywhere seem to add up.
KLapatta, I have removed the steering tower and column, made much easier with your advice, I have also removed the rear fender panel enabling viewing/access of the transmission.
Is there anyway of removing the handle/ chrome tube section of the deck lift lever whilst fitted to the tractor?
I have found instructions here, http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm, about the adjustment/repairs to the steering box, are these the best way to adjust them? I also read about removing play from the tie rod end by hammering them tigbter, I tried this on one and it has improved or somewhat, is this a long term fix or is it just best to replace them? I wouldn't say mine are badly worn but with the steering all the little bits of play everywhere seem to add up.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Looks like a great write up! Replace the ball joints $7 each here, not sure about your side of the pond. 5/16-24 is the threadsize. I get mine from McMaster Carr. The manual lift is part of the rock shaft that runs under the foot rest. Only way to really service it is to take off the foot rests and the " ratchet ". The whole assembly will come out. When I restored my 105 I had the top half cromed after sand blasting but before paint of the bottom.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Are they 5/16-24, just saw on the garden tractor tips they were shown as 3/8-24 UNF? Or os one the threaded ball that the securing nut fits and the other the threaded end used to adjust track?
For the track/tie rod ends do most fit thee original style or something similar to these?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... AFR-5S.axd
I suppose the originals have the rubber boot to protect from wet and grit?
Do I need left or right handed thread or both?
For the track/tie rod ends do most fit thee original style or something similar to these?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... AFR-5S.axd
I suppose the originals have the rubber boot to protect from wet and grit?
Do I need left or right handed thread or both?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Some folks like to use these, they cost more than the stock ones and require a drop of oil once in a while to stay free.
But they do not wear out.
But they do not wear out.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Thanks, I have seen similar, I will look for a supplier here, hopefully be able to find them as most seem to be metric here.
Do you know if they need to be left or right hand thread?
Do you know if they need to be left or right hand thread?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Sorry your right that was a typo on my part! 3/8-24 is correct
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
I took this steering box apart this morning, I was very careful not to drop any ball bearings, there was only 15 in there and also the top bearings appeared to have never had grease on?? Luckily the steering cam follower appears to have very minimal wear/flatspots, so going to find another ball bearing, wash all the parts and hopefully get it back together working a bit easier and smoother.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
The part Ken suggested is also called a heim joint.
You may be able to find them locally.
You may be able to find them locally.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Has anyone had any luck making a new 'felt seal' for the steering box? If so what did you use, mine is a bit mishaped and doesn't sit in the retainer piece completely, although it looks to have been like it for a long time as it has paint on the edge that sticks out of the retainer.
Is the foam seal glued to the retainer piece, or was mine just stuck with time/grease?
Is the foam seal glued to the retainer piece, or was mine just stuck with time/grease?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Packing foam works good. No glue just years of compression
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Cool, I put by some I had just incase.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
I sand blasted my steering box case and parts yesterday to remove all the old paint and rust, I have just given them two coats of epoxy primer to protect them, I still need to choose a close match yellow paint and purchase some, I cant use correct Cub Cadet paint as I don't know where to get it in the UK and if I did I doubt it would be cheap, so instead I intend to use PPG automotive single stage 2K.
Mods - Please let me know if it is not suitable for me to update this thread in this forum with my progress of bringing my tractor back to health.
Has anyone fitted or info on splitting the clutch brake and putting a brake pedal on the right hand side, I have read of people doing it but not seen any detailed photos.Mods - Please let me know if it is not suitable for me to update this thread in this forum with my progress of bringing my tractor back to health.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Post away! It might be easier for you in one thread.
As for paint, ppg makes a cub yellow, look in the cub FAQ section on this forum. Many of the codes here have gone NLA when the paint companies have cleaned up to make the products they sell "greener". Let us know what you find.
As for paint, ppg makes a cub yellow, look in the cub FAQ section on this forum. Many of the codes here have gone NLA when the paint companies have cleaned up to make the products they sell "greener". Let us know what you find.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
Thanks for reminding me, I have seen a PPG code, I will have to phone paint supplier and see if it means anything to them, not sure if all codes work worldwide, just need to check my chassis number against the ranges.
One other thing I need to ask, are the wheels painted the same color as the hood etc. Or are they another white?
JMotuzick - are you able to retitle my thread to make it more appropriate? It has kind of grown from just a hood bracket question. I assume this forum is the most suitable one for on going projects?
Looks like mine is 935 white and 483B yellow, seems like there is a PPG code for the white, but not the yellow?
One other thing I need to ask, are the wheels painted the same color as the hood etc. Or are they another white?
JMotuzick - are you able to retitle my thread to make it more appropriate? It has kind of grown from just a hood bracket question. I assume this forum is the most suitable one for on going projects?
Looks like mine is 935 white and 483B yellow, seems like there is a PPG code for the white, but not the yellow?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
I'll see what I can do to up date the title.
On The yellow the B at the end means lead free, same color. Later much later MTD changed the color.
935 is the later white 902 is for the early s/n range.
