Creeper on cub 100 not working
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2018 4:37 am
- First and Last Name: Gerrie Swanepoel
- Location: Albany Western Australia
Creeper on cub 100 not working
When I bought my cub cadet 100 the creeper didn't work(10 years ago). Yesterday got time and split my tractor and removed the creeper drive. The big gear inside the housing are totally worn, the small gear that runs off the big outer gear are missing and the selector plate are missing ass well. Question, can you replace the big gear in the housing or do you need to replace the housing. Do you still get parts to repair the creeper. Thanks Gerrie.
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- Tom Scott
- Chief Moderator
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Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
TTT
Was posted in wrong sub-forum and got no love, moved it to here...
Carry on.
Was posted in wrong sub-forum and got no love, moved it to here...
Carry on.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
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2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
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- First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
- Location: Rockingham VT.
Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
Hello Gerrie and welcome. Your close up photo of the internal gear is very misleading. I fail to understand why someone packed it with grease. These units are meant to run with 30 weight oil or Hytran fluid. I think that you should very thoroughly clean the case first before evaluation. It's not possible to actually determine the condition of the teeth otherwise. From what I can make out from the other view they may well be totally intact. I'm thinking that after cleaning you may well find that the teeth are just fine.
I think that you should send the case to the parts wash tank first and re post another pic with your finding.
The internal gear is a machined part of the case housing and cannot be replaced.
I think that you should send the case to the parts wash tank first and re post another pic with your finding.
The internal gear is a machined part of the case housing and cannot be replaced.
- ksanders
- Posts: 930
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- First and Last Name: Kevin Sanders
- Location: Sellersburg, Indiana
Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
I don't know if you can buy replacement gears for that but you can buy the seals and gaskets. My guess though is you could just buy another unit for around $150 ready to bolt in and be both money and time ahead trying to rebuild a unit with missing mechanical parts inside.
From the first Original to the last x82 Series... you can't beat an IH Cub Cadet!!!
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- First and Last Name: Brian Ritter
- Location: Northampton, PA
Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
If the gears are shot buy another unit. Don't take anyone's word on the new one you buy that it won't leak. Rebuild it or take it to a reputable dealer. I had my first one rebuilt no problem since it was off my grandpa's 71. Then I bought one from a person on another forum who swore it was a non-leaker. I went and put it on and as soon as I put oil in the thing it started coming out. Well, I had to take everything apart and get it rebuilt and after that no problem.
Every spring I remove the oil from the creeper and put new stuff in it. Since this one is on my 106 and it has a snow blower on it. I do get some condensation in the creeper. I have not had any issues with that tractor since I followed this change out schedule 10 years ago.
Every spring I remove the oil from the creeper and put new stuff in it. Since this one is on my 106 and it has a snow blower on it. I do get some condensation in the creeper. I have not had any issues with that tractor since I followed this change out schedule 10 years ago.
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Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
Brian, with all due respect I am going to place a counter point. They leak regardless of whatever I have ever done.
Ten years back I installed a new out of the box the box creeper with new seals installed for good measure and it leaks, that is what they do.
It's best to maintain the oil level at all times, and running them dry is probably the single biggest reason for failure.
This is one case where I throw away the book.
The easiest way to fill them is to from the breather cap like this, and disregard that silly little plug on the side. If I over fill so what, excess will blow out the breather cap. It will anyway.
I run gear oil in mine. This stays where it belongs much better than a lighter oil. I have never had any issues doing that. After all they are nothing more than straight cut gears within and gear oil is what gears run on.
Two tips that I may offer, first shove that hose down in three to three and a half inches. Second, the breather cap is a very soft steel and it's easy to round off. I use an 11 MM wrench rather than a 7/16", it is a slightly tighter fit and will help to avoid that.
Ten years back I installed a new out of the box the box creeper with new seals installed for good measure and it leaks, that is what they do.
It's best to maintain the oil level at all times, and running them dry is probably the single biggest reason for failure.
This is one case where I throw away the book.
The easiest way to fill them is to from the breather cap like this, and disregard that silly little plug on the side. If I over fill so what, excess will blow out the breather cap. It will anyway.
I run gear oil in mine. This stays where it belongs much better than a lighter oil. I have never had any issues doing that. After all they are nothing more than straight cut gears within and gear oil is what gears run on.
Two tips that I may offer, first shove that hose down in three to three and a half inches. Second, the breather cap is a very soft steel and it's easy to round off. I use an 11 MM wrench rather than a 7/16", it is a slightly tighter fit and will help to avoid that.
- ksanders
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- First and Last Name: Kevin Sanders
- Location: Sellersburg, Indiana
Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
When I first put my creeper in it leaked. Seal and gasket was new at the time and I finally figured out what you're mentioning, it was coming from the breather and running down to look like a seal leak. I put the extension pipe on made for the deeper tunnel models and it hasn't leaked since in many years. Guess it doesn't blow out that high? I also have the extension on the handle. They stick up a couple inches on the 73 it's on but my concrete floor never has oil on it and it is easier to shift. Just a thought to avoid leaking from the breather.
I check the oil once a year but never changed it. I use hytran because I always have it here. Never considered condensation but makes sense.
I check the oil once a year but never changed it. I use hytran because I always have it here. Never considered condensation but makes sense.
From the first Original to the last x82 Series... you can't beat an IH Cub Cadet!!!
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- First and Last Name: Brian Ritter
- Location: Northampton, PA
Re: Creeper on cub 100 not working
Gerrie,
The creeper should not leak. If it does there is a major issue with the units seal(s)/gasket(s). Once you fill it per the filling instructions unless you have serious issues with the unit you will be fine. I always have water in mine due to either the change in temperature of the case or just the snow migrating in through the breather tube. Hence why I change my oil every season.
The instructions for refill state that you are to fill the oil till the oil flows from the plug port on the side of the unit. No oil, not filled enough. Once you have that you should have no problem with and oil mess from the breather. If you have a mess from the breather you filled it to high.
One sure fire way to destroy your creeper is to run it dry. What the person did with the grease, although I understand why they did this it is, I would argue like running the unit dry. Simply put the grease does not cover or replenish at the points of contact within the unit like Hy-tran would. As an engineer who has worked for SKF I can tell you that this application would not get an approval from the engineering department, lol.
When I redid my grandfather's 71 it was bad. When I drained the unit there was a little water and oil in it and lots of bearing piece like the raceway etc. He had ran the unit dry for quite sometime.
It's tough to beat a manual but, I have found that I really like my 169 with the Johnson Loader on it. I have never had an issue with anything on it. Those things are built like battleships.
Bri
The creeper should not leak. If it does there is a major issue with the units seal(s)/gasket(s). Once you fill it per the filling instructions unless you have serious issues with the unit you will be fine. I always have water in mine due to either the change in temperature of the case or just the snow migrating in through the breather tube. Hence why I change my oil every season.
The instructions for refill state that you are to fill the oil till the oil flows from the plug port on the side of the unit. No oil, not filled enough. Once you have that you should have no problem with and oil mess from the breather. If you have a mess from the breather you filled it to high.
One sure fire way to destroy your creeper is to run it dry. What the person did with the grease, although I understand why they did this it is, I would argue like running the unit dry. Simply put the grease does not cover or replenish at the points of contact within the unit like Hy-tran would. As an engineer who has worked for SKF I can tell you that this application would not get an approval from the engineering department, lol.
When I redid my grandfather's 71 it was bad. When I drained the unit there was a little water and oil in it and lots of bearing piece like the raceway etc. He had ran the unit dry for quite sometime.
It's tough to beat a manual but, I have found that I really like my 169 with the Johnson Loader on it. I have never had an issue with anything on it. Those things are built like battleships.
Bri