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Researched this to no end, spent too much time on it. Swapped the old series I in it for a series II. It would run with the series I. Now with the new engine, I can only get it to crank. Verified 12 volts at coil, cleaned points, then new points plus wipe down, along with new condenser, new plugs and plug wires. My test light does not flash when touching coil when cranking. The 'regulator' on the old engine I even swapped over. I am getting fuel just no spark. Any help would be appreciated.

Did you verify the points are actually opening, maybe adjustment or bad points plunger/rod? Is it the same coil as the other engine? Is the negative side of the coil going on and off with the test light while cranking? Seems about the only things it could be that I can think of. Except something grounding out the coil I guess but I never hear of that.

Yes, points are opening. I have used the coil that came with engine and the one that I know works, a known good condenser, new plugs and wires. I'm sure it's something obvious just really stumping me, love to get this girl running

Without being there hard to say. Sounds like you covered the bases. With the points cover off, turn the engine and see if it's sparking at the points. I guess it could be grounding out if the wire to the points was touching the cover or something.
Have you put the test light to the negative side of the coil and insured it's opening and closing the circuit as you turn the motor over? That'll rule out anything points related. I know you originally said it wasn't flashing in your first post. Is the test light staying on or not on at all? If it stays on touching the negative side, it's somehow some way points related

Thanks for the help in trying to diagnose this Ksanders. The light just stays on when cranking, it doesn't flash, however; the points do open and close and they are gapped correctly. I have cleaned the backside of the points and the block. Filed the points and ran a dollar bill through them. Never had this much trouble with one before. Right now the points cover is currently off

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but if power runs to the negative side of the coil then it has to be the points not grounding it, correct? Dumb question but I'm running out of ideas. Have you double checked power running through the wire from the negative side of the coil to the points? Put the test light on the post of the points where the wire attaches. Maybe there's a break inside that wire or a bad connector on either side? I feel like we have it narrowed down to around there. I've never seen this issue on one but certainly can happen.

On the negative side of the coil, the test light should be on with the points open and off when the points close. If the light stays on with the points closed, you're not getting continuity through the points. You need to do more work cleaning the points.

Ksanders and Paulf, you guys are great! Ran a dollar bill through the points several more times. With the key on saw an arc. She fired up and running like a top. Gonna change oil and hook the mule drive and deck up and see how she mows. Glad it was simple! Have a good rest of the weekend!

This is a nice one I think, I'm 3rd owner. Has all original mauals with it. Tractor and deck are in A1 condition, just rear wheels have some rust due to calcium, I'll swap them. Other than the series II I put in it needs nothing, hydro good, been maintained well, looks good next to my other IH 82 series

Is that the original paint on that thing? My 682 was a one owner with 200 something hours and NOS tiller and none of it looked that nice. It's apart to get hydraulics and I guess repainted since it's already torn down.

Yes, from what I was told it is the original paint. My 782 and 982 were one owners, the paint doesn't shine like this one but too nice to redo being that their original with dealer tags. I really like the the IH 82s, I'd have to be in a bad way to sell one of them, I can't wait to mow with it