Relief valve rebuild
- ksanders
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:56 pm
- First and Last Name: Kevin Sanders
- Location: Sellersburg, Indiana
Relief valve rebuild
The relief valve on my 782 suddenly started seeping while not running. Didn't see anything while it was running. I turned it down on the lathe and took it apart. The small oring inside is a 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/16. I tried one from my kit and one from two different parts stores. The new ones just aren't as thick as the old one. The plunger will fall out if you beat the valve on a table or something with a new oring. Is this normal? I'm sure someone here has done this. I want to ask first because you have to weld it to try it so rather get it the first time. I could put a second small oring in there to make it tighter but that's risky too. It still has to release when not running.
From the first Original to the last x82 Series... you can't beat an IH Cub Cadet!!!
- Jeff in Pa
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:06 am
- First and Last Name: Jeff Derstine
- Location: Zionsville,PA
Re: Relief valve rebuild
Maybe you need a different size O ring. What size is the groove and the bore?
You can also try http://www.mscdirect.com and http://www.mcmaster.com for O rings.
You can also try http://www.mscdirect.com and http://www.mcmaster.com for O rings.
125 & 125 with hydraulic lift
- ksanders
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:56 pm
- First and Last Name: Kevin Sanders
- Location: Sellersburg, Indiana
Re: Relief valve rebuild
Thanks to a member here and gentleman elsewhere that just did this same rebuild, it was confirmed the standard 008 oring was correct and doesn't have a lot of friction. I cleaned and reassembled and tack welded the valve back together. I ran around a while in forward and reverse, cycled the hydro lift, and shut It down. Two days later and valve is still dry on top. We'll see how it holds up. This job is much easier than everyone makes it out to be.
From the first Original to the last x82 Series... you can't beat an IH Cub Cadet!!!
- dag1450
- Posts: 2367
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
- First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
- Location: Chalfont, Pa
Re: Relief valve rebuild
What....no pics? Still sounds like a job big Mike might get stumped on. Is a lathe a must to cut old welds? What kind of welder was used ....is it just tacked or does it need to be a solid weld that if it leaks it will cause trouble.....cause I have seen some of his welds
Great job!
Great job!
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
- ksanders
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:56 pm
- First and Last Name: Kevin Sanders
- Location: Sellersburg, Indiana
Re: Relief valve rebuild
It was about 30 degrees Friday when I did this and figured pics weren't a necessity even though I considered it. You had to bring it up Dave
There's a factory crimp on the bottom that I chucked in the lathe and couldn't have taken a couple minutes to have removed. It isn't big so an angle grinder or dremel tool could probably get the job done with a steady hand. Just clean out the metal dust good while apart. I wouldn't say a lathe is essential, just darn convenient.
Rewelding I just tacked 3 spots with the mig welder on the bottom cap. Two or 4 spots would work too, I just chose 3. There's a hole in the cap so leaking shouldn't matter if it did. I'd advise against welding all the way around because heat with the orings wouldn't be good. I just did one quick "tack" in the areas and chose against the Lincoln stick welder just so I could do that one quick tack and keep heat down. An experienced welder could stick weld it easily. I can weld either way decent but only had one shot and played it safe as I'm not a professional. I cleaned it up with a hand file but looks on removal and the weld back together are not important obviously. It looked nice when done but isn't seen.
Having done it once, i'll back off on my one hour completion time claim but doing this job in two hours from disassembly to cleanup and reassembly would be reasonable.
There's a factory crimp on the bottom that I chucked in the lathe and couldn't have taken a couple minutes to have removed. It isn't big so an angle grinder or dremel tool could probably get the job done with a steady hand. Just clean out the metal dust good while apart. I wouldn't say a lathe is essential, just darn convenient.
Rewelding I just tacked 3 spots with the mig welder on the bottom cap. Two or 4 spots would work too, I just chose 3. There's a hole in the cap so leaking shouldn't matter if it did. I'd advise against welding all the way around because heat with the orings wouldn't be good. I just did one quick "tack" in the areas and chose against the Lincoln stick welder just so I could do that one quick tack and keep heat down. An experienced welder could stick weld it easily. I can weld either way decent but only had one shot and played it safe as I'm not a professional. I cleaned it up with a hand file but looks on removal and the weld back together are not important obviously. It looked nice when done but isn't seen.
Having done it once, i'll back off on my one hour completion time claim but doing this job in two hours from disassembly to cleanup and reassembly would be reasonable.
From the first Original to the last x82 Series... you can't beat an IH Cub Cadet!!!
-
- Posts: 1361
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
- First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
- Location: Rockingham VT.
Re: Relief valve rebuild
For what it may be worth, pretty sure I watched a very comprehensive video on You Tube about this some years ago.
No links to it though. It may be under Sunstrand 15U valves or something like that, I recall a parting tool used in the lathe being used and welding involved but little else.
No links to it though. It may be under Sunstrand 15U valves or something like that, I recall a parting tool used in the lathe being used and welding involved but little else.
- BigMike
- Posts: 1357
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:45 pm
- First and Last Name: Mike Andrews
- Location: Niles,Michigan
Re: Relief valve rebuild
Fixed it for ya there greasy fingersdag1450 wrote:What....no pics? Still sounds like a job big Mike might do
Great job!
- Jeff in Pa
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:06 am
- First and Last Name: Jeff Derstine
- Location: Zionsville,PA
Re: Relief valve rebuild
Want to annoy your welder friends? Send them this picBigMike wrote:Fixed it for ya there greasy fingersdag1450 wrote:What....no pics? Still sounds like a job big Mike might do
Great job!
I sent that to one of the welders where I used to work and he was offended
Last edited by Jeff in Pa on Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
125 & 125 with hydraulic lift
- dag1450
- Posts: 2367
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
- First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
- Location: Chalfont, Pa
Re: Relief valve rebuild
.....man...I guess I'm the only one not retired around hereJeff in Pa wrote:when I used to work
Yes Mike I do have greasy fingers....." It's the wood that makes it good".
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
- Jeff in Pa
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:06 am
- First and Last Name: Jeff Derstine
- Location: Zionsville,PA
Re: Relief valve rebuild
I goofed, I edited it to read "where I used to work". Still workingdag1450 wrote:.....man...I guess I'm the only one not retired around hereJeff in Pa wrote:when I used to work
Yes Mike I do have greasy fingers....." It's the wood that makes it good".
125 & 125 with hydraulic lift