Clutch pedal

[Klapatta]

Hey folks an open question. The clutch pedal on my 102 is not behaving correctly. The pedal does not return all the way back up to the top bump stop.
There's some excessive clutch play as well however I'd think that could be adjusted out.
My first suspicion was that the return spring had broken or fallen off (item 16).

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A quick check underneath and it was obviously still there intact and attached but simply not doing anything. No tension on it whatsoever.
I was thinking the roll pin to 15 sheared however the clutch would no longer work at all if that were the case? Any tips here? Thanks.

[Klapatta]

Well, whatever it is it just broke for good, the clutch pedal is all the way down now.

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A ton of snow had just slid off the roof into the driveway and I went out to push it away.
Was backing it up into it's spot for the day and then this. At least I did not have to push it.
A quick look underneath and the return spring is disconnected but intact.
Only eight more weeks of Winter anyhow

[Klapatta]

So yeah anyway how dare that 52 year old pin shear off.

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I pounded in a new one thinking that I was good to go.

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I went to hook up the clevis rods, that's when I found out the clevis was 180 out of time- now I can't get the new pin out Nice and greasy down there too.
Went back into the house after doing some serious cussin and changed outta my wet clothes.
Another noreaster heading our way Monday- the sage continues.

[dag1450]

Oh man! Well....call in that pro plow guy u talked about in the fall.....or dig out the 126. You guys r supposed to get hammered....so u would probably want the blower anyway.
This new storm sounds serious....just get that guy on the phone and enjoy watching for a change....
Good luck

[Klapatta]

Yeah Dave, I don't know about him lately. He's a good guy. I gotta think that he does not want to rip up the driveway since the big ground thaw.
One great thing about these smaller machines, there's less speed and much more precision possible along with a direct view of every little rock ridge and gulley. And I know every one well. I can tell when the front wheels are heading for trouble before getting into it. Last time he came in on Friday he got stuck going around our bend but managed to get himself out. I call that particular spot the Cub sucker. But heck, it sucked up my neighbors Subaru CrossTrek just last week too It eats oil trucks, UPS trucks, and even has gotten my Sierra once too. That's it right in the middle of the shot. Just envision a foot of packed wet snow with gobs of mud underneath.

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By now I'm well versed in how to approach that compound angle with the Cub, it's best to go at it by piece meal and never let the back wheels get into loose or hard packed snow. Back up on solid ground and have at it again. I never snow plow going up on that right side, only down. Use 1st gear, and skew the blade down to the right so it pushes away from the ditch and let gravity do it's job.

The 126 is hibernating with no attachments on it and with my foot in a brace that's about how it is going to stay till fair weather returns. We had one fluffy snow so far this season anyhow.
My bad on my part not paying attention to the orientation, a fairly easy job that self induced morphed into a nightmare. Now that I'm in dry clothes and my BP has gone down 30 points I'm planning my next move in the Morning.
First thing to do is to drive it off that sheet of ice that I parked it on without a clutch.
The second thing to do is to drive it up on to some ramps without a clutch so that I can swing that 20 ounce hammer enough to drive that sucker out and start over again. I wrecked a pretty darn nice flannel shirt under that tractor today and tomorrow I'm gonna wreck it some more.
There will be no cupcakes for me till further notice

[Tom Scott]

Ken - Try running a bottle jack up to support that shaft so your "hammer strike of anger" isn't being wasted on deflecting the shaft. That's all I can think of at the moment...

Good luck, hope it gets worked out in time.

[Klapatta]

Success. The first thing was to get the machine high enough into the air so I could swing that big old hammer marked Defiance with room to spare.

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After over a half hour of that using that hammer and an assortment of punches it became painfully obvious the pin was not moving from the direction that I had pounded it in at the start. The pin was deformed and having none of that. I decided to approach the pin from the undamaged side. This meant rotating the clutch shaft 180. I had to remove the foot rest, bend the clutch limit stop, and remove the lift arm bolts to get it to do that. I strapped it in place with large tie wraps to keep it from jumping around. With the shaft rotated I was able to have at it.

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With the mutilated pin out I was able to rotate the clevis to the correct position. I double checked orientation before starting over.
Here it is finished in all its greasy glory.

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Lesson to be learned here. Haste makes waste. Uh, NO. A frozen wet rear end makes for poor decision making.
Anyhow, I'm good to go.
Bring on the snow, cupcake.

[cholloway]

Atta boy!

[Tom Scott]

Good job Ken!

[dag1450]

That's great! I've had a couple pins almost drive me to tears.... lol.

[DirtySteve]

Good work showing that clutch pedal who is Boss!

I see your work space resembles mine. I hate having to fix anything this time of year!

[Klapatta]

I appreciate the comments, it's nice to share trials and tribulations.
By what I can see after snow cleanup today ( yes my guy showed up) things are right back to where they should be

While I keep those pins on hand it seems I'm starting to get low on replacements. So it's off to McMaster - Carr for some spares.
For what it's worth I compared the shear strength of the various types they stock.
The 1/4" heavy spirol pins are stocked in 18-8 stainless, 420 stainless, and high carbon steel.

The 18-8 pin has a shear strength of 4300 pounds
The 420 pin has a shear strength of 5500 pounds.
The high carbon steel pin has a shear strength of 7800 pounds so that is the one to order.

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I thought I'd just pass that on

[PTWannaHave]

When I need to take a roll pin out, I always ask myself if a shoulder bolt with a nylock nut is possible/better when re-assembling... I've made that swap in a few places, and have been happy when I had to unexpectedly disassemble a 2nd time... (I realize that I am contravening the shear strength specs.)