Here are my 126/169/105 with DuPont paint the 169 is 935 126/105 are 902. The 126/169 yellow was painted at the same time same gun/booth etc. Forum modorator Dave C painted the 105 yellow 3 years prior. 105 is mixed in and can't really be seen.
On The yellow the B at the end means lead free, same color. Later much later MTD changed the color.
935 is the later white 902 is for the early s/n range.
Here are my 126/169/105 with DuPont paint the 169 is 935 126/105 are 902. The 126/169 yellow was painted at the same time same gun/booth etc. Forum modorator Dave C painted the 105 yellow 3 years prior. 105 is mixed in and can't really be seen.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Hood Bracket
105
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
Thankyou for the title change, and taking the time posting the photos up, you certainly have a lot of immaculate Cubs. I will have to look at the pictures on a computer as on my phone it is very hard to see any real difference in the yellow color.
Ref the title, not sure its a restoration, I have read some people have quite specific opinions on what a restoration is or isnt maybe 'tidy up' is more appropriate!!!
Ref the title, not sure its a restoration, I have read some people have quite specific opinions on what a restoration is or isnt maybe 'tidy up' is more appropriate!!!
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
Are the steering box tubes supposed to be straight?
I see mine has a dent in the tube and just assumed it was from the factory for clearance, but now I look at it closer and the tube has a very slight bend in it, if its not meant to be like this I guess the dent weakened it and it has bent in this place with someone pulling or pushing on it too hard.
I see mine has a dent in the tube and just assumed it was from the factory for clearance, but now I look at it closer and the tube has a very slight bend in it, if its not meant to be like this I guess the dent weakened it and it has bent in this place with someone pulling or pushing on it too hard.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
I agree with you on that.I have read some people have quite specific opinions on what a restoration is or isnt
That's why I just "refurbish" the ones I've had. I've never even completely repainted one.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
The tube should be straight, emt works as a
Great replacement 1 1/4 I believe is the correct size. I'm not sure if you can find that over there!?
Great replacement 1 1/4 I believe is the correct size. I'm not sure if you can find that over there!?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
I have never seen EMT tubing, but 1-1/4" steel tube in various wall thickness is readily available. I refitted the shaft and bearings and the slight bend does not seem to cause any binding/tight spots, and I am not worried about the dent so I will leave with it as long as it doesn't cause any issues when in use.
When adjusting the vertical play in the shaft, is it adjusted so there is the minimum/no play, but ensuring it still rotates smoothly and easily? If the hole for the split pin doesn't line up with the end cap slots, I figure it is best to back it off slightly rather than over tighten?
When adjusting the vertical play in the shaft, is it adjusted so there is the minimum/no play, but ensuring it still rotates smoothly and easily? If the hole for the split pin doesn't line up with the end cap slots, I figure it is best to back it off slightly rather than over tighten?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
If the shaft is not binding I'd leave it as it is. What really matters is that the tube is tight inside the housing. Loose or tight on the steering sector is a good question. I'm of the opinion that those housings tend to stretch a bit after overhaul. Of course stupid tight is no good. The later style caps had the eight position slots for the cotter pin.
I happen to run with the if it works keep things as they are club. I also have never bothered with a total respray on a Cub Cadet, and paint only items that require an overhaul or severe rust protection. Such said I greatly admire the 100 point restoration machines and Joe does some wonderful work.
I'm getting around to start showing again late in the season as it is but I have been sidelined over the Summer due to a back injury and it's nice to be getting more mobile again. Will be heading to the Ludlow, Vt. show this weekend. The weather is going to be perfect and I'm camping out for the night.
Today, I uncovered my homemade- she has been parked up on the trailer for a year. Draining the gas, picking out the acorns and all that. The spit and polish will come later this week. Often times folks will ask my why don't you restore it? My standard reply is that's the way it's been since 1974, why change it now? It's history. And that's the way it's going to stay. It's all a matter of choice afterall.
I happen to run with the if it works keep things as they are club. I also have never bothered with a total respray on a Cub Cadet, and paint only items that require an overhaul or severe rust protection. Such said I greatly admire the 100 point restoration machines and Joe does some wonderful work.
I'm getting around to start showing again late in the season as it is but I have been sidelined over the Summer due to a back injury and it's nice to be getting more mobile again. Will be heading to the Ludlow, Vt. show this weekend. The weather is going to be perfect and I'm camping out for the night.
Today, I uncovered my homemade- she has been parked up on the trailer for a year. Draining the gas, picking out the acorns and all that. The spit and polish will come later this week. Often times folks will ask my why don't you restore it? My standard reply is that's the way it's been since 1974, why change it now? It's history. And that's the way it's going to stay. It's all a matter of choice afterall.
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
That is brilliant, what engine does it have? Is the large cast orange casing a front pto or is it just the plow mounting? How long did it take to make?
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Re: Cub Cadet 106 Restoration in Great Britain
Well, it depends upon what you like. I was just using that as an example. And veering off topic.
For me there's just something about a well worn machine that gives it character.
Notice the way the paint is scrubbed off here, it takes years to get that way. I call it patina.
For me there's just something about a well worn machine that gives it character.
Notice the way the paint is scrubbed off here, it takes years to get that way. I call it patina.