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So.. the 1650 wheel has about 1/4 turn before anything else starts to move. Front axle has stock pin and is about 25% to blame. I'm gonna walk down to see if I have the "big" bolt to help with that. I can't remember if there is an oil pan clearance issue with doing this type of repair?
But the gear box needs the most help. Maybe someone can chime in on some possible options for tighten it up without a total rebuild. I messed with 127 before with little bit of success. This is not a tractor I want to put any of my really nice steering columns in..... just want to snug it up if you will. Thanks

Dave, check your tie rod ends. While they all probably have some end play I'd replace the one that connects directly to the steering sector arm first while your engine is out of the way and easy to access. It and it's companion at the other end carry the brunt of the work load.
Adjust the steering box pinion screw. Note it's location and mark it's relationship to the steering sector arm with a scriber or marker that does not rub off. Loosen the pinion screw lock nut one turn. Turn the pinion screw in either 1/4 or 3/4 of a turn. Given that the whole unit is worn turning it in more than that may likely cause binding. My thinking behind not making a one half turn adjustment is that the wear on the taper of the pinion screw will wind up tracking right back into the same place on the gear worm. Does that make sense? Tighten the lock nut and note if there's any improvement. There should be.
Grease it. Find the zerk fitting and grease the hell out of it. Blow out all the contamination and water from the power washing. When the old grease starts pushing out past the felt cover plate give it ten shots more or until the grease turns clean and bright. Do it while the engine is out now and while you have the room.
I hate laying on the ground greasing those things.

Don’t forget to do the cradle up-grade while the engine is out!

Thanks Ken... worked on it for an hour tonight. I first drove the axle pin out .. and surprisingly didn't feel as much wear as I thought I might find. I have a new pin but I wanted to install a super bolt and snug up the frame housing. Man!! That took out half the steering wheel play.
My only question is will this fit with the oil pan? Next I moved back to the steering plate thing. This seemed kinda loose so I backed off the big lock nut and tightened the main nut a bit. That did help a little. After that I moved on to the pinion screw. This was pretty easy to mess with but hard to determine success or not. I actually lost track of the original spot...( Sorry Ken). So after running it in and out a couple times....I think I got it where it's best. So then I filled it with grease....no old came out and probably 15-20 pumps before new came out. I think it was dry.
So... right now it is better.... maybe under 1/8 turn of free play. Tie rod ends look good really. My only concern right now is if I have to I install a stock pin in the front axle...I know I will loose some of my gains. How about the "plug" cap on the bottom of the column... what will that adjust? I messed with that on another...I forget if it helps?
Joe....I guess I should do that. Right now is the time. Let me look that up and see what the specs are

Yeah I think it's probably gonna interfere with a deep oil pan but I guess u will find out soon enough
The lubrication guide says to give the steering box 3 shots every 25 hours but what the book don't say is that it takes a 100 to fill the chamber up. I'd go with turning the wheel a half dozen times and squirting it again